Search results for query: hatch caulk

Timely post as I'm hunting the same issue in my 2007 Marlin. I did a blast of bleach and allowed some contact time, and it ended up in the bilge after a trip. I'm hoping to find an easy hose fix. I hate cutting the caulk out of the floor hatch.

Yep, couple of posts about this on all the older Grady's. While the hatch is being repaired you might want to remove all the hatches, pull out the caulk and install with new caulk.

Super stoked! Just purchased a used 2001 265 Express. Very excited getting her ready for NorCal salmon season. There are a few issues that need to be addressed before putting her in service. 1. Removing headliner panels to get to hardtop stanchions located on foredeck? Water leaks into...

And here is another suggestion. After you get the hatch back in place, and screwed down, lay an endless loop of braided dacron (about 1/8" diameter) down into the groove, before you caulk. The next time you need to remove the hatch, you just remove the screws, dig down to get a good grip on...

Cut the caulk very carefully with a razor knife..I mean careful I about lost my finger with a dull knife this spring..two surgerys and lots of physical therapy, it will never be the same..okay I digress Cut, remove old caulk (acetone) cleans it up nicely, to get the last bits. Once done, boat...

Good call. The boat is new to me as of last summer. And it's 13 years old.... And it's currently in my driveway getting it ready for the summer, so now's the time. How do you reseal it? GE outdoor almond caulk? Grady caulk? Put a bead down before setting in the hatch, or after?

I've had that open several times, first time was when I replaced the holding tank. No big deal to cut the caulking and lift the hatch. If you're unsure of doing that one, then I would guess you have never done the same to the large hatch that covers your fuel tank. Strongly recommended that...

I'm thinking about doing the same thing. Putting hinges on the forward end and a latch at the rear. Doesn't look like it'll raise all the way up, but should be enough for access. Plus it'll look better. I'm nervous to cut the caulk and open it up... You go first! and post pics. It would...

"The bad is that water get's down there..." <<< exactly my point about a hinged and gasketed hatch door in that area. This is why I like my caulked deck plate. You can buy the exact match caulk at your local HW store. GE Silicon II caulk in Ivory. Once again - it's the wettest part of the...

I have a 2007 that was modified with the gasket. It has no screws or caulking and it looks great. That was the good news. The bad is that water get's down there and the hatch door actually has warped where the corners stick up and now are a trip hazard. I tried to replace it with the newer...

Thought I'd start a thread to ask owners why a Grady and your overall experience. I'm a two Grady boat owner (282 and 300) both were new. What I really like: - Proven hull design. The 300 ride feels like a much bigger boat and 300 to 282 was like moving from a yacht from a boat. It isn't a...

84Offshore, I have a 83 Tournament 24. Both of my hatches have been redone. Yours look great. The only thing I did different was to not put the screws back in to hold it down. Fill these holes with 5200 and put the hatch back in place and caulk with a marine caulk that will not mildue. Put...

Interesting idea but hopefully he will only have to open that panel once:) Regarding 4200: I mentioned to use it on the screw threads and under the screw heads as a bedding agent. I do not recommend it as a caulk.

The tank fits nicely behind the gas tank in the smaller compartment area in the bilge. This is accessed from the square deck hatch with the all those screws. You will need GE silicone II almond caulk to replace the seal on the lid. Good luck. We primarily use the freshwater when we swim and...

Ughhh! That would have helped so much! I will make sure to use that tip next time around. Greatly appreciated. @Action_Jackson: I used 5/4 azek composite boards to secure it and give support to the hatches. It seems like the perfect solution since it can't rot and is every bit as strong as...

Nice job! Next time you re-caulk the hatch lay masking tape on the edges, it makes a lot easier.

put wax paper on the deck side of the joint and then re-caulk. The caulk will not stick to the boat because of the wax paper. It will, however, stick to the hatch. Remove the hatch, remove the wax paper, then you can put the hatch in with essentially a caulk sealed joint that is removable at...

I have a 2002 330 that I purchased in Aug 2011. It too was caulked in and the local service guy removed the caulk to do a service - he said that there was gasket material originally installed and it wasn't necessary to re-caulk. The hatch is secured with 3" screws that push into grommeted...

I have a 03 330 and feel your pain about the access plate. I no longer caulk my mine. I use a gasket material that fits around the access hatch. I dont even screw it down it fits pretty tight.This has worked verry well the last couple of years. I havn't had any problems with leaks or any other...

Ck is right on. That hatch caulk should be replaced every so often anyway. Give you the opportunity to eyeball things and see how those leaky pie plates are causing your senders to corrode. Not a tough job to replace the hose. Razor knife and wire cutters will help alot. In this heat...