Who has a walkaround Grady on a Venture bunk trailer?

[willbchap]

I've been fighting to adjust this trailer off and on for months now ever since the first incompetent tech tried to fit the trailer to the boat the first time (getting the hull damaged I posted about months ago fixed next week, I should give him the bill). I have adjusted the bunks and winch post the best that can be done, but can't seem to get the weight even. I have taken the entire rig onto a commercial scale, and I am withing load limits of the trailer. I called Venture last week (same day I took the picture below) and they suggested to move the axle undercarriage forward. I did, and it helped, but still needs more. I was also told by Venture that they suggest a "Target pad" to support the bow. Anyone with a walkaround on an Aluminum bunk trailer have a "Target pad" and how well does it work for distributing the weight on the trailer? Pictures? Bottom line, I don't want to buy anything I don't need. Thanks for everyone's help.

What they suggest I install.

This photo was taken last week. I have since moved the axles all the way forward with a little improvement. Notice the bow in the frame at the forward bunk support. I also realize I need a higher ball mount, but first things first. Tongue weight before I moved the axles forward was almost 1K on a 6.5K load.

 

[willbchap]

Forgot to mention, I have the winch post as far back as it can go. I understand that at this point I can't do a lot about the tongue weight, I just want to even how the weight is applied to the trailer.

 

[seasick]

What boat, what trailer and is it dual axle or single. It is possible that the trailer is the incorrect length.
What tongue weight are you looking to get and how are you measuring it?

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

My trailer has that target pad on it...it (the trailer is aluminum) and is made by Magic Tilt. If the economy was a bit better I would get a new trailer myself. The dealer equipped the boat with the trailer new and I have the same issues of how the boat is loaded or weight is carried like you. I was having issues on very steep ramps with the pulpit of my 228 hitting the winch stand, so Magic Tilt added a "cow catcher' with a turn-buckle which I like very much. However with that said, the trailer seems small to me and the forward axle seems to be loaded down more than the rear. My axles are torsion axles which is nice, but I wonder if they carry load differently than a standard spring axle?

Back to the target pads...they are nice in getting the keel centered when recovering the boat. I have no complaints there at all. They will add support to the keel, but I am not sure they will help you get the weight back or load the rear axle any better as mine appears not too, then again I have not seen my boat on any other trailer either to make a fair comparison.

 

[Parthery]

The "target pad"...AKA front centering bunks...make it much easier to load the boat. They will not increase capacity, adjust tongue weight, etc...

You need a trailer with close to 6000 lbs capacity (around 7000 GVW) for that boat....do you have the right size trailer?

 

[willbchap]

Its a 7100lbs gross trailer. At the scale, it weighted 6500lbs total. I am wondering if the centering pads or target bunks would take some load off that front main bunk support and reduce the bowing in the frame at that point, therefore evening out the load. The V pad thing there now is not designed to carry weight, just center the keel and keep if off a mid cross member. The target bunks or centering bunks apparently are designed to hold the weight of the boats bow, according to Venture.

It could be the trailer is a little too long for the boat. Venture says it is for a 24-25' boat. The bow eye to stern measurement on the boat is less than 24'. However, Venture said its close enough not to worry about it. Could my problem really be a trailer that is too long?

 

[Got Grady?]

You have way to much tongue weight and your stand is back as far as it will go. What I have seen done is a stand made and attached farther back on a seperate crossmember with the bow roller attached to it. They left the winch where it was and just had more cable showing than you would usually see. It actually worked and looked fine though. Supposedly it loaded easier too. Thats about your only option at this point to get the boat balanced better if you have already moved the axles forward.

 

[Parthery]

Its the wrong trailer for the boat...

If you can't slide the boat back far enough to get your tongue weight to around 7%, and get the weight over the axles, then you need to look at other options. Did you just buy the trailer?

 

[willbchap]

Bought it June of this year, from a Grady dealer. I don't think they are going to take it back.

What trailer do I need? A shorter one with either the same or higher capacity?

 

[gw204]

Post a pic that shows the @ss end of the rig. We need to see how close the end of the bunks are to the transom.

 

[Parthery]

The boat needs to be slid back....you can make the main bunks longer if necessary so that they still reach the transom, but if the winch stand is all the way back, then you are going to have problems on the front end.

My guess is perhaps a taller winch stand and longer bunks may work. But, as GW204 said, lets see some pics of the back of the boat and the trailer.

 

[willbchap]

Took these today...

This is the overall since moving the axles forward 11 inches (max the undercarriage would travel)

Stern shot

How far the bunks stick out past the transom, I moved them forward 3 inches from stock location to give max support under the boat since the winch stand is all the way back. I didn't move the crossmembers, I simply drilled new holes in the bunks and rebolted.

This is what it looks like when I put the jackstand down and lifted the tongue 5 inches. I think getting a ball mount with a 5" raise will be needed even if I correct the weight.

 

[gw204]

What's your tongue weight now?

If this is how your trailer looks, you can still move the winch stand back. You just have to be creative with it. What you need to do is make a shim to go under the bottom of the winch stand that is the same thickness as the part of the main beams that rest on top of the tongue. This will give you the flat surface you need to sit the winch stand on. Get longer u-bolts if you have to. Does that make sense?

 

[Parthery]

You could probably slide the boat back 3-4" and see some improvement. Your bunks would come within an inch or so of the transom which would be OK. Or, slide it back 6". If that fixes the problem, then look into getting longer wooden bunks cut to fit.

Does the main center tube extend into the "V" at the front? If so, can you mount the winch stand there? Thats how it is on my trailer....

 

[gw204]

What's your tongue weight now?

If this is how your trailer looks, you can still move the winch stand back. You just have to be creative with it. What you need to do is make a shim to go under the bottom of the winch stand that is the same thickness as the part of the main beams that rest on top of the tongue. This will give you the flat surface you need to sit the winch stand on. Get longer u-bolts if you have to. Does that make sense?

Sorry, should have been a little more clear.

If you can move the winch stand back, set it directly on the tongue and still keep it between the frame rails that's best. If that requires moving it back pretty far, you will probably need to set your bunks back in their original position and play w/ axle location again.

But if you only need a few inches, that's when you can use the shims.

The trailer under my old Sailfish was like Parthery's. Winch stand between the frame rails.

 

[willbchap]

It looks like I can move the winch post further back, but it looks like it's gonna have to be about two feet further back in order to bolt back down. Guess that's my next step. Seems like there isn't really a better trailer for this boat, I just have to make this one work. This might be a project I'll put on hold till spring if we all think it's correctable without getting a different trailer.

 

[Parthery]

I think if you put the winch stand inside the frame rails, as far forward as you can go, and then give it a try. If it works, extend the main bunks.

You can ditch that front roller...either way it's useless.

 

[willbchap]

Agreed. That roller was added by the tech who did the initial fitting to keep the keel from hitting that crossmember. Doesn't even come close anymore. I was wondering if I got a heavier duty keel roller and put it on the next crossmember back, where the v-shaped pad is now, it would be a good idea. Thoughts? I still want to try to get a little more support under the bow even if I end up with longer bunks and moving the boat another 2 feet back.

 

[VeroWing]

I would remove winch post u-bolts, slide boat and winch post rearward 8"-12" until winch post rear u-bolt is inside forward trailer frame connector point, and front winch u-bolt is forward of this point. You may have to add a shim plate to make winch stand bottom platform even. This should place winch post pretty much where it should be, relieve stress on front trailer frame, and reduce tongue weight adequately. JMO, Mike.

 

[Tashmoo]

I am late to this post and have not read every comment yet, but immediately I look at the deflection in the aluminum I- beams before and after you moved the wheels. Clearly the originally set up was way way too far aft as you can see the reduction in deflection after moving the wheels. I have an Atlantic trailer made by Ventura and my wheels are much farther forward than yours were. Also note in the photo there is no noticeable beam deflection in my set up.

As for the target bunks forward, I have them on mine and they help to center the boat on the trailer when loading but do squat for load support.