Getting tired of climbing over the transom of my 232 to flush the engine (I am on a lift). Has anyone installed a engine flush fitting on the inside of the boat?
Remote engine flush
- Thread starter Clark.N
- Start date
How fancy do you want to get? Reverso makes an automatic system. Or, it could be as simple as a short length of garden hose with an inexpensive hose shutoff valve.
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Simple and inexpensive. I know that GW has this on some boats but I don't know what components they use and MOST OF ALL I don't want to change the volume of water going through the engine when it is running.
Go to Home Depot and get a hose mender... cut a length of hose out of your home's garden hose to use for the boat... use the hose mender to repair your home's hose.
Also get a set of male/female end repair kits and a garden hose "end cap"... use the repair kit to put ends on the hose and the end cap to "cap" the boat end of the hose. Use a piece a velcro strap to secure the hose to your rigging tube.
Regarding the actual flushing, everything I've ever read in engine manuals says to NOT run the engines when using the hose attachment on the side of the engine. Normally you do it with the engine off. The hose attchment is a small hose (less water coming in) and there "may" not be enough water in some cases dripping down to the impeller. I've read that some have done this and all seems well - but for me, anyways, I've yet to feel comfortable enough to take that chance. I only run the engine when using muffs.
Also get a set of male/female end repair kits and a garden hose "end cap"... use the repair kit to put ends on the hose and the end cap to "cap" the boat end of the hose. Use a piece a velcro strap to secure the hose to your rigging tube.
Regarding the actual flushing, everything I've ever read in engine manuals says to NOT run the engines when using the hose attachment on the side of the engine. Normally you do it with the engine off. The hose attchment is a small hose (less water coming in) and there "may" not be enough water in some cases dripping down to the impeller. I've read that some have done this and all seems well - but for me, anyways, I've yet to feel comfortable enough to take that chance. I only run the engine when using muffs.
My manual says the same thing, don't run the motor on the flush port. That said, our local mechanic doses it all the time on Yamahas but then again, he is also the guy making a living changing pumps
That hose diameter on the flush fitting is really small and it can't see it move a lot of water.
I add a quick disconnect fitting kit that I find at Lowes. It has two different combos of male/female. One never gets used!
I add a similar fitting to my garden hose and a fitting to my nozzle. To flush, I just pop off the nozzle, unclip the fitting on the flush hose and plug in the garden hose. It's fast and easy.
Downside: The spring in the quick disconnect fittings only last two seasons due to salt air and water.
My manual says the same thing, don't run the motor on the flush port. That said, our local mechanic doses it all the time on Yamahas but then again, he is also the guy making a living changing pumps
That hose diameter on the flush fitting is really small and it can't see it move a lot of water.
I add a quick disconnect fitting kit that I find at Lowes. It has two different combos of male/female. One never gets used!
I add a similar fitting to my garden hose and a fitting to my nozzle. To flush, I just pop off the nozzle, unclip the fitting on the flush hose and plug in the garden hose. It's fast and easy.
Downside: The spring in the quick disconnect fittings only last two seasons due to salt air and water.
I do the same thing and works great. Haven't had an issue with water flow using the quick disconnect (I have forgot to connect hose back to engone before and ran boat for hours with no issues). I always run on muffs in the driveway (heard will burn out impeller without it and possibly worse).
I do not run the engine while flushing either. Since the 232G has a bracket and there is a full transom it requires effort to climb over the transom to reach the engine and hook up the hose. It would be much easier if a hose could be attached to the engine, run inside the boat for flushing. Just trying to figure out what should be used to accomplish this (valve,connectors). I am on a lift not a trailer.
Just trying to understand your situation... is reaching over the transom to to the spot where the rigging tube attaches the stern too far? Because you could velcro the hose to that spot. There's other ways of securing it there. as well. But that's the jist of it for the easiest/least expensive route.
You aren't going to be able to get the hose through the rigging tube. So unless you want to bring the hose over the transom (which would likely just get in the way), that means going through the transom... which means drilling a hole in the transom. Is that something you are willing to do?
Just did my remote flush today, called reveso since it didn’t add psi no need to purchase.
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Who is REVESCO? Could not find on web. I am only trying to update my 232 by being able to flush my motor from the interior of the boat. I am on a lift and climbing over the transom is harder as I age.
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Thanks, looked and not what I am looking for. Seems there should be some inexpensive permanent solution to flushing an outboard from inside the boat. A "Y" and valve to leave attached between the Yamaha flushing hose and fitting?
My mechanic connected a hose from the engine thru the wiring tube, and put these connections inside the boat.
So... not as "simple and inexpensive" as you first stated? I was going with the simple/inexpensive approach as I thought that's what you were after. And then you disappeared for 2 weeks without answering any questions!
Sure, you can do a splitter to hose inlet fitting(s) - that's just less simple/less inexpensive, is all. You can source that stuff just about anywhere - it's all standard plumbing. It was mentioned above that a hose was snaked through the engine's rigging hose... I mentioned you can't do that. More specifically, it's going to be a bear to do it. Silicone spray will help - but you also need to unhook everything from the engine and get the rigging hose perfectly straight... and you may have to pull everything out of it, first. Possibly sending a fish tape through would allow you to do without pulling the other wires/cables out. But if this sounds like a daunting task, you may be best to hire someone.
The other way is using another water inlet hose fitting on the outside of the transom.
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You don't need a Y, because the cap that the hose screws into when not is use is just that, a dead-end cap. Although, it would offer a nice way to support that end. Just screw a 6 foot hose into the flushing hose, and secure it so that it doesn't flop around on the engine end. To cap the other end(female), go in Lowes or Home Depot, and get a double male hose adapter nipple(about 1 1/2 inches long), and screw a METAL cap on one end, and plug the female end of the hose with the other.
Don't cut a length of hose out of an existing one. Cut what you need off of one end, and repair the 2 ends with replacement ends.
Don't cut a length of hose out of an existing one. Cut what you need off of one end, and repair the 2 ends with replacement ends.
Thanks, didn't know that the male end on the outboard did nothing but hold the hose. Feel dumb that I never looked, but my boat is hardly ever on a trailer. Your info makes it easy.
Used my remote flush Saturday, boat is on a lift much better from inside the boat. Twins are a pain,
order a couple of inlets to make look better.
order a couple of inlets to make look better.
Didn’t like how I did it the first time, changed fittings.
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