Lorance HDS 7 - older model

[sturgstev]

I have an '2004 - 228 and thanks to everyone on here for guideance.

I am no DIU'er but do try my best.

Just had the 250 Suzuki serviced and had them replace the scuppers based on advice here - they have been the same ones since i have had this sled for the past ten years. Maybe never replaced.

The tansducer for the HDS 7 was replaced last year as it broke off and would lose reading at about 15mph. The reading problem has beed going on for years.. When it was repaired I would get the readings at all speeds but that did not last long.

At this years service they just cleaned the transducer and I hoped it would get good readings but on the way back to the marina the same thing happened again - no readings above 15 mph.

Perhaps this is a grounding issue, corusion issue or from the outboard.

I was going to replace the unit with the one Mustange65 has last year but really do not need a different unit for help with finding the fish. Just need readings to stay out of the mud.

Appreciate any thoughts about the hds - 7

thanks so much.

steve

 

[glacierbaze]

You probably have the 83/200 skimmer transducer, which you can pick up brand new on eBay for less than $50.

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[seasick]

The model of the transducer would help but if it is the original model included with the HDS (gen 1) package, there are things to check that will cause the loss of bottom.
The first is the alignment of the transducer's bottom relative to the hull bottom. I don't remember exactly what the spec is, but the bottom of the transducer has to be lower than the bottom of the hull by a small amount. If the transom rises out of the water when getting on plane or when trim tabs are used, the bottom of the transducer can be raised out of the water or just breaking the surface.
One one of my boats, I have the HDS 5 with the original model transducer ( replaced 3 times over the years). In order ti hold bottom, the transducer has to be angled down ( the aft-most end lower than the forward edge) It seems counterintuitive but that is what is needed, the transducer to sort of aim forward instead of straight down.

A third possibility are bubbles caused by turbulence. Turbulence can be caused by a lot of things like a water scoop under the hull or a chine.

My HDS also can not only loose bottom in some conditions but also will not regain bottom when the condition stops if I have the sonar set for AUTO sensitivity. Like wise at shallow depths. if the sensitivity is too high, reflections from the surface can confuse its bottom detection.

 

[sturgstev]

Thank you both for the information. The transducer has been replaced twice and the same result occurred with loss of the bottom.

I think the transducer is lower that the hull - hard to know as its located below the platform and boat is always in the water.

The December 2021 replacement transducer had a seriel number - 14273965 - cost was $ 129.99 on the invoice. I and sure its higher that I could buy one myself.

I have no objection on acquiring a Garmin unit like Mustang65 has and wonder if the loss of the bottom will be any different with an ubdated depth finder.

Many thanks

steve

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

No depth finder will read well when installed wrong.
As seasick already mentioned, your problem is most likely the transducer position,
either too high or too low or behind a water pickup or any other thing sticking out of the hull.

To check how the transducer is installed you will need to pull the boat, also with a trailer to see and have access to the stern.

Not sure what transducer you have, but it is a common error to install skimmer type transducers too low and then the too low bracket create turbulence and/or bubbles as skimmer type transducers need to skim the water surface and not being submerged as a non skimmer one.

If you wanna keep your HDS then do that first to check if relocation/lower/raise the transducer will eliminate your problem what I consider as most likely.
Glueing a Transom Saver on the transom gives you the possibility to adjust the transducers position and height without drilling in the transom and that makes it a good solution for fine-tuning a transducer location.
Should you opt for a new device then the transducer must be installed correctly, therweise you will have the same problem again.

Chris

 

[sturgstev]

306Bimini

Thank you so much

Steve

 

[glacierbaze]

When you have replaced previous transducers, how long did they work correctly?

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Honestly I never had a transducer wear out.
I had back in 2000 a B66 transducer loosing the complete ceramic block out of the SS housing for unknown reasons and had to replace it.
The longest living transducer I had and I know of was a a Garmin Transom mount from 2008 on and Humminbird one what is from 2003 still in use by new owner.
All other transducers I had worked flawless for many years and I sold the boat before they stopped working.

You asked also about the HDS-7; I don't know the HDS series, but my buddy has a Elite 9 Ti2 and I find it a horrible device.
Bus as you need it only for staying out of the mud it will do the trick and I see no reason the change the whole setup you have.
First check to get the transducer installed right, if that should not be possible then consider a new transducer of change the whole system.
Transom mounted are/can be a pita to install and may need several attempts to make them work right, that's why I suggest to install first a transom saver.
Chris

 

[seasick]

When you have replaced previous transducers, how long did they work correctly?

I have owned that boat it for 16 years. In that time I have replaced the transducer twice, or three total including the one it originally had. The first swap was due to a change from Garmin to Lowrance. The second one broke off at the bracket pivot ( and I know how that happened).
The third failure was interesting. The case swelled and broke its seal. Water intrusion and winter freeze probably killed it. I would call that product failure.
These are relatively simple transducers and cost under $100 (maybe closer to $60.)
That said, it's not the cost, it's pulling the new cable!!

 

[glacierbaze]

OP said that his had been replaced twice, so the question was really for him. Run an extension cable in the PVC rigging tube once, then change transducers with the connection aft.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Now it's clearer

The transdcucer cable should not be run in the rigging tube and as far as possible from any other cables to avoid interference.
Best is to run it in a own hose or conduit, in my Boston Whaler I ruined the transducer cable inside a flexible conduit over the fuel tank, but it depends on the boat and how a separate cable could be run.
Chris

 

[sturgstev]

The transducer was replaced (it broke off then) in December 2021 and on the way back from the mechanic to my marina I took a picture with my iphone which i still have that showed a reading at 150 feet.

I recall that this depth lasted just a little while and then returned to the same problem.

I watched a video of the Lorance HDS 7 installation ( I have an 8) and it said the transducer setting should be - HST-WSBL/HST-WSU - what is saw yesterday was something else - 200/50 - I think it should 200/83.

The video also said to switch the unit to shallow - i will look for this as well today.

I will switch the setting today and do another test run.

I keep thinking this is a corousion issue and not enought power is going to the transducer.

Thanks everyone so much.

steve

 

[sturgstev]

I am going to look at the transducer cable to the unit to see it it shows the code for the transducer that was installed.

steve

 

[Barefoot1]

I have an HDS 7 that I installed in my 192 in 2011. I used epoxy to attach the transducer in the bottom of the bilge. Has worked fine ever since.

 

[glacierbaze]

It won't be printed on the cable itself, should be on a tag like this, within a foot of the plug.

 

[sturgstev]

thanks - thats what I ment to say.

heading out to Uncle Salty now.

steve

 

[seasick]

I have an HDS 7 that I installed in my 192 in 2011. I used epoxy to attach the transducer in the bottom of the bilge. Has worked fine ever since.

If the OP has a whaler, the transducer may not work well or at all if glued inside the bilge since the whaler hull and deck are filled with foam making a composite foam structure and not solid fiberglass. That said, I am not sure if the very bottom of a whaler hull in the bilge area is foamed.

Regarding the post about running a new cbal and attaching the transducer aft won't work wit the HST standard transducer sice the transducer uniy is hard wired to the cable ( unit and cable ar one piece)

 

[Barefoot1]

If the OP has a whaler

The OP has a 228 Seafarer, as stated in his original post

 

[seasick]

I did read that but forgot???

 

[sturgstev]

No can do - depth went out at 15MPH. Could not read the lable at the plug to figure out what transducer it is - wil lkeep at that.

I plan to monitor the meter and when the engine is serviced next year I will purchase a transducer and have it installed to see what happens.

As Gilda - said - its always something but this one is very livable.

thanks everyone

steve