I need new Batteries for my 228

Ryhlick

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I am needing to replace my batteries in my 228 as one of them will not hold a charge and I do not trust the other. I am currently running group 24 centennial rv/marine batteries which only lasted 3 seasons. They barely meet the specs for a 2001 ox66 225 hp motor. What are you guys running in your 228's.
Thanks,
Brad
 

Ky Grady

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I'm running Interstate Battery Group 24 cranking batteries. 24M-XHD, 1000 Crank Amps, 800 Cold Cranking Amps, usually get 4-5 years out of them. Readily available in many locations.
 
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DennisG01

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What "kind" of batteries are they currently? Starting, DC, DP?

How do you use your boat/batteries (with/without engine running)? That will determine what type of battery to get. The good thing is that for a "starting" battery, it doesn't take much juice to start that engine. Check your manual, but IIRC, the "spec" from Yamaha is only about 500 or 600 MCA. However, it certainly can't hurt to go bigger.

If the batteries you currently have are some cheaper batteries (internals), then 3 years is about right. If you're using a really good starting battery (Deka or Interstate, for example) for "deep cycle" purposes... that's another reason they're not lasting. You have to match up use:battery type.
 

Ky Grady

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Since he said rv/marine, I tend to think it may be a dual purpose battery and not a dedicated cranking battery. I'm strictly cranking for big motor or deep cycle for my trolling batteries.
 

mleads310

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batteries would only last me 3yrs on average, so I finally bit the bullet and went with optima blue tops last year. I'm hoping to get 5 yrs out of them. Honestly not that much more than the wm AGMs I've been going thru.
 

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I have 24DPs. 2 from PO in 2017 connected as starting batteries and 2 from 2018 at BJs wholesale connected parallel as House 12V.
Typical Lead Acid wet cell batteries (ie..cheap)
They were still going strong last season. We'll see how they made it thru the winter on the charger.
I agree 5 years tends to be the age of replacement.

the 24DPs started my 225 OX66s first turn of the key and now they start my Zuke200s first turn of the key.

I wish I had room for 27DCs for the House but the 24DPs have been getting me thru a night in the canyon.
 
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Hookup1

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Duracell AGM marine batteries from Sam’s Club. Group 34M and group 27M
 

Ryhlick

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The Centennial's are a dual purpose batteries that my local marine store carries. I am not thrilled with them as I had one stop holding a charge after a few months (replaced under warranty). We are going into the 3rd season for them and I guess I expected a bit more time. I normally have my engine on most of the time or off for short periods while we are drifting for halibut or rockfish. I guess I will look at the interstate batteries as I found a local dealer. I don't think I need a deep cycle, as I am not drifting with my motor off for extended period of time? I appreciate the feedback and again look at the Interstate Battery Group 24 cranking batteries. 24M-XHD, 1000 Crank Amps, 800 Cold Cranking Amps if you think this is a good choice?
Thanks,
Brad
 

seasick

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batteries would only last me 3yrs on average, so I finally bit the bullet and went with optima blue tops last year. I'm hoping to get 5 yrs out of them. Honestly not that much more than the wm AGMs I've been going thru.
On my 208, I got 7 seasons on the first set and will be on season 8 on the second but I am pretty sure they will need replacement this spring.
The batteries are group 24 starting batteries. In normal use applications, the killer of flooded cell batteries is heat so if you boat in Florida, all else being equal, your batteries will not last as long as up north.
In addition to heat, deeply discharging a starting battery will greatly shorten its life. On the other hand, drawing large current ( as when starting motors) from deep cycle batteries will shorten their life.
I suspect that dual purpose batteries don't handle either application very well:)
 

Ryhlick

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On my 208, I got 7 seasons on the first set and will be on season 8 on the second but I am pretty sure they will need replacement this spring.
The batteries are group 24 starting batteries. In normal use applications, the killer of flooded cell batteries is heat so if you boat in Florida, all else being equal, your batteries will not last as long as up north.
In addition to heat, deeply discharging a starting battery will greatly shorten its life. On the other hand, drawing large current ( as when starting motors) from deep cycle batteries will shorten their life.
I suspect that dual purpose batteries don't handle either application very well:)
I'm on the Oregon coast, so heat is not an issue. Sounds like I should just go with the starting batteries. Thanks
 

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If you use the same battery for both starting and for the House 12V then you should use a DP. Running a pure starting battery down with lights and a bigle pump and a stereo will shorten the life. Almost every Grady and almost every boat is wired to use the same battery to Start and run the House. "Marine/RV" Dual purpose batteries were designed by battery companies to do that well.
 
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Fishtales

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Make sure you have room for bigger batteries if you decide to go bigger.
Group 27 staring batteries is what I have. I have (2) per bank and (2) banks. This is the set up GW built with.
I got Duracell batteries last time from a firm called Batteries and Bulbs. I think they went out of business. There are only a few manufacturers that make the batteries for just about everyone.
My recommendation is to go with starting batteries if connected to Yamaha outboards and buy a good battery and then what is on sale.
 
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Hookup1

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I got Duracell batteries last time from a firm called Batteries and Bulbs. I think they went out of business. There are only a few manufacturers that make the batteries for just about everyone.
Sam's club has the Duracell's. They are dual purpose. Eastern Peen is making them exclusively for Duracell. Check out the specs.

I'm using all Duracell AGM's purchased at Sam's Club.

Group 34 43.10 lbs. 955 MCA 55 AH. $119.32
Group 24 52.40 lbs. 800 MCA 78 AH. Did not see availability at my store.
Group 27 61.55 lbs. 900 MCA 92 AH. $158.88
Group 31 67.35 lbs. 1,000 MCA 105 AH. $179.74

I used a Group 34M Duracell Marine AGM for my Yamaha F150's. About 9 lbs lighter than a Group 24 and 17 lbs lighter than a Group 27 with higher MCA rating but less capacity. Also used for my 4th battery for bow thruster, windlass and bait tank pumps.

I have a 4 battery setup on my boat. Twin Yamaha F150's. Each engine charges a Duracell AGM 34M starting battery. Both engines have a charging shunt installed. One charges a Duracell AGM 27M for house and the other charges a Duracell AGM 34M for bow thruster, windlass and bait pumps. The 4th battery is installed in the bow near the bow thruster and was not installed by GW. The other wiring in the aft compartment is standard GW.

Batteries installed for 3+ years without a failure. Remember that the newer chargers are "kinder" to the batteries. Pro Mariner 3-bank smart load balancing charger and a single Noco for bow thruster battery.
 
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Parthery

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As others have said, the Duracell branded batteries (available at Batteries Plus as well as Sams Club) are rebranded East Penn/Deka batteries, which is what GW specs.

I replace mine every 3-4 years as well...cheap insurance.
 
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DennisG01

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One of the biggest factors in battery longevity is (and this was mentioned above, too) is keeping them on charge all the time. Not a cheapie "trickle charger", but a "smart charger". Pro Mariner is a great choice. I've been in the business for 35 years and I've found that day boats (no charger built in or access to electric) tend to get 3 to 5 years out of batteries while cruisers tend to get 5 to 7 years. The big difference there is not "use" (since cruisers will actually use the batteries harder), but that cruisers are always plugged in when back at port. Whereas day boats sit on the trailer 90% of the time not being charged.

As I noted above, though, OX66 engines are not electric-hungry. They start very easily and the spec for minimum battery req's (from Yamaha) is actually quite low. But it never hurts to go bigger. That's for starting and non-intensive battery use when the engine isn't running, of course.
 

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The old battery charger that was on my 1997 Grady worked but didn't charge efficiently. It would cook the water out over time. These style chargers reduced battery life.

The ProMariner 3-bank charger that I use has been great and has improved over the years. I'm on my third one (they quit and were light out). Installed latest one two years ago. Fuse holders are finally working (not burning up). Bank shifts output to put more amps on the battery that needs it. Finishing charge. Trickle charges of maintain. Using Duracell AGM's.

My boat sits for long periods. Last few years boat was use for less than a month in NJ and two months in FL. Always on the charger on the dock or trailer.
 

Ryhlick

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One of the biggest factors in battery longevity is (and this was mentioned above, too) is keeping them on charge all the time. Not a cheapie "trickle charger", but a "smart charger". Pro Mariner is a great choice. I've been in the business for 35 years and I've found that day boats (no charger built in or access to electric) tend to get 3 to 5 years out of batteries while cruisers tend to get 5 to 7 years. The big difference there is not "use" (since cruisers will actually use the batteries harder), but that cruisers are always plugged in when back at port. Whereas day boats sit on the trailer 90% of the time not being charged.

As I noted above, though, OX66 engines are not electric-hungry. They start very easily and the spec for minimum battery req's (from Yamaha) is actually quite low. But it never hurts to go bigger. That's for starting and non-intensive battery use when the engine isn't running, of course.
Appreciate your insight on this. What are your thoughts on a solar battery maintainer, good or bad? Thanks
 

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Probably not practical for your boat.
Your maintenance charging requirements are determined by your usage profile. When the boat is at rest with no to very little discharge, the batteries should stay sufficiently charged for a fairly long time. If you have more current drain, the story will be different. For example if your bilge pump cycles frequently, your battery will eventually run down. Some 'electronic' bilge pumps run every few minutes and can discharge batteries faster than a standard pump. If you have things powered up when you are not motoring, you can run the batteries down. An example might be a security system or some sort of monitoring system.
Batteries don't last forever either.
On my 208 which has two batteries, I top off my batteries before winter storage. I leave the batteries in the boat ( in the north east) and I disconnect the battery ground wires. My motor usually starts every spring. If it has trouble or cranks slowly, it usually means it's time for new batteries.
 
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Ryhlick

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Probably not practical for your boat.
Your maintenance charging requirements are determined by your usage profile. When the boat is at rest with no to very little discharge, the batteries should stay sufficiently charged for a fairly long time. If you have more current drain, the story will be different. For example if your bilge pump cycles frequently, your battery will eventually run down. Some 'electronic' bilge pumps run every few minutes and can discharge batteries faster than a standard pump. If you have things powered up when you are not motoring, you can run the batteries down. An example might be a security system or some sort of monitoring system.
Batteries don't last forever either.
On my 208 which has two batteries, I top off my batteries before winter storage. I leave the batteries in the boat ( in the north east) and I disconnect the battery ground wires. My motor usually starts every spring. If it has trouble or cranks slowly, it usually means it's time for new batteries.
Great, that answers my question. I keep my boat out of the water with no draw on the batteries. I have the ACR breaker that I trip so I think in theory there is not draw. Battery charge has not been an issue until the one died.
 

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I am right in the middle of a complete redo of my 96 Islander, it had a single 300 hp and I upped it to twin 175s, So I needed to up the battery power, after checking out a variety of options I decided I wanted AGM batteries, of course they are the most expensive, I was already shoveling cash at this , so I figured what the hay, I did manage to save some, quite a lot, by buying at a local O’Reillys auto parts 3 Marine/ RV group 34 AGM ‘s for $519
at most any other it would be $900- $1200
Granted they may not last 10 years , but 3-5 years is fine with me