New Battery Config for 265

[SkunkBoat]

Here's a rough idea of what I'm trying to do.
I want to be able to switch on batteries without opening hatches and removing bins on both sides of the boat.
Both starting batteries on port side and doubled house batteries on stbd side.

Utilizing existing switches for emergency combining. There are already wires from terminal 1 to 1 and terminal 2 to 2. This gives me a perfect connect from side to side.

I am putting BlueSeas miniBattery switches mounted under the gunnel (above Shore power inlet on Stbd side and washdown fitting on port side) thru a circular cutout. Wiring will be inside, knobs outside.

In the diagram connected wires are shown with a dot. Otherwise there is no connection.

 

[Scott D]

Have you considered adding a BEP battery cluster? I only suggest this because it will combine and then isolate your batteries automatically. This really works well for the setup your designing with three battery banks. No need to really access the switches as you just turn the on and off one time all day and you can’t accidentally run a battery down.

I installed this and replaced the original Grady switches and circuit breakers on my Marlin.

http://www.bepmarine.com/en/717-140a-dvsr

 

[SkunkBoat]

I welcome all opinions as I am still fleshing this out.
I considered using VSRs at one point and even looked at that exact setup.
I came to the conclusion that I can use the AUX Charging circuits from the Yamahas which are, in effect, isolators.
This means the House bank cannot be drained by a low start battery and charges separately from the need of the start batteries.
The Aux circuits are verified as working as of the end of last year.

Here I'm using the existing switches and wiring between them, saving $. Those switches will remain in the 1 position STBD and 2 position PORT unless a need arises to combine or alternate batteries.
There were different ways I could have configured the new switches but this seems to use the least amount of new wire
It provides for starting both motors and turning on House with two external switches. I also considered mounting them in the doors with the fuel switch/filters.
The STBD side can combine the house with start Batt1 without changing the position of the old switches.
The PORT side can be started from the STBD Batt1 by changing its old switch from 2 to 1

 

[SkunkBoat]

update to this post....DONE! No more opening hatches to turn on batteries. Inside switches stay on 1 (Stbd) and 2(Port).

Starboard Motor and House

Port Motor

new charger ProMariner ProSport20 Plus...3 bank charger

 

[SkunkBoat]

Just an update on this setup. I replaced the OX66 yammies with Suzuki DF200aps (added the aux charging cables to the zukes)
Its working out great! Having the switches under the gunnels is just fantastic.

We were overnighted at the Hudson canyon. Shut the motors off at about 830PM. Ran Led spreader lights, a 24" LED underwater light stick, VHF, Garmin 4208 and Echo94svx, dash illumination, Nav lights(not LED). The House is two DP24s in parallel. Volt reading on Garmin never dropped below 11.2V. We didn't start the motors until 5AM. Each motor has its own starting battery.

 

[Fowl Hooked]

Skunk, any pictures of how you situated the dual batteries in those compartments? As I'm in a slip on shore power I rarely switch them off so that part wasn't an issue for me though I'd thought of going to a similar setup for quite a while as I like the idea of an isolated house bank. But getting four batteries in there, adding the required wiring and finding a location for the switches (I was planning to use the BEP cluster with the VSRs) ended up being more than I wanted to tackle and in the end I just put a group 31 AGM on either side for better capacity and continue to carry a small Li-Ion battery booster pack in my carry on boat bag in case I do manage to run one down.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Skunk, any pictures of how you situated the dual batteries in those compartments? As I'm in a slip on shore power I rarely switch them off so that part wasn't an issue for me though I'd thought of going to a similar setup for quite a while as I like the idea of an isolated house bank. But getting four batteries in there, adding the required wiring and finding a location for the switches (I was planning to use the BEP cluster with the VSRs) ended up being more than I wanted to tackle and in the end I just put a group 31 AGM on either side for better capacity and continue to carry a small Li-Ion battery booster pack in my carry on boat bag in case I do manage to run one down.

They are side by side like the diagram. They use the origial battery trays except the new charger is mounted on the aft bulkhead and a battery has taken its place. The best part of the design was that I incorporated the existing switches and wiring.. Also key is that both start batteries are on the port side.

They are grp 24s like the original. No way to get two of anything bigger in there. IDK how you got a 31 in there!
Now that I have 4 strokes and lost the oil tanks down below, someday there may be grp 27 deep cycles as the house. But I went all night on the DP24s so I guess its not necessary.

One change I have is the Port motor on/off. With the new motor, the wire was long enough to reach the gunnel on/off switch. So the port crank lead has the on/off switch and there is a straight wire from port start battery+ to #2 on the port battrey switch. It does the same thing but now its consistent with the Starboard side.

 

[Blaugrana]

Any reason you chose to not go with the Add a battery kit from blue seas with the switch and ACR? Assume you wanted to save $ and use existing switches, but what about the ACR?

My setup is much simpler with 2 batteries and 1 engine but hate having to constantly switch between batteries especially with short drifts

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

Any reason you chose to not go with the Add a battery kit from blue seas with the switch and ACR? Assume you wanted to save $ and use existing switches, but what about the ACR?

My setup is much simpler with 2 batteries and 1 engine but hate having to constantly switch between batteries especially with short drifts

Amamola, In case this isn't clear, if you use an isolator to the House (either ACR or isolator harness), and connect the other battery directly to the alternator and only use it for starting and possibly bilge pumps, with the right switch configuration the only switching needed is on/off at the beginning / end of the day or possibly combining them in an emergency.

 

[Blaugrana]

Understood - I was not following how the house batteries were charging with this setup as I missed the AUX charge. I've been reading up on the Add A Battery setup and get it, but didn't quite understand how this works.

Definitely a smart setup...

 

[Joe arrigo]

Loos good. I’m using 3 battery switch’s and 4 batteries 2 house / 2 start looking for some wiring ideas!!!

 

[SkunkBoat]

Change to diagram;


Since getting new Suzukis I had longer wires and reconfigured the Port motor On/OFF to be on the FEED (Crank lead) to the motor, which makes it like the Stbd side and makes it more intuitive.
Basically, the old switches do what they used to do and the new Blue Seas mini switches under the gunnels act as ON/Off switches for the motors and House.
The old switches stay on 1 Stbd and 2 Port and don't ever get messed with unless there is a dead battery someday.

oh, the blue port charger lead should be on the battery terminal. Somehow the drawing got messed.

 

[seasick]

Not sure I understand what the Float Switch does. Is it just a selector of either motor aux charge feed?

 

[SkunkBoat]

heheh, no, its just the "always on " connection of the bilge pump float switches to +12V.
Those are supposed to be bus bars pictured.
I have not actually installed the red and black terminal bus bars yet.( one of those "bought it- have't done it" projects )
Everything goes to battery or switch posts right now

Aft is connected to House and fwd is connected to the port battery
yes, there are the standard blade fuses not pictured

 

[SkunkBoat]

So my batteries were from 2017 and I decided to be proactive and replace them all.
I shopped around and Walmart was hands down the best value. Autozone was a close second place.

I got two Everstart 24DC Deep Cycle to put in parallel for the House side. $80 each
For the Start batteries I got two Everstart 24XMS 1000MCA Starting batteries. $94 each

The first Walmart did not have all four batteries. Bought two that had 3/22 stickers on them. Then went to next nearest Walmart and got the other two with 3/22 and 4/22 stickers.
Walmart is one of my least favorite places. There is always a crazy line and a problem with a price or some crap. They did not disappoint this time. Guy in front of me they had to clear the register and re-scan all of his items...

 

[Saltyone]

Bringing up an old thread. I assume you made your own cables when you did this setup? What size cable did you use for the new ones, 2g?

 

[SkunkBoat]

Bringing up an old thread. I assume you made your own cables when you did this setup? What size cable did you use for the new ones, 2g?

Most of it is the existing 2 awg wire between the OEM switches. I think a bought a couple premade jumpers and I did make some new to reach the gunnel switches. I have a really good electicians crimper. Also, the new zuke motor cables were long and reached the new switches. The feed to the House breaker is 6 awg.

 

[Saltyone]

Silly question, as I haven't really dug into the battery wiring, but getting ready to. Do all 3 batteries have a shared grounding point?

 

[SkunkBoat]

yes all negative batt terminals are tied together by 2 awg
Its already there...

The diagram shows some added terminal blocks (Thick Black & Red bars) but you can use the battery terminals for all connections

 

[Saltyone]

Perfect, thanks. I plan on adding a couple of bus bars to rid some of the connections on the batteries to clean it up a bit. Can you tell me where they "tie" together at, or are they direct connection to each battery? I've seen where the negative cables drop down below the batteries, but honestly havent followed to the termination point.