Just bought a 1988 sailfish 25 with twin 150 hondas. When towing it home with a 2005 dodge 2500 cummins it got scary a couple times and started to sway bad. Not sure what to do. I think the trailer is loaded too heavy in the rear, does anyone know where the axles should be in relation to the boat? Does anyone have any tips? Thanks
Trailer sway on Sailfish 25
- Thread starter Clockwork
- Start date
It definitely sounds like you don't have enough weight on the trailer hitch, I've always read that it should be about 6-10 percent of your total towed weight with boat trailers. It might take some trial and error but I would look into maybe moving the winch post forward a bit and/or the axles back a bit. I had the same problem with my 208 and it scared the heck out of me but moving the axles back just a bit cured the problem and it tows great now.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Yes, does sound like it is aft loaded. Many people do this because they are pulling with a 1/2 to. And think that it will be better on the truck. I saw a truck coming down out of the mountains in NC one time with a car on a trailer and he had to keep accelerating to keep it straight. Every time he tried to slow down the trailer was swaying from one lane to the other. It was scary to watch, I would not have wanted to be I. The tow vehicle.
I would be interested in what you think of the boat with the 150's on it. I just got a project 1988 25 Sailfish with twin 250's which just seems like overkill.
GP
I would be interested in what you think of the boat with the 150's on it. I just got a project 1988 25 Sailfish with twin 250's which just seems like overkill.
GP
While your checking the tongue weight and your balance points, make sure the axles are lined up straight with each other. My Gulfstream 232 and trailer swayed a bit also until a competent guy put a straightedge to my tires and found one further out than the other. He made sure they were perfectly in line with each other and the swaying stopped.
Gpappy;
My personal opinion is that more HP is better. I have never met anyone who wanted less power on anything. 250's sounds like a great match for a Sailfish.
Gpappy;
My personal opinion is that more HP is better. I have never met anyone who wanted less power on anything. 250's sounds like a great match for a Sailfish.
MagicalBill,
In theory I agree. Just not sure what a 25 Sailfish is rated for but my guess would be around 400 HP.
Will probably rebuild them and use them anyway. That thing will probably pull some impressive hole shots with 500 2 stroke HP.
GP
In theory I agree. Just not sure what a 25 Sailfish is rated for but my guess would be around 400 HP.
Will probably rebuild them and use them anyway. That thing will probably pull some impressive hole shots with 500 2 stroke HP.
GP
Good point; I hadn't figured that the older Sailfish models might not have a 500 HP rating. You'll certainly have hole shots and the capability to outrun storms!
Clockwork;
Now..Before I get slapped for hijacking the topic here, I will also add that it may be time and money well spent to have a trailer guy on his game to do a thorough checkout of your rig. Your sway may be one of several problems; It takes a well-set up trailer to tow a boat the size and weight of a Sailfish. I would guess your around 8500-9000 lbs.
By the way, I have the Cummins 6.7 and love it. is yours the 5.9?
Clockwork;
Now..Before I get slapped for hijacking the topic here, I will also add that it may be time and money well spent to have a trailer guy on his game to do a thorough checkout of your rig. Your sway may be one of several problems; It takes a well-set up trailer to tow a boat the size and weight of a Sailfish. I would guess your around 8500-9000 lbs.
By the way, I have the Cummins 6.7 and love it. is yours the 5.9?
Thanks guys it looks like tongue weight is probably the issue. I can actually pick the tongue up.maybe has 70lbs onit. Not even close to the 10% rule. Hopefully I can get it resolved, not safe currently. What blows my mind was it was supposedly towed up to astoria, or from san diego. I towed it from astoria to the seattle area and it wasnt pleasant.
Also take a look at how tight the bow is to the bow roller/stop. It should be jammed up tight into it. If it's a few inches back, that will affect the tongue weight - not enough to account for what you have, but it does make a difference. It's also good to have it snugged in tight to help "lock" the bow in to avoid bouncing/moving on the trailer.
How much, if any, of the stern is sticking past the last roller (bunks?)? The last roller should be within a few inches, at the most, of the transom. Bunks can stick out further unless the tabs would be in the way, and then it's best to keep them short just in case you forget to retract the tabs (auto retract helps, but don't rely on it). If you've got a lot of the stern sticking out, then all you'll need to do is move the winch stand, as noted above - you won't need to move the axles.
If there's no room to move the boat, check the trailer rating - it's possible that it's too small for your boat.
If you can post a few pictures, that would probably help, too.
How much, if any, of the stern is sticking past the last roller (bunks?)? The last roller should be within a few inches, at the most, of the transom. Bunks can stick out further unless the tabs would be in the way, and then it's best to keep them short just in case you forget to retract the tabs (auto retract helps, but don't rely on it). If you've got a lot of the stern sticking out, then all you'll need to do is move the winch stand, as noted above - you won't need to move the axles.
If there's no room to move the boat, check the trailer rating - it's possible that it's too small for your boat.
If you can post a few pictures, that would probably help, too.
I am curious as to what the height of the hitch is and if your truck has a lift kit on it and if so how much?
The more you lift the tongue of the trailer the more weight you transfer to the rear of it (of course you know that but I have to be a wise guy and say it
)
I had an '06 quad cab 4x4, loved that truck and miss it dearly.
I installed a 3 1/2" leveling kit and 18" wheels and it affected the towing behavior of the truck in a big way, and yes, it made my 16x8 Haulmark enclosed trailer sway even when loaded to the gills.
Hope you find the cure soon and can safely tow that monster!
The more you lift the tongue of the trailer the more weight you transfer to the rear of it (of course you know that but I have to be a wise guy and say it
)I had an '06 quad cab 4x4, loved that truck and miss it dearly.
I installed a 3 1/2" leveling kit and 18" wheels and it affected the towing behavior of the truck in a big way, and yes, it made my 16x8 Haulmark enclosed trailer sway even when loaded to the gills.
Hope you find the cure soon and can safely tow that monster!
Its a dual axle trailer rated for 10000lbs. It was about 3in from the front v stop due to a loading error but seeing as theres virtually no weight on the tongue I think theres more to it. Its a bunk trailer btw.
Clockwork said:
3" might have more of an effect than one might think, but I agree with you - it's not enough to account for the amount of weight you're off by.
Having a bunk trailer makes this a bit easier since you don't have to worry about the transom dropping down in front of the aft rollers if it is pulled on too far. Just gotta watch out for the tabs. Worst case, you chop off the extra length of bunks. Post a few pics if you get a chance.
What's your "wet" weight on your boat? And, do you know what length boat the trailer is rated for? Often times, this can be found in the model description on the trailer sticker... if it hasn't faded away from the sun, yet.
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
You would be surprised at the difference in how much 3" can make! :dance
Seriously, move it up all the way, and see if you can move your winch stand forward. I had to on mine. I only had a couple of inches to move the stand forward before it maxed out and it tows very well and smooth. It was definately an improvement. Before I did this, the bow would bounce all over the place and actually broke a 4000# strap due to the movement. I have since discontinued using the strap to hold the bow down and just have the safety chain on and ensure the bow it tight to the roller. On an alumimum trailer with this much weight, it needs the ability to flex and the strap was trying to work against this natural flex and why it broke. Have towed 2 years now since adjustments and no issues.
Seriously, move it up all the way, and see if you can move your winch stand forward. I had to on mine. I only had a couple of inches to move the stand forward before it maxed out and it tows very well and smooth. It was definately an improvement. Before I did this, the bow would bounce all over the place and actually broke a 4000# strap due to the movement. I have since discontinued using the strap to hold the bow down and just have the safety chain on and ensure the bow it tight to the roller. On an alumimum trailer with this much weight, it needs the ability to flex and the strap was trying to work against this natural flex and why it broke. Have towed 2 years now since adjustments and no issues.
ROBERTH said:
Hi Robert,
Could you please clarify what you mean by "I have since discontinued using the strap to hold the bow down"? You aren't referring to the winch strap, are you? I assume not, but just want to clarify in case anyone reading this is new to boating. A winch strap/cable should ALWAYS be used.
If, instead, you're referring to a secondary strap that goes vertically from the bow eye down to the trailer, well... that shouldn't have broken... either it was due for replacement (the sun's UV rays can do a number on nylon straps) or there was a defect in the strap.
Not trying to start an argument - I hope this doesn't across that way.
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
No problem, let me clarify further.
Yes, Winch strap is always to be connected to keep the boat from sliding back. Then I have the safety chain.
The strap that broke I refer to is the somewhat vertical add on that I purchased new and broke the second time I used it. Brand new 4000# heavy duty strap. Mostly, it did not just snap, it cut from the bouncing and movement between the boat and the aluminum trailer due to flex and highway motion over bridges and bumps in the road.
I put this strap on all my past boats, as it helped to keep them in place and I have seen several boats on the pavement off the trailer due to no straps or insufficient straps used front and rear.
However, a boat of this size/weight has more movement up and down and therefore, I have opted to not use a strap as it needs the ability to move up and down more. As I had mentioned, I had quite a bit of movement before adjustment of the boat more forward, but since I moved it forward a bit, the bouncing is much less.
Hope this makes bit more clear on what I was trying to say.
On the transom, I have 2 6000# heavy duty straps to keep it within the bunks and they also pull in a forward pressure to keep the boat into the winch stand. I usually replace my straps each year to keep them strong and fresh. :mrgreen:
Yes, Winch strap is always to be connected to keep the boat from sliding back. Then I have the safety chain.
The strap that broke I refer to is the somewhat vertical add on that I purchased new and broke the second time I used it. Brand new 4000# heavy duty strap. Mostly, it did not just snap, it cut from the bouncing and movement between the boat and the aluminum trailer due to flex and highway motion over bridges and bumps in the road.
I put this strap on all my past boats, as it helped to keep them in place and I have seen several boats on the pavement off the trailer due to no straps or insufficient straps used front and rear.
However, a boat of this size/weight has more movement up and down and therefore, I have opted to not use a strap as it needs the ability to move up and down more. As I had mentioned, I had quite a bit of movement before adjustment of the boat more forward, but since I moved it forward a bit, the bouncing is much less.
Hope this makes bit more clear on what I was trying to say.
On the transom, I have 2 6000# heavy duty straps to keep it within the bunks and they also pull in a forward pressure to keep the boat into the winch stand. I usually replace my straps each year to keep them strong and fresh. :mrgreen:
Thanks, Robert, for replying back. I will say that I'm surprised it broke. I've worked in the marine industry for 25 years and come from a boating family. Now, I'm not saying that to downplay what you experienced - not at all. Just that I'm surprised. Maybe a heavier duty strap would of been OK? But, then, on average, more people do not use that secondary tie-down than do. However, I will say that the "bouncing" you saw also happens with steel trailers - and sometimes quite pronounced. That's why it's so important to tuck that bow eye nice and tight (under) into the bow roller/stop -- it prevents the bouncing. Anyways, we've probably gone off topic enough, huh? Thanks again for posting that info.