Boslaw, not knowing that the push button on your throttle was to disengage the shifter means that you have never tried to start your engine at any rpm other than idle. That opens up a whole 'nuther world of possibilities.
You need to take the cowling off the engine, tilt it up and turn to one side , so that you can see the linkage from the helm, and learn what the hell is happening back there. I have had the same set up on a '93 200hp for 10 years, and have never touched the manual choke on the motor. When you lift the electric choke/toggle switch, the choke plates slam fully shut, it's all or nothing, and you can see and hear them. To say that the manual choke is more aggressive is just wrong.
Pump up the fuel bulb, push in the shifter release button, pump the throttle a couple of times, and go back to neutral. Turn the key with one hand, and with the other, lift the momentary toggle/electric choke for a second or two, and see if it fires. If it starts and idles like it wants to stall, give the choke toggle a quick lift and release, and it will rev up. You may have to do that a couple of times until it warms enough to idle.
You can also try to start with the throttle advanced, just be timid to start with, or you will fire up at 5000 rpms.
A question, what are you doing during the 30 minute interval which precedes the engine not restarting? Mainly, are you consuming voltage during that time. Yamahas don't start on low voltage, although they will crank. Look at the voltage read out on your GPS when you shut the engine off, and before you try to restart 30-60 minutes later. If the engine doesn't fire right away, try switching the batteries to "BOTH".
My motor might take 10 seconds of fiddling with choke and throttle, if it has been sitting for a week or more, but after the first crank of the day, it will start faster than you can release the ignition key, with no choke. That's a motor that has not had one thing done to it in over ten years, other than bolt ons, like starter, impeller, LP pump, etc.
You need to take the cowling off the engine, tilt it up and turn to one side , so that you can see the linkage from the helm, and learn what the hell is happening back there. I have had the same set up on a '93 200hp for 10 years, and have never touched the manual choke on the motor. When you lift the electric choke/toggle switch, the choke plates slam fully shut, it's all or nothing, and you can see and hear them. To say that the manual choke is more aggressive is just wrong.
Pump up the fuel bulb, push in the shifter release button, pump the throttle a couple of times, and go back to neutral. Turn the key with one hand, and with the other, lift the momentary toggle/electric choke for a second or two, and see if it fires. If it starts and idles like it wants to stall, give the choke toggle a quick lift and release, and it will rev up. You may have to do that a couple of times until it warms enough to idle.
You can also try to start with the throttle advanced, just be timid to start with, or you will fire up at 5000 rpms.
A question, what are you doing during the 30 minute interval which precedes the engine not restarting? Mainly, are you consuming voltage during that time. Yamahas don't start on low voltage, although they will crank. Look at the voltage read out on your GPS when you shut the engine off, and before you try to restart 30-60 minutes later. If the engine doesn't fire right away, try switching the batteries to "BOTH".
My motor might take 10 seconds of fiddling with choke and throttle, if it has been sitting for a week or more, but after the first crank of the day, it will start faster than you can release the ignition key, with no choke. That's a motor that has not had one thing done to it in over ten years, other than bolt ons, like starter, impeller, LP pump, etc.
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