Pulling Prop Shaft Housings

Ridge Runner

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Any tricks to pulling Yamaha Prop Shaft Housings *edited without buying the specific special tools? 04 F225s. I have some basic pullers and such, but haven't figured out how I'm going to get them out. Should I pull them before dropping the lower units?
 
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seasick

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I don't know what you are referring to as 'hubs'
 

seasick

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Sorry, I still don't know what part you are referring to.
 

wspitler

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I haven't pulled mine, but I am told it can be difficult if corroded, but that it can be done with standard slide hammer. Probably easier if done attached to the motor. Let us know how it turns out, I'll probably need to change that seal next year.
 

seasick

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Is it the prop shaft bearing carrier?

OK, I am educated now. I found a video but they do use a MarineTech tool
 

Ridge Runner

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Yeah, but I don't want to buy the tool unless I have too... I have been adding penetrating oil for a week. All day today have used a slide hammer and heat to the point the penetrating oil sizzles and smokes, no dice. Anyone?
 

Sparkdog118

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Before I had my special tool for this job, I fabricated a flywheel puller and a pair of trailer safety chain hooks and 3 links of the chain. (The left half is what the puller looks like when you buy it.)
 

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Sparkdog118

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I also had to customize heavier duty hooks to fit in the lower for stubborn ones.
 

seasick

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Great idea.
In the video I mentioned, the tech also uses special tools to seat the seals. Often you can find a regular socket with the matching diameter for a seal. i use the socket upside down with an extension inserted in the wrong end. That makes the tool more stable.
The hydraulic press is also a handy tool for larger bearings and seals. You can make a simple one using scrap pieces of metal or even lumber and a cheap bottle jack.
 

Sparkdog118

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Thanks seasick. I fabricated this tool back in 1997 before I had the $ to buy all the right ones. Lol. Been using the socket to install seals forever also. Had to make a tool for the Yamaha ds install since the seals are lip up on both and the tool needs just a few thousands clearance to navigate the seal in place without going off course and damaging the seal.
 

Halfhitch

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Ridge Runner, The way I see it.....there is 16 years of corrosion working against you so it will be unlikely a less than ideal tool is going to give satisfaction. There is also a possibility of damaging the gripping point on the housing so even the proper tool could have trouble holding sufficiently. I recommend that you either remove the leg and take it to a mechanic and pay him to pull it for you or buy the tool.
 

seasick

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Thanks seasick. I fabricated this tool back in 1997 before I had the $ to buy all the right ones. Lol. Been using the socket to install seals forever also. Had to make a tool for the Yamaha ds install since the seals are lip up on both and the tool needs just a few thousands clearance to navigate the seal in place without going off course and damaging the seal.
I had a similar issue and used a slightly bigger socket that I hand tuned on a bench grinder to take a smidgen off the diameter.
When I was younger and needed a tool, I bought it. Now at my age, I think twice especially when I try to make room in the workshop:)
That said, sometimes I see tools I wouldn't normally buy at a garage sale. The temptation is immense..
 
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Sparkdog118

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I have pulled a few hundred bearing carriers with that tool before I got the real one. You just have to know how to heat the housing with oxygen and acetylene without damaging the unit.
 

Ridge Runner

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Bit the bullet and ordered the tool... I already took a chunk out using a slide hammer, and broke a bolt trying to use a regular puller with chain wrapped.
 

Sparkdog118

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Wow. She is tight. How hot did you get it? Gotta use oxygen n acetylene on the outside of the housing 1 inch and 6 inches below the level of the prop shaft seal to loosen up the salt. If it is that tight, and you don’t heat it, you will crack the bearing carrier in half then you are really in trouble. Especially with the correct tool.
 

Bloodweiser

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Wow. She is tight. How hot did you get it? Gotta use oxygen n acetylene on the outside of the housing 1 inch and 6 inches below the level of the prop shaft seal to loosen up the salt. If it is that tight, and you don’t heat it, you will crack the bearing carrier in half then you are really in trouble. Especially with the correct tool.
map gas won’t work? Just asking most don’t have an oxy rig. But map or propane is readily available.
 

Sparkdog118

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Hate to say this but Map gas is Not hot enough. On the real stubborn ones, you get the housing close to the melting point. It expands the housing and melts the salt. Map doesn’t heat deep enough or fast enough to keep the whole housing hot at the same time. By the time you heat one part, the other part has already cooled too much.
 
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Bloodweiser

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Thanks
Hate to say this but Map gas is Not hot enough. On the real stubborn ones, you get the housing close to the melting point. It expands the housing and melts the salt. Map doesn’t heat deep enough or fast enough to keep the whole housing hot at the same time. By the time you heat one part, the other part has already cooled too much.
thanks for clarifying Sparkdog
 

Sparkdog118

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I try to explain the best I can. I basically tighten puller to 80% capacity then heat it. Tighten a little more then heat again til it pops.
 
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