Back to bleeding for a minute, Have bled my system numerous time, changing seals etc. and lately with the AP. One question, is the bleed the same with the variable ways suggested above, when there is an auto pilot in the system?
We attempted to bleed the sea star system for my 272 Sailfish and could never get it perfect. Paid the dealer $150 to bleed it with their sea star bleeding pump. Best $150 I ever spent. Perhaps it’s easy for others but steering is critical so I will always have the dealer/experts do it.Back to bleeding for a minute, Have bled my system numerous time, changing seals etc. and lately with the AP. One question, is the bleed the same with the variable ways suggested above, when there is an auto pilot in the system?
Did you bleed the system following the Seastar instructions? If you bled it by yourself, you didn't follow those instructions
The fact that the motor 'falls' over when tilted up means one of two things 1. there is air in the system or 2. you have a leak. It is also possible that the check valves in the pump head are dirty. In that case you can have bleed back but you won't leak oil. The valves may be accessible from behind the dash
So, do you loose oil?
On another topic. The trim tab should be adjusted so that the back end (aft) of the tab is turned a small amount to the right, maybe 15 degrees or less as a starting point . Bad adjustment of the tab may put extra turning force on the steering but it is not your problem.
If you can, lower the motor, set to straight ahead and try to rotate it at the motor by pushing on it. If it is springy, the steering system has air. If it rotates without holding the steering wheel and you don't oil leaking, you have an internal leak.
Sometimes if the oil is changed out, a dirty/stuck check valve may clear up but you have to get as much of the old oil out as possible and you will need at least two bottles of new fluid to refill and bleed in
I have the same issue, was replacing the cylinder the fix?I have a 22' GW with 250 Yamaha 4 stroke. The boat veers to port side, I continually need to steer to starboard to compensate. I have disassembled the helm and everything seems to be moving freely and re-bled the system, doing same thing. Also, I find that when I tilt the motor up and leave it in center position, when I return the next day, the motor has flopped to one side or the other.
5 star marine down in Florida that rebuilds these systems, thought it might be a cracked inner plastic bushing and o-ring, thus leaking from side to side. But Seastar will not sell them that part so can't be rebuilt. They suggested to buy a new one. I also tried adjusting the trim zinc, did not seem to do much?
In the meantime, I dis-assembled the Seastar Cylinder. I expected to find an o-ring or gasket mounted on a plastic piece centrally located on the shaft. It is not an o-ring instead it looks like a brass like disc sandwiched between 2 plastic pieces. I suspect that it works by having a close tolerance fit between the disc and the bore of the cylinder. Could this be worn to the point that fluid is leaking from one side to the other? I'm not convinced of that, It looks to be in good shape. I don't want to spend $600 on a new cylinder to find out that it is not the problem.
Has anyone else had this issue? any other ideas?
Paul
this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.I have the same issue, was replacing the cylinder the fix?
heres more recent thread. I just replaced cylinder. read This https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/steering-slow-to-engage.37685/I have the same issue, was replacing the cylinder the fix?
I haven't tried anything yet, this is a new to me boat and just noticed it today when taking it for a ride. Thanks I'll try this.this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.
In the meantime, do this test. With the motor down, turn the wheel in one direction until you reach the end on the movement. Put a reasonable amount of pressure , hold the wheel with the pressure applied, note where the wheel is ( use a piece of tape at the top center mark)and see/feel if the steering wheel rotates slowly over time. Do the same for the opposite turn direction.
Note that If you put a lot of pressure on the wheel it will turn since there are pressure relief valves that will open. You should be able to tell when you put too much force on the wheel.
I also assume you have bled the system and have read and followed the instructions for bleeding. If you bled it by yourself, without extra help or a bleeding kit, I am 99% sure you bleed it incorrectly
How long are you talking about leaving it sit before you would notice the creep of the wheel?this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.
In the meantime, do this test. With the motor down, turn the wheel in one direction until you reach the end on the movement. Put a reasonable amount of pressure , hold the wheel with the pressure applied, note where the wheel is ( use a piece of tape at the top center mark)and see/feel if the steering wheel rotates slowly over time. Do the same for the opposite turn direction.
Note that If you put a lot of pressure on the wheel it will turn since there are pressure relief valves that will open. You should be able to tell when you put too much force on the wheel.
I also assume you have bled the system and have read and followed the instructions for bleeding. If you bled it by yourself, without extra help or a bleeding kit, I am 99% sure you bleed it incorrectly
It could take a while. It all depends on how small or large an internal leak there is. One trick to avoid having to hold the wheel for a period of time is to turn the wheel to one side and hang a heavy weight from a rope tied to the wheel at a spoke position that is horizontal. The weight should be a few inches off of the deck. A heavy gallon can of paint should work (especially it the paint is anti fouling.How long are you talking about leaving it sit before you would notice the creep of the wheel?