Windlass kit

Rustygaff

Rustygaff

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Location
Misquamicut, RI & Melrose, CT.
Model
Freedom 255
I am thinking about a windlass DIY install in the future. Does anyone know if one can purchase the split anchor locker hatch by itself? I am trying to avoid purchasing the entire kit because I am leaning towards Maxwell vs. the stock Lewmar V700 and ripoff price GW gets for the package which I assume is well over 2K by now.
I could take the existing lid and rip it down on my table saw but it would lack the side material where the cut was made and I would also have to recess the hinge butts where it is already done on the factory pieces. Thanks.
 

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You definitely don't need to buy a "kit" from Grady. All parts are easily sourced in the aftermarket, including the V700 if you wanted that one. The only thing you'll need from Grady is the 2-piece hatch - they are the only source for that since they made it. Unless you can find one through a salvage yard.

But... why not just bolt down your existing hatch and then install the largest deck plate you can on the stbd side of the hatch for access?
 
"But... why not just bolt down your existing hatch and then install the largest deck plate you can on the stbd side of the hatch for access?"
Strictly aesthetics. I like the clean look of the split hatch. If there was no bolster mounted at the front of the "vee" I would install a vertical hatch and simply mechanically attach and seal the exiting lid.
 
Rustygaff said:
Strictly aesthetics. I like the clean look of the split hatch. If there was no bolster mounted at the front of the "vee" I would install a vertical hatch and simply mechanically attach and seal the exiting lid.
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Of course, this is 100% a personal thing, but many boats have a deck plate for access to the anchor rode. Maybe you've already seen it and don't like it, but if you haven't google around a bit. The split hatch is nice, though, as it gives better access (bigger hole). I'm just afraid of what that hatch is going to cost... :shock:
 
The split hatches, brackets, hinges, and related hardware come in a little north of $700.00. One would still have to buy the windlass, bow roller, anchor/rode, etc. Not one of the cheapest projects for the floating deficit. :bang The upside is that I believe the newer GW's are pre-wired.
 
Yikes! I was thinking MAYBE $500. A deck plate and some stainless bolts (with nice finishing washers for the topside) might be starting to look pretty good? :) If you want a little bling, get an SS deck plate to match the windlass.
 
That's a lot of jing for it and then you need to factor your time. You may be able to get a GW hatch cover but I think the bases are molded into the deck. Good luck if you do it.
 
Yes. The lids are molded. The only workaround was already mentioned here. Reinforce the existing lid and install a deck plate next to the windlass for locker access.
 
Oh, couple side notes from when I did my windlass install on my Sea Ray. Foot switches come in REAL handy - almost a "must have". Another thing... the chain is going to, at times, slap at the deck between the windlass and the anchor roller. Get a piece of 1/4" starboard and cut it nicely to fit there... the same width as the anchor roller would look good. For the length... just use whatever looks aesthetically pleasing.
 
ocnslr said:
Please see posts #3, #6 and #10 in this thread: https://www.thehulltruth.com/boatin...ndlass-anchor-locker-issue-advice-wanted.html

I believe all of my comments there apply here, particularly about the required fall and the better performance of a horizontal windlass on boats with small, shallow anchor lockers.
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Thanks for the heads up. I have been going back and forth between a horizontal and a vertical. I like the clean look of the vertical but if there will be performance issues, I may have to switch gears.

I appears that GW mounts verticals on all their under 30' DC's. I assume all of the rode lockers are pretty much the same size and depth. Surprised that we have not heard a ton of complaints here. I honestly do not know how much chain/rode will fit inside the locker.
 
I assume the picture you posted is a 255? I'd have think that if there were issues with a vertical, that things would have been changed by now? But how much drop do you have (where the rode will drop)? My Sundancer had just shy of 3'. I had 300' of 1/2" 3-strand (NE Ropes.. the premium stuff) and 50' of 1/4" using a V700. Never had any issues. I did, however, make an effort to wash the rope once in a while to help keep it from getting stiff - along with keeping the bottom of the anchor locker clean, where the rope will sit.

You could upgrade to 8-plait which falls better/easier.

The anchor roller "looks" like a Windline, but I couldn't say for sure. It's possible that Grady has it custom made for them - my Sea Ray used Windline, but it was made to Sea Ray's specs. That said, I don't see (from the picture, anyways) any grooves/indentations in the deck where the roller has to be a certain width. There's no reason you have to use the "Grady" anchor roller. Get any roller you want - if it fits, it fits. Whether it's OEM or not doesn't really mean anything - as long as you're using a good brand, like Windline, you're good to go. Think about it - it's a piece of bent SS with a roller or two.

The only measurement that is really of any importance is how far the roller sticks off the bow... which you can adjust with the placement of the roller.
 
DennisG01 said:
I assume the picture you posted is a 255? I'd have think that if there were issues with a vertical, that things would have been changed by now? But how much drop do you have (where the rode will drop)? My Sundancer had just shy of 3'. I had 300' of 1/2" 3-strand (NE Ropes.. the premium stuff) and 50' of 1/4" using a V700. Never had any issues. I did, however, make an effort to wash the rope once in a while to help keep it from getting stiff - along with keeping the bottom of the anchor locker clean, where the rope will sit.

You could upgrade to 8-plait which falls better/easier.

The anchor roller "looks" like a Windline, but I couldn't say for sure. It's possible that Grady has it custom made for them - my Sea Ray used Windline, but it was made to Sea Ray's specs. That said, I don't see (from the picture, anyways) any grooves/indentations in the deck where the roller has to be a certain width. There's no reason you have to use the "Grady" anchor roller. Get any roller you want - if it fits, it fits. Whether it's OEM or not doesn't really mean anything - as long as you're using a good brand, like Windline, you're good to go. Think about it - it's a piece of bent SS with a roller or two.

The only measurement that is really of any importance is how far the roller sticks off the bow... which you can adjust with the placement of the roller.
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Right now the boat is sitting on the trailer and shrink wrapped. When I can get in it, I plan to measure the locker and see how much space I really have. I do plan on using 8-plait with probably 15' of chain to minimize any issues.
My best guess is that Grady was using Windlines but had them custom made (maybe high polished) to their specs so they could call them OEM. I looked at the Windline rollers online and could not find any that perfectly matched the one in the stock photos I have so it appears that GW had them modified if that is who was supplying them to the factory.
 
Yeah, there's a good chance it was made custom so like you said, it could be "labelled" OEM and garner a premium price. Windline make good stuff, though - I have used their products many times over the years with multiple boats and have never had a problem with their quality. I'd be highly surprised if you couldn't find an off-the-shelf product that worked (and looked nice, too).

Could still be a different manufacturer, though. But it doesn't really matter in the end.
 
I bit the bullet and ordered the windlass lids from Mike @ Taylor Marine. (made to order / 4 to 6 weeks) I went over to Defender Marine over the last weekend to get a first hand look at some bow rollers. They has some Windlines, Lewmar, and Kingston. I liked the Lewmars. They were finished well and appeared to be plenty stout for my purposes. I ordered the 66840085 which is 22" long with the dual pivoting rollers. I wanted the longer roller so I would not have an issue with enough material to achieve optimum overhang and still have enough length to properly bolt it to the fore deck. I will likely use a #14 DTX anchor with 15' of chain and 200' of 8 plait.

As far as the portion of the lid that the V700 will be bolted to, I do not know if GW reinforces the underside. If not, I might consider glassing in some marine plywood to give it some more "beef" to hold the winch.

I also managed to get into my boat over the weekend for a look see. I crawled around in the transom area around the batteries and behind the battery switch panel. I could not find any wire that was designated for the windlass yet I did previously see a bundle tagged up in the console area. I did some searching here and believe that I read that on some boats GW grabs the raw power for the windlass at the console and mounts the breaker there. The wire run from the transom to the console is protected by a 50A breaker that is mounted back with the battery switch.

Has anyone else grabbed the windlass power at the distribution box up front and mounted that breaker at the helm? I'm a bit confused sine everything I have read about this project is that the breaker needs to go near the batteries.
 
Rustygaff said:
Has anyone else grabbed the windlass power at the distribution box up front and mounted that breaker at the helm? I'm a bit confused sine everything I have read about this project is that the breaker needs to go near the batteries.
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The windlass I installed was on a Sea Ray that didn't have any windlass wires pre-run, so I can't directly answer your question. But, in a round-a-bout way... a breaker/fuse should be installed as close to "it's source of power" as possible to protect as much of the wiring as possible. Note I didn't say "battery" - I said "source of power". So if you are able to grab power from under the dash, that is where your breaker would go... if there's enough amperage available. Maybe look at the wiring diagrams (or fuse/breaker locations) for your model (in your owner's manual) and look at the windlass option wiring (if your manual has an actual wiring schematic). Compare what you have now with how it is done with a windlass added on. 50a seems like plenty of power leftover...

If you ordered the "windlass kit", does that mean you also get the split hatch? If so, that would have the reinforcing already there - if deemed necessary by GW, that is. However, it certainly can't hurt to add more!
 
Not sure if you trailer your rig, but if you do, one thing to keep in mind AFTER the install is loading and unloading the boat with the roller and anchor hanging off the bow. On certain ramps that were steep, the anchor, depending on your setup, can catch the winch and/or winch post. Mostly when unloading. Had to be mindful of that when I had my 258. Although, I had a pulpit which probably made it stick out a little farther. Just something to think about............
 
I would find out how Grady wires a windlass on your boat. Should be able to see from the diagram in the owner's manual. If you don't run a dedicated line to the windlass motor, you could run the risk of disrupting power to your electronics and things. The control power to the windlass relays, OK. But not the motor itself.
 
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