Marlin Generator/bilge access...UPDATE W/PICS

[Gman25]

This issue has been nagging at me since I took delivery of my 300 in 06. After seeing the changes GW made to the 290,305,330,and the 360 access hatch, my wheels have been spinning overtime.

Has anyone ever tried to modify their deck above the genset? I was thinking using the same panal and contacting GW to see what kind of hardware(hinges and latches) they use. Then fabricating a gutter system made out of treated wood glassing it to form or maybe even starboard.

Any imput or advice would be greatly appreciated.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[megabytes]

I'm sure you can do a custom job. As it is, a full service requires the last panel to be removed and recaulked. Maybe you should get a close look at other decks with removable panels to see how they drain the water off.
Let us know.

 

[Fishtales]

GW reads the threads here from time to time - so lets ask them...

Guys - Any opportunity for an upgrade kit that could be installed on existing liners?

I would be interested as well - I'm sure many Marlin owners would be. If not, maybe some one get a glass firm to do one and post a link - I'm sure there would be calls for it.

 

[Hoghunter]

GW reads the threads here from time to time - so lets ask them...

Guys - Any opportunity for an upgrade kit that could be installed on existing liners?

I would be interested as well - I'm sure many Marlin owners would be. If not, maybe some one get a glass firm to do one and post a link - I'm sure there would be calls for it.

This was one of my biggest gripes with my Marlin. I contacted Grady about it and was told there was no upgrade kit and they had no intentions at the time of making one or changing the Marlin access.This was in 2007 and I don't think anything has changed since then. I now have the 305 so this is no longer an issue for me.

I know a guy here in Seattle that had a fiberglass guy fabricate an access similar to the one on the 305. They took measurements off a 305 to do the job. From what I was told it was around $7 grand. Lot of money for an access hatch.

 

[Stonewall]

I have the same issue on my 2006 330. I asked the factory rep the same question when I saw the new models with the hinged access hatch.
He stated they had no plans to retro-fit the previous models.

$7 grand? Hell I can buy a lot of caulk for that!

 

[Gman25]

From what I was told it was around $7 grand. Lot of money for an access hatch.

7K is not even a little reasonable for what we need. Im going to do some serious homework to see what I can come up with. A few hinges,building a gutter system with drains tapped right into the present deck drains and a water tight seal that will direct any water into the gutter and a latch to keep the panal down tight.

I thing anything would be better then having to cut the seal and unscrewing the deck everytime you want to service anything below it..Gen,strainers,general inspection, etc..

Anyone with ideas or input just voice them here...and anything we come up with WILL NOT cost 7K.. :?

 

[ElyseM]

From what I was told it was around $7 grand. Lot of money for an access hatch.

7K is not even a little reasonable for what we need. Im going to do some serious homework to see what I can come up with. A few hinges,building a gutter system with drains tapped right into the present deck drains and a water tight seal that will direct any water into the gutter and a latch to keep the panal down tight.

I thing anything would be better then having to cut the seal and unscrewing the deck everytime you want to service anything below it..Gen,strainers,general inspection, etc..

Anyone with ideas or input just voice them here...and anything we come up with WILL NOT cost 7K.. :?

you might try to just use the existing hatch with 4 compression latches and a very high quality gasket (vinyl or watertight neoprene). take a look at these

http://www.southco.com/class/e3-vise-ac ... tml?ctid=2 (the keyed style that don't elevate very far off the deck is what GW is using)

you could also use a couple of the pull latch style, but that would require a larger hole (still a lot less than $7K)

http://www.southco.com/class/m5-adjusta ... -7594.html

there are a lot of different types (and brands) WM has a bunch others. good luck, ron

 

[Gman25]

Thanks,Ron..Something flush to the deck will be a must. I was also thinking 3 flush to the deck hinges too. I have a few ideas on a gutter system and im going to climb under the cover tomorrow to take some pics and break out the drawing board..Thanks again.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[megabytes]

The Pursuit latches are similar to #2 but do not lock. There is a twist key to turn when pulled up. I wish I had looked harder at the draining issue.
It may just be a gutter with a rubber gasket on the lid to fit just inside of the gutter wall. 7K is nuts for a hatch.

The current access however is fine for many things including checking all the rear bilge area. A genset service however does indeed require the deck to be pulled. I also should note that while the 305 made bilge access easier, they put the batteries behind the genset. I have always wondered how anyone could check or add water.

Southern Hunter?

PS: While we on the wish list, I noticed the Puruit 315 has a dedicated house battery bank. In fact it is located behind the helm and completely separated from the cranking batteries. By far the biggest advantage to a dedicated bank is the use of true deep cycle rather then dual purpose batteries.

Since I know GW is listening, let me say this is one feature that might help entice me for that next new Marlin.
And we all know what the other is (think: cool).

 

[Gman25]

(think: cool).

Yup,that too is on my "to do" list. My thought was to pipe an A/C hose to the helm and install a blower motor to help push the cool air up.

Most likely will not install another A/C unit to cool the helm. The blower motor will be connected to an on/off maybe dimmer switch to control air flow.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[Hoghunter]

From what I was told it was around $7 grand. Lot of money for an access hatch.

7K is not even a little reasonable for what we need. Im going to do some serious homework to see what I can come up with. A few hinges,building a gutter system with drains tapped right into the present deck drains and a water tight seal that will direct any water into the gutter and a latch to keep the panal down tight.

I thing anything would be better then having to cut the seal and unscrewing the deck everytime you want to service anything below it..Gen,strainers,general inspection, etc..

Anyone with ideas or input just voice them here...and anything we come up with WILL NOT cost 7K.. :?

I agree with your assessment completely. I was constantly having to break the seal to get access for one thing or another. Hell you can't do anything but close the thru hulls with that round access port they have on it.

Good luck in finding a reasonable solution as it sure needs one. About the $7k there's a saying "there's a sucker born everyday."

 

[ahill]

Southern Hunter?

PS: While we on the wish list, I noticed the Puruit 315 has a dedicated house battery bank. In fact it is located behind the helm and completely separated from the cranking batteries. By far the biggest advantage to a dedicated bank is the use of true deep cycle rather then dual purpose batteries.

Does having disimilar batteries pose a charging problem for on board charger? I guess if house and start are on different charging legs it would be ok.

 

[Gman25]

I just took a closer look at the hatch and the lip it rests on. Looks like im going to have to trim a few inches off the access lip where the present fold down hatch under the seat is...No big deal. But the gutter is going to be a little more of an issue. Not the gutter itself but where the water is going to be directed to. There doesnt appear to be access to the self bailing overboard hose. So my thought now is to hinge the deck so it folds up toward the bow. (I called GW to get the make and part #'s of the hardware they use. Waiting for a callback). Then lining the lip with a soft rubber waterproof gasket or a soft rubber strip that would act as a water barrior not allowing large amounts of water to pour into the bilge.

When the hatch closes and its latched down tight it will crush the gasket creating a watertight seal. Before laying down the gasket I will seal the lip with a layer of epoxy so the entire area is watertight.

 

[ElyseM]

I just took a closer look at the hatch and the lip it rests on. Looks like im going to have to trim a few inches off the access lip where the present fold down hatch under the seat is...No big deal. But the gutter is going to be a little more of an issue. Not the gutter itself but where the water is going to be directed to. There doesnt appear to be access to the self bailing overboard hose. So my thought now is to hinge the deck so it folds up toward the bow. (I called GW to get the make and part #'s of the hardware they use. Waiting for a callback). Then lining the lip with a soft rubber waterproof gasket or a soft rubber strip that would act as a water barrior not allowing large amounts of water to pour into the bilge.

When the hatch closes and its latched down tight it will crush the gasket creating a watertight seal. Before laying down the gasket I will seal the lip with a layer of epoxy so the entire area is watertight.

that's pretty much what i was trying to suggest. just turn it into a watertight removable hatch. i think the channeling is over-engineering for a retrofit, you just need to get in and out on occasion, not daily. ron

 

[Stonewall]

If you decide to do it, please take plenty of pictures. I would love to see how you do it.

I just took a closer look at the hatch and the lip it rests on. Looks like im going to have to trim a few inches off the access lip where the present fold down hatch under the seat is...No big deal. But the gutter is going to be a little more of an issue. Not the gutter itself but where the water is going to be directed to. There doesnt appear to be access to the self bailing overboard hose. So my thought now is to hinge the deck so it folds up toward the bow. (I called GW to get the make and part #'s of the hardware they use. Waiting for a callback). Then lining the lip with a soft rubber waterproof gasket or a soft rubber strip that would act as a water barrior not allowing large amounts of water to pour into the bilge.

When the hatch closes and its latched down tight it will crush the gasket creating a watertight seal. Before laying down the gasket I will seal the lip with a layer of epoxy so the entire area is watertight.

 

[Gman25]

Im nearing the end of my project and thought I would post a few pics of my progress..

A few before and after..

 

[Gman25]

Well,im almost done with this modification and im very happy with the results. I decided to tap into the bilge pump hose to drain the gutter and that worked out well too. I put a loop in the bilge pump hose and tapped into the lower part of the loop so the water doesnt back into the bilge pump. The hatch is tight against the rubber gasket but I decided to pipe a drain just in case water does get through. If anyone wants pics let me know.

2005 300 marlin w/F250's

 

[el jefe]

That looks great and you have come up with a great solution for a original design disaster. Having just pulled up the deck to do a full service for the generator and replace the seacock pulls I kept grousing about why there couldn't be better access. Here is my question. Aren't you going to caulk or seal the space where the deck and the transom meet. I am talking about the 1.5 inches or so of vertical gap that exists.

 

[Gman25]

el jefe, thank you..I know the gap you are talking about. Quite a big space for water to pond. That was the main reason I wanted to install a drain...water is going to find its way past the panal and sit..most likely work its way into the bilge. If you look in the photos I installed the drains in that area.When the panal is closed it creates a tight seal but the white seal at the edge of the rubber strip should channel any water that gets through toward the stern and down the scupper.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[BobP]

GMAN, nice work, as usual the DIYers come to the rescue.

Too much of this and Grady will finally have to bite the bullet on the "no floor fish well" policy.

Looks like the BW floor service hatch!

If I may say, it looks like you cut out the crossover at the rear. I have the same crossover. If you did, it was providing the midspan support of floor hatch.

If not - forget what follow:

You may get some springyness back there and later sagging.
Especially if more than one person stands on the hatch at same time.

If such an effect after using, you can add more glass to the skin on the core, or better - add two pieces of 3/4 ply on edge along rear of hatch, glass/screw into core in, fillets, and 3 layers of 1708.
2 pieces of 3/4 inch, 2 inches high will do it, if you have more depth, go deeper, then only one 3/4 is enough. 3 inch tall will be much more stiffer than 2 inch tall, that's why one one 3/4 will do.

If you sandwich the 3/4s, use any glass incl chopped strand between, will make it stiffer.

LONG LIVE THE MARLIN !