PointedRose
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2021
- Messages
- 679
- Reaction score
- 212
- Points
- 43
- Location
- San Francisco
- Model
- Overnighter
Yes - and make it bigger than you think you need!Going to need a t least one large chase, to run wires and cables to the box. Have you planned that location? Would be nice not to have it in front of your face, as before.
Well, I was planning on having it come off the helm where the hard top was, go over to the corner and go up to the box from there.Going to need a t least one large chase, to run wires and cables to the box. Have you planned that location? Would be nice not to have it in front of your face, as before.
That's exactly the plan, so the curve runs it over to the corner and then up. No sight obstruction. That's kind of the whole point of this hardtop, I want to chase tuna and I want to be looking through glass.Inside the starboard window frame, and a smooth curve into the bottom, front corner of the box.
I have no idea how to do that. It's just a sheet of aluminum, the biggest is the roof. I'll ask Charlie.Lookin' REALLY nice. I'm jealous!
A thought... are you guys doing anything to help deaden the sound on larger, flat aluminum spots? Do you think it's needed? Like maybe the stuff that is put on the inside of car door panels? It really does make a noticeable difference - and it doesn't have to go all the way to the edge. Car audio installers sometimes use this stuff, too. I've had cars with and without this (from the factory) and there is definitely a difference.
It's easy - the stuff is self-adhesive and can be painted. It's certainly not "needed" - just a thought to pass alongI have no idea how to do that. It's just a sheet of aluminum, the biggest is the roof. I'll ask Charlie.
Yeah, that's how it was under the hardtop, I'm doing the same.I would run a good size power and ground up there, and install a second fuse block. Power everything in the pilot house from there. and avoid that hard-to-reach fuse block under the helm.
Careful... we may start spending more of your money!Yeah, that's how it was under the hardtop, I'm doing the same.
And by the way, I don't mind in the slightest the arm chair quarterbacking. This is by far the biggest boat project I've taken on and I'm doing it for the first time (hopefully last as well). I'll take people telling me what I already know on the chance that someone tells me something I don't know. Most helpful, keep 'em coming.
First of all, the roof is stout, it's 3/16" while the sides are 1/8. I don't think it needs any more strength.Careful... we may start spending more of your money!
What are your thoughts for mounting point reinforcement (backer plates) for hardtop items like the 360* anchor light, antennas, possible radar, etc)? Is more aluminum blocking being welded in... or maybe just use HDPE as the backer plate as needed?
Grady doesn't powder coat anything except the swim platform (and I believe Armstrong does that for them). They use some sort of epoxy paint and I am planning to do the same.Are you going to powder coat the aluminum? I powder coated the bracket for my pod to mount the extra long leg Suzuki I bought and found that the color furniture white is an almost perfect match to the Gelcoat.
Windscreen fixed, sliders on either side. I'm using Wyne (might have it spelled wrong, they are what Steiger uses).Looks great, will your glass be fixed or movable?