SHURflo Diafram Pumps Model # 8050-204-133

[lazy grady]

8/3/24 Reference: SHURflo Diafram Pumps Model # 8050-204-133

I have 2 fresh water pumps on my 1994 GW 24 Explorer Stern Drive. They service the fresh water system on a lavatory in the cabin and also a shower on the gunwall/side wall of the cockpit. Last winter I emptied the water tank thinking I did not want the water to freeze. When powering up the system (pumps) this summer, the pumps continually ran irrespective of cutting them off at the switch panel. To cut them off, I had to pull the fuse. I note that when initially cutting the pumps on this summer, I did not have any water in the tank. I did fill it up but the pumps continue to run with no water coming out of the faucets. I have checked the switch panel; everything seems to be in order?

 

[wspitler]

I highly doubt that you have two pumps that provide pressure to your “freshwater” system. My guess is one provides raw water pressure to the washdown system and the other provides your freshwater to the sink laboratory and probably the transom shower station. My 330 has one pump for each raw water and freshwater. Two pumps on the same system would create problems since they are actuated with an internal pressure switch. Once they have power when the pressure drops the pump actuates. If you cannot deactivate the pumps with the switches at your panel, then you have an electrical problem. However, the fact that the pumps run continuously may simply mean there is an airlock, or they are not pressurizing for some reason. It could be a clogged filter it could be an airlock given the fact that your tank was empty, so bleeding may be required. But you should be able to deactivate them with the switch at your panel. My guess is you would have two problems one is an airlock that is not allowing your pumps to deactivate with pressure and the other is electrical problem or your pumps are hotwired or your switch is bad. If you are calling them freshwater because that is a label, then that may be confusing. There are two very similar pumps. One is designed to work with raw water, salt, the other is strictly a freshwater pump. The only difference between the two that I know of is internal components are more corrosion resistant in the saltwater version.

 

[lazy grady]

I highly doubt that you have two pumps that provide pressure to your “freshwater” system. My guess is one provides raw water pressure to the washdown system and the other provides your freshwater to the sink laboratory and probably the transom shower station. My 330 has one pump for each raw water and freshwater. Two pumps on the same system would create problems since they are actuated with an internal pressure switch. Once they have power when the pressure drops the pump actuates. If you cannot deactivate the pumps with the switches at your panel, then you have an electrical problem. However, the fact that the pumps run continuously may simply mean there is an airlock, or they are not pressurizing for some reason. It could be a clogged filter it could be an airlock given the fact that your tank was empty, so bleeding may be required. But you should be able to deactivate them with the switch at your panel. My guess is you would have two problems one is an airlock that is not allowing your pumps to deactivate with pressure and the other is electrical problem or your pumps are hotwired or your switch is bad. If you are calling them freshwater because that is a label, then that may be confusing. There are two very similar pumps. One is designed to work with raw water, salt, the other is strictly a freshwater pump. The only difference between the two that I know of is internal components are more corrosion resistant in the saltwater version.

8/3/24 How do I address the "air lock" issue? How do I bleed system?

I have a pump directly above a thru hull fitting with cut off. My thinking is it is a raw water feed to my wash down and bait well. The GW schematic for my boat's fresh water system shows 2 pumps. I have located both.

The switch panel at the helm has two separate switches; one for the wash down/live well and a separate one for the water pressure.

I am a trying.

 

[wspitler]

Interesting that you have two pumps for freshwater, so you have a total of three pumps, two for freshwater and one for raw water? There must be two separate freshwater systems then. The key is to make sure you have water to the inlet side of the pump. Determine which side is the inlet and which side is the output, open the inlet side and make sure you get a free flow of water out of that side. Reconnect and try it again. I assume that the pump connected to your thru hull is a raw water system or baitwell and the seacock is open. Normally the baitwell system, at least on my boat, is a separate raw water system. It may be the same system for your boat, but there will be a valve at some point to provide water to the baitwell or to the washdown system. If any pump doesn’t work then maybe the diaphragm may be bad in the pump. All of these pumps can be rebuilt and you can buy kits online. There are two parts that can fail in that pump, actually three I guess. The diaphragm which moves the water can fail, the pressure switch, which turns the pump on and off can fail, and the electric motor can fail. If your motor is running, then that one is not the problem. However, if the diaphragm has failed, it will not pump water and never build pressure and therefore will never shut down. If the pressure switch is miss adjusted or failed it may never shut down as well, but it should move water if the pump runs and has a good diaphragm. most systems also have in-line filters in the supply side, in other words, the side that the water comes into the pump from. Between the pump and the tank or the pump and the thru hull. Older systems, mostly the freshwater type, also have what they call an accumulator that is a tank that contains some air that reduces pressure surges. That accumulator will be on the pressure side of the system. The inlet side or Supply side is strictly gravity fed. Good luck!

 

[lazy grady]

Interesting that you have two pumps for freshwater, so you have a total of three pumps, two for freshwater and one for raw water? There must be two separate freshwater systems then. The key is to make sure you have water to the inlet side of the pump. Determine which side is the inlet and which side is the output, open the inlet side and make sure you get a free flow of water out of that side. Reconnect and try it again. I assume that the pump connected to your thru hull is a raw water system or baitwell and the seacock is open. Normally the baitwell system, at least on my boat, is a separate raw water system. It may be the same system for your boat, but there will be a valve at some point to provide water to the baitwell or to the washdown system. If any pump doesn’t work then maybe the diaphragm may be bad in the pump. All of these pumps can be rebuilt and you can buy kits online. There are two parts that can fail in that pump, actually three I guess. The diaphragm which moves the water can fail, the pressure switch, which turns the pump on and off can fail, and the electric motor can fail. If your motor is running, then that one is not the problem. However, if the diaphragm has failed, it will not pump water and never build pressure and therefore will never shut down. If the pressure switch is miss adjusted or failed it may never shut down as well, but it should move water if the pump runs and has a good diaphragm. most systems also have in-line filters in the supply side, in other words, the side that the water comes into the pump from. Between the pump and the tank or the pump and the thru hull. Older systems, mostly the freshwater type, also have what they call an accumulator that is a tank that contains some air that reduces pressure surges. That accumulator will be on the pressure side of the system. The inlet side or Supply side is strictly gravity fed. Good luck!

8/3/24 Thanks, I will keep trying.

 

[white diamond]

8/3/24 Thanks, I will keep trying.

I have to use a little suction on the spigot sometimes to get it flowing.

 

[Hookup1]

8/3/24 Reference: SHURflo Diafram Pumps Model # 8050-204-133

I have 2 fresh water pumps on my 1994 GW 24 Explorer Stern Drive. They service the fresh water system on a lavatory in the cabin and also a shower on the gunwall/side wall of the cockpit. Last winter I emptied the water tank thinking I did not want the water to freeze. When powering up the system (pumps) this summer, the pumps continually ran irrespective of cutting them off at the switch panel. To cut them off, I had to pull the fuse. I note that when initially cutting the pumps on this summer, I did not have any water in the tank. I did fill it up but the pumps continue to run with no water coming out of the faucets. I have checked the switch panel; everything seems to be in order?

OK. Take a picture of this fuse so we can see where it is? Are you telling me there are no other switch panels anywhere on the boat and that these pumps are hard wired?
Pumps on later GW's have a circuit breaker next to the switch. How about a photo of switch panel? Bilge pumps fused not freshwater pumps.
Why do we have a pump model here? You think its failing to pump? This pump is "running" and not pumping? Take it out and test it with hoses and a bucket.
Did you find the second pump?

 

[DennisG01]

Airbound/number of pumps/etc... that's a discussion for later. According to your first post, the only way you can get the pumps (yes, that's odd to have two pumps for such a small system) to turn off is to pull the fuse. With the info at hand, the most likely culprit is a failed switch.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

With the info at hand, the most likely culprit is a failed switch.

What switch?
The switch on the dash or the pressure switch on the pump itself?

If the pump switch of is pressure is reached then it's the pressure switch on the pump
If the pump has no pressure switch (what would be wired for washdown) then it's the switch on the dash

Chris

 

[lazy grady]

Interesting that you have two pumps for freshwater, so you have a total of three pumps, two for freshwater and one for raw water? There must be two separate freshwater systems then. The key is to make sure you have water to the inlet side of the pump. Determine which side is the inlet and which side is the output, open the inlet side and make sure you get a free flow of water out of that side. Reconnect and try it again. I assume that the pump connected to your thru hull is a raw water system or baitwell and the seacock is open. Normally the baitwell system, at least on my boat, is a separate raw water system. It may be the same system for your boat, but there will be a valve at some point to provide water to the baitwell or to the washdown system. If any pump doesn’t work then maybe the diaphragm may be bad in the pump. All of these pumps can be rebuilt and you can buy kits online. There are two parts that can fail in that pump, actually three I guess. The diaphragm which moves the water can fail, the pressure switch, which turns the pump on and off can fail, and the electric motor can fail. If your motor is running, then that one is not the problem. However, if the diaphragm has failed, it will not pump water and never build pressure and therefore will never shut down. If the pressure switch is miss adjusted or failed it may never shut down as well, but it should move water if the pump runs and has a good diaphragm. most systems also have in-line filters in the supply side, in other words, the side that the water comes into the pump from. Between the pump and the tank or the pump and the thru hull. Older systems, mostly the freshwater type, also have what they call an accumulator that is a tank that contains some air that reduces pressure surges. That accumulator will be on the pressure side of the system. The inlet side or Supply side is strictly gravity fed. Good luck!

8/4/24 There is a switch panel on the dash. It has what I think are "black breaker knobs" under each switch? How is it used and what is its' function? There is NO switch on the pumps themselves that I can see? My thinking is to "eliminate the switches" as being the problem, then address the pumps.

There is a fuse panel in the cabin that is labeled for each device (fresh water pressure pumps). These are "auto type" pull fuses in a fuse block. This is how I have cut off the fresh water system pumps.

Thanks for the help and recommendations. I will keep trying.

 

[Hookup1]

8/4/24 There is a switch panel on the dash. It has what I think are "black breaker knobs" under each switch? How is it used and what is its' function? There is NO switch on the pumps themselves that I can see? My thinking is to "eliminate the switches" as being the problem, then address the pumps.

There is a fuse panel in the cabin that is labeled for each device (fresh water pressure pumps). These are "auto type" pull fuses in a fuse block. This is how I have cut off the fresh water system pumps.

Thanks for the help and recommendations. I will keep trying.

This is very different than my 1997 Islander. Put up a photo of the switch panel and labeled fuse block.

My switch panel has a freshwater pressure switch and circuit breaker. Same with my washdown pump. Same with my baitwell pump. And bilge pumps. Let's see what yours looks like.



GW Owners manual for your boat/year is generic but describes how your boat is configured. It shows a shower sump (float switch) and a water pressure pump on the fuse block. Also shows another water pressure pump (shower) on accessory panel. I think they have the water pressure pumps for the shower reversed (both the shower sump pump and shower water pressure pump are probably on the fuse block).

The switches on the accessory panel have a circuit breaker underneath them. There is "water pressure pump". You need to find this pump to trouble why the system won't prime. Both are pulling from the freshwater tank and a break/air leak will prevent the pumps from priming.

That Shurflow pump (the part number above) should shut off when you pull the fuse. Probably marked "shower water pressure pump". If so take the hose off the output side of the pump and plug the fuse in. Does it pump water? If not make sure there is water in the tank and to the pump. Use a shop vac to draw water thru the intake hose. Check pump for clogs and a freeze damaged housing. Get the pump working with repair or replacement. You may need to do the same with the water pressure pump on the accessory switch panel.

 

[DennisG01]

What switch?
The switch on the dash or the pressure switch on the pump itself?

If the pump switch of is pressure is reached then it's the pressure switch on the pump
If the pump has no pressure switch (what would be wired for washdown) then it's the switch on the dash

Chris

Yes, dash switch.

Edit: If it wasn't clear from my first post... Based on his info provided, it has to be that.

 

[lazy grady]

This is very different than my 1997 Islander. Put a photo of the switch panel and labeled fuse block.

My switch panel has a freshwater pressure switch and circuit breaker. Same with my washdown pump. Same with my baitwell pump. And bilge pumps. Let's see what yours looks like.
View attachment 34799

View attachment 34801
GW Owners manual for your boat/year is generic but describes how my boat is configured. It shows a shower sump (float switch) and a water pressure pump on the fuse block. Also shows another water pressure pump (shower) on accessory panel. I think they have the water pressure pumps for the shower reversed (both the sump and shower water pressure are probably on the fuse block).

Does that Shurflow pump (the part number above) shut off when you pull the fuse? If so take the hose off the output side of the pump and plug the fuse in. Does it pump water? If not make sure there is water in the tank and to the pump. Use a shop vac to draw water thru the hose. Check pump for clogs and a freeze damaged housing. Get the pump working with repair or replacement.

8/4/24 My switch panel at the helm is the same as yours. I will go to the boat this pm.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Yes, dash switch.

The dash switch would keep the pumps only running if they have no pressure switch what i don't believe or would be odd.
The dash switch just open +12V to the pump and pump start pumping till pressure is built up, then pump switch of by the pressure switch on the pump itself.
Pulling the fuse for the pump will obviously turn it off, independently where the problem is, dash or pressure switch.

As far i understood there is no other solution to either access the pumps and verify if they have a regulable pressure switch and try to move it (if position allow that), otherwise pull them and test them on the bench. Second problem could be a broken diaphragm what let the pump running but not pumping due the broken diaphragm and so she does not build up pressure and the pressure switch does not switch the pump off. But to check the diaphragm the pump has to be pulled also.

Chris

 

[Hookup1]

The dash switch would keep the pumps only running if they have no pressure switch what i don't believe or would be odd.
The dash switch just open +12V to the pump and pump start pumping till pressure is built up, then pump switch of by the pressure switch on the pump itself.
Pulling the fuse for the pump will obviously turn it off, independently where the problem is, dash or pressure switch.

As far i understood there is no other solution to either access the pumps and verify if they have a regulable pressure switch and try to move it (if position allow that), otherwise pull them and test them on the bench. Second problem could be a broken diaphragm what let the pump running but not pumping due the broken diaphragm and so she does not build up pressure and the pressure switch does not switch the pump off. But to check the diaphragm the pump has to be pulled also.

Chris

I updated my post above. This year boat is different from mine. He has two freshwater pumps - one for the shower (on fuse block) and one for general use (on accessory switch panel). He also has a shower sump pump (on fuse block). My guess is the shower freshwater pressure pump is not priming and therefore not shutting off. Pump could be freeze damage or internal pressure switch bad. The general freshwater pump controlled from the accessory switch panel may or may not have a problem.

 

[Hookup1]

I reposted my updated from above...

This is very different than my 1997 Islander. Put up a photo of the switch panel and labeled fuse block.

My switch panel has a freshwater pressure switch and circuit breaker. Same with my washdown pump. Same with my baitwell pump. And bilge pumps. Let's see what yours looks like.





GW Owners manual for your boat/year is generic but describes how your boat is configured. It shows a shower sump (float switch) and a water pressure pump on the fuse block. Also shows another water pressure pump (shower) on accessory panel. I think they have the water pressure pumps for the shower reversed (both the shower sump pump and shower water pressure pump are probably on the fuse block).

The switches on the accessory panel have a circuit breaker underneath them. There is "water pressure pump". You need to find this pump to trouble why the system won't prime. Both are pulling from the freshwater tank and a break/air leak will prevent the pumps from priming.

That Shurflow pump (the part number above) should shut off when you pull the fuse. Probably marked "shower water pressure pump". If so take the hose off the output side of the pump and plug the fuse in. Does it pump water? If not make sure there is water in the tank and to the pump. Use a shop vac to draw water thru the intake hose. Check pump for clogs and a freeze damaged housing. Get the pump working with repair or replacement. You may need to do the same with the water pressure pump on the accessory switch panel.

 

[DennisG01]

I've been getting knocked off of wifi and my post, and subsequent edit above, may seem out of place because of that...

To better clarify... the dash switch supplies thie power to the pump. If flipping the dash switch off does NOT turn the pump off, then the switch must be bad. In other words, the pump (and subsequently the pressure switch) is downstream of the dash switch. So the pressure switch is inconsequential with what is happening.

To better clarify my second paragraph here..... Fuse/Breaker >>> Dash switch >>> Pressure Switch >>> Pump Motor

 

[Hookup1]

I've been getting knocked off of wifi and my post, and subsequent edit above, may seem out of place because of that...

To better clarify... the dash switch supplies thie power to the pump. If flipping the dash switch off does NOT turn the pump off, then the switch must be bad. In other words, the pump (and subsequently the pressure switch) is downstream of the dash switch. So the pressure switch is inconsequential with what is happening.

To better clarify my second paragraph here..... Fuse/Breaker >>> Dash switch >>> Pressure Switch >>> Pump Motor

Dennis apparently this model has two freshwater pumps. Go figure but that is what the owners manual wirelist indicates. One is in the switch panel and one is on a fuse. Also shower sump pump is fused. My guess is the two fused pumps associated with the shower are alway on unless you turn the battery switch off.

The dash accessory water pressure switch controls the general fresh water in the boat (second pump). This is the only pump and switch I have on my boat.

 

[lazy grady]

I've been getting knocked off of wifi and my post, and subsequent edit above, may seem out of place because of that...

To better clarify... the dash switch supplies thie power to the pump. If flipping the dash switch off does NOT turn the pump off, then the switch must be bad. In other words, the pump (and subsequently the pressure switch) is downstream of the dash switch. So the pressure switch is inconsequential with what is happening.

To better clarify my second paragraph here..... Fuse/Breaker >>> Dash switch >>> Pressure Switch >>> Pump Motor

8/4/24 My next step is to test the switches

 

[Hookup1]

8/4/24 My next step is to test the switches

I'm confused. What is it you are trying to fix?

The pump that is running that shuts off when you pull the fuse is not on a switch (well battery switch). It will turn off when the pump primes and pressurizes the shower water line. If you got water in the shower handle and it still doesn't shut off then the switch inside the pump is bad.