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Water in the mid bilge area is a common issue with these types of hulls. The mid bilge often sits lower than the aft bilge and water will accumulate until it is deep enough to trigger the float switch or the bow is raised high enough to cause the standing water to flow aft into that bilge area...

The hose may be stuck, kind of 'glued 'to the fitting.. To loosen it, you have a few options. After removing the zip tie, use a pliers and gently rotate it back and forth to break the seal. Option two is to use a thin bent tool like a angled pick under the lip and then twist. If you have enough...

If the canvas, plastic curtains and cushions were left on a shrink wrapped boat that sat outside in the sun, I would expect a lot of baked materials. A word of caution: If you need to work on the carbs and you most likely will have to, do not change any of the adjustments on the throttle...

The article I read says that the props are a better fit for vessels like commercial ones with diesel motors. I guess I can see that as a possibility. It would also explain why we ( the Grady folks) haven't seen them.

I re-read the BoatTest article on the props an they sound great on paper. I have a few concerns about the test though; The outboard test compared a 'custom' Sharrow prop to a standard Yamaha SWS II stainless prop. There were significant performance differences but was the Sharrow that good or...

Four weeks is not a long time. I assume you have the boat covered. I have had very good results in reducing mold by using DampRid containers. One in the cabin and one in the head. This boat is stored all winter and will grow some mold with the DampRids but no where near the amount when no...

One big negative for the props is that on outboards, they can be a target for theft. Since most outboards are raised when slipped, it it easy to know who has them and I would imagine that there would be a 'market' for used props. Prop theft was a big issue at one time and still may be.

Well said. I would like to see an independent organization to do a apples to apples comparison.

The choice depends on how long you are willing to wait for enough batter charge to go out after finding out that you left something turned on after the last visit. In simple terms, the 36 amp is going to charge up the depleted batteries in half the time that it would take the 20 amp:) Are the...

If you don't want to or can't add add another display screen, you should go with a Garmin device. Based on how I read your needs, you don't need a high end system. Something like the GMR 18HD would probably be a good match

There is a discussion on those props somewhere on this forum.If I remember correctly, a lot of comments questioned the actual performance claims and of course commented on the very high cost I don't recall anyone saying they had them.

If the outside motor seems or actually does increase revs, most likely the prop has broken the surface of the water. The prop blows out, looses bite ( slips more) and the thrust is reduced. Now you have unbalanced thrust. In the case where the boat is steered to starboard, the port motor in the...

I did read that but forgot???

The earlier motor had plastic trim angle cams that often would crack and fail. Replacement cam actuators now are metal but as mentioned, you have to adjust the actuators. In addition as also alluded to, the sender itself is spring loaded so that the tab always presses on the actuator cam. As the...

The issue is that if you are going to replace the hose from the motor to the primer and the hose from the primer to the water separator flange, you should change the hose from the separator flange to the tank pickup and that is where things can get complicated. On my grady that section of fuel...

If the OP has a whaler, the transducer may not work well or at all if glued inside the bilge since the whaler hull and deck are filled with foam making a composite foam structure and not solid fiberglass. That said, I am not sure if the very bottom of a whaler hull in the bilge area is foamed...

To an extent, the fuel lines age faster when exposed to sunlight. So if your lines are encased in a rigging tube at the motor well and feel pliable and you don't smell fuel, there is no rush to change them. If you do decide to change, you should change the primer bulbs if they are old. Buy oem...

I have owned that boat it for 16 years. In that time I have replaced the transducer twice, or three total including the one it originally had. The first swap was due to a change from Garmin to Lowrance. The second one broke off at the bracket pivot ( and I know how that happened:(). The third...

The model of the transducer would help but if it is the original model included with the HDS (gen 1) package, there are things to check that will cause the loss of bottom. The first is the alignment of the transducer's bottom relative to the hull bottom. I don't remember exactly what the spec...

Personally, I would not buy a boat with a f350, even a gen3 (or is it called version C). I also am a fan of twins over one bigger motor on anything over 24 feet or so. Regarding repower, would twin F250s be sufficient? I think you might get a better deal on 250s. On the other hand, rigging the...