Replacing 1983 Seafarer floor/gas tank

[mac83]

Yes, that is correct. The floor is cored just like the rear deck. The floor is actually solid though. Yes, if I can get the cabin cut out in one piece, it will clear the helm...i'll have to remove the wood walls, they need to be taken out anyway and traced for templates for the new wood to go into. I'm leaning more toward cutting out the tub and removing it in one piece...get all new wood in the boat...if I can't fair it to make it look new, I may hire that part out....I can't imagine that it would be too terribly much to get that work done.

 

[BobP]

The liner is going to have to come out of there, I was figuring the easiest way to get it back in. While also being in the cabin to position it all in place and hold it there while resin sets.

even if a new main stringer can be bonded back to existing inner glass and a splice plate to where the existing one is good somewhere forward, the replacement bulkhead for the one cut out missing in the photos can't be glassed in on the forward side all across - liner is blocking access.

So one cut all along the perimiter, and another one is needed, how about on the top on the V berth (port or starboard) say inboard side of the storage opening? Is top of V berth cored? I douth liner can come out in one piece. Even when broken free , it's going to be jammed from lifting up.

Make sure you are making a sketch of the locations and heights of stringers/ bulkheads, measure the height every foot or so along length. I used a reference on the inner side (keel side) since the V is involved on the stringers. Then used pieces of cardboard taped together with packing tape to make templates before I made the real cuts. 4 x 8 sheets can go a long way if planning it out with sketches.

 

[ROBERTH]

Just bumped into this post. Gotta love the work. Might have missed it, but on the thru hulls, I got most all of mine that I could get from Grady dealer with help from Grady on what to order. They sent me the specs and drawing and then I ordered. Actually, the price was less than if I went out to purchase the Attwoods and other SS thru hulls. I only had to get 2 thru hulls direct from Attwood as they were the only one's that made them the size I needed.
Also, Grady had the floor drain fittings that are 90 degrees and flush that I could not find anywhere else.
Might save some time and effort if you just work those with Grady.

Got all my hoses from Defender for good price and support.

The tank, I sanded down clean, then used Marine tex epoxy over the corroded sections, then sanded the marine tex and then coated with Coal tar Epoxy. Look for other threads on this and you will find good info on that process.

 

[mac83]

I still can't make up my mind if I want to pull the cap or not... :doh: that last post has got me thinking. If I pull the cap then ill be able to easily put all new stringers bulkheads in. I'll also be able to put the whole new transom in at one time ( I won't have to cut each layer in different spots. If I don't pull the cap, I'll have to cut a large section out of the cabin to gain access to be able to put new stringers in and I'll have to chop each side of the port/starboard transom edges to get full transom pieces of wood in.

While thinking, I may get the tank covers done tomorrow. I've got them prepped, I've just gotta cut the new wood and epoxy it in. On the edges, some of the gel coat is cracked...needs to be sanded down and touched up. Should I get the new wood in and glassed in before I do any of that. What's the best way to touch up cracked gel coat on those?

 

[BobP]

Mike, gelcoat and other fairing work comes last, get your hull structural work started and on it way.
I see your concern with the cabin tub, seems to be it's looks, but if it is out of your way, it goes faster, otherwise like working up under a dashboard in car, been there done that.

You may have concerns on the precise height of stringers and bukheads going back if you didn't premeasure and record, don't be, you can be higher and then trim (belt sand down, or saw) later or if too low use glass pads. I tend to want to be too high.

 

[2manyboats]

Holy cow. :jaw In looking for info on replacing the gas tank in my '79 Overnighter, I found this thread. I know my transom has rot, based on the water that leaked out when drilling to install planing tabs. It is still stiff, but rot is rot. I don't mean to hijack this thread, but does anyone have experience with Seacast for transom replacement? I helped a friend with a transom replacement on a small bass boat, but it was pretty straight forward.

 

[BobP]

Why do you want to use seacast on stringers ?

Since the tank cover is off, did you check the main stringers ? How?
They are the the ones right underthe seam going lengthwise with the screws.

If there is another seam going across beam, same for under screws.

 

[BobP]

By the way unless I missed it, have not heard back from MAC.

He was considering removing entire cap.

I'd say cut thru cap say 4 ft forward of transom, pull of rear section then start rebuilding forward . Stringer material is 8 ft long, I used ply, even if longer he still has to make a slice joint, easy to do, then at least progress is made with making it back into a boat. It ges fats once started.

The cap can be joined together via glass long bevel, and ply plate under exsiting wood.

He wanted to save the gelcoat, we all do !

Once entire wood stringer grid and transom is done, it will end about 8 ft forward, he has plenty of time to consider what to do with cabin liner to get to remainder.

As far as remoing cap or portion of it, I've heard that the hull may get out of wack and the cap may not go back on.
Don't know if this applies to larger or smaller boats but he can check over at classicmako.com or the like. I've got Rabo by me may be helpful.
But I would check before doing it, since the cap keeps the shape up there.
Understandably. with the cap out of the way, much easier and faster to build the new grid and transom.

 

[mac83]

So the boat has been on a stand still for a while now. We've actually had a our second daughter and she is 4 month old now. I needed to make a decision on whether to finish this boat or get rid of it and get something ready to use. After must going back and forth, I've decided to get back on this project and finish it. It will definatly take me a little longer with another little child but I really want to finish this one and I love the boat. I think it will be perfect for our family once the girls get a little older and it'll be nice for fishing in the Chesapeake Bay. I've decided to make a list in order of what I want to accomplish and I'm going to do my best to stick to it. I figure it's the only way that I'm going to get it done! The list is going to go something like this.

1) Finish the rest of the grinding...not must left (i'm going to purchase 7' inch angel grinder)
2) Do the transom
3) Stringers
4) Bulkheads
5) Gas tank/ Thur-hulls/ plumbing (I really want to add SW washdown)
6) Foam
7) Floor / cabin tub


I'm still a little overwhelmed but I figure if I take it in stages/chapters and with all of the help from you all, I'll get this thing in the water one day!!!