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OP states that motor runs fine at speed. That would eliminate a tank vent issue as well as clogged fuel filters. I suggested a fuel pressure test since it may be that a pump is weak but my gut tells me the issue may not be that simple.

I would check the fuel pressure check the fuel pressure

How long have you owned it? Do you know when t-stats were last serviced. If not a long time, it is possible that the previous owner changed t-stats regularly. Not changing the t-state is one reason why the bolts may break Does you 'guy' also suggest that you don't remove any other bolts like...

What kind of engineer were you? I am also an engineer but can't recall what the word 'MINT' means from a structural engineering point of view:) There are many videos on transom repair on the web. The job can be quite complex and in most cases, the outer skin of the transom has to be removed...

Since both pumps weren't working, there is a possibility that a ground wire problem is your issue since the ground circuits are often shared by multiple devices. Your testing checked juice and ground at the switch but the rest of the wiring was not tested especially the grounds. For your bilge...

Looks like it could be mounts for guides. What is the inside diameter of that box tube? Some guide tubing is 1 1/2 inch outside measurement. Your current 'receptacles' would have to be wide enough to insert the1 1/2 tube with enough room for the u bolts to hold it in place. Another option is...

Thank goodness. It was bugging me.

You both may be right. I assumed the wire was copper because it looked like copper when I sanded the break before crimping. I suppose that if stainless it may have some ferrous properties and a magnet may attract a bit.. I will have to check next spring.

hmmmm. The last one I had to reconnect was on a Merc and it was copper:) I would think that SS is a no-no for under water applications

It still doesn't make sense yet. On the breaker to the left, I see a thick orange wire that I assume is the main power feed to the panel. There would be a wire that connects to another lug on the breaker that goes to the switch. Can you see if that is the case? I understand the top two wires...

Yes it's stranded copper wire.

I LOOKED UP A TYPICAL WIPER MOTOR SKEMATIC AND THERE IS A 'PERMANENT' 12V CONNECTION TO THE PARK TERMINAL. oops, excuse the capital letters. The source should be the same circuit that feeds the wiper motor. In other words, the12v from the fuse or breaker block, is spilt into two feeds; one to...

So that makes me surmise that there is power applied to the park lead to enable the motor to rotate to the park position. If so, the motor needs power but you can't have power on the motor lead. So the park lead must get power from somewhere else. Maybe it is permanently wired to the accessory...

In addition, things cab grow, like barnacles' on any insulation. Since the wire should be bare copper, it will act better than bottom paint:)

Good luck with your search

I am not sure. Can you get to the connector at the wiper motor? I think you are correct about the solid orange. That is the standard color for the accessory feed. It should have 12v live on it whenever the battery switch(es) are on. It will then be pretty east to verify that the or/bk wire on...

It is a ground bonding wire. It should connect to one bolt on the anode and a bolt on the motor bracket. It is a bare wire, no insulation.

I just reread post 2.:) I guess I need to read more and scan less

Wind is a big issue but also snow and ice. If snow piles up, it may slowly melt, pool in low area, and then refreeze. Eventually that blob of ice gets bigger and heavier until either the frame or supports break or the cover rips. Shrink wrap is a love hate thing. If you go that route, make sure...

I think we all understand the process of buying a boat with no or a junk motor and repowering the boat BUT this is something new. I would call this a re-boat project:) ( Buy a motor and then find a boat to put it on!