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Seems to be a common problem with the ram that lifts the electronics hatch. It is located behind the cabin electrical panel almost amidship. Make sure the circuit breaker or fuse associated with that switch is not popped. Otherwise access the ram from underneath and check the wiring and replace...

I believe the neutral switch, in any position other than neutral, will not allow the engine to crank at all. If it cranks, but the ECM/ignition is grounded out, the engine will crank but will not start. Seems the problem is that the ignition or kill switch wiring is in series rather than...

I may not understand what you are doing, but if your are splicing in a section of wire, I would not solder the 10/3 wire. The best method might be to buy a splice kit which will provide a better electrical and mechanical connection. There are terminal type connections and linear splice...

I believe locks are made to keep honest people honest. A thief will always find a way. Do we think that a flimsy hatch will stop a serious thief? If pilferage is the issue, I'd rather they steal equipment than do serious damage to structure, hatches, etc. I remove any real valuable stuff and...

This is what the lock looks like for those keys! You probably have three of those type latches as they provide two keys per lock.

My compass in my 330 is in the bilge under the hatch just aft of the step down into the aft cabin. It was originally near some hoses and wires and had a lot of deviation on certain headings. I moved it off centerline and farther away from metal. Now my headings are quite close, within 5...

No inverter on my 330 either

Need to do it on my 2007 330. Did you have to remove the diesel tank starboard side, batteries port side? What deck fittings did you use? Thanks!

On my 2007 330 the generator power feeds the AC distribution panel in the cabin. There are also connections to the voltage control box which, on my boat is behind the port side aft cabin access panel, just forward of the air conditioning compressor.

If it is teak, hope it has not been varnished. You should not varnish teak as it is too oily to hold varnish long-term. If they’re teak, use some sort of teak cleaner and teak oil to restore it. It will look real nice. If it is varnish teak you need to clean the varnish off and clean it and oil it.

I use both 5/8 and 1/2 double braid. For longer-term mooring I use 5/8 mostly for the wear characteristics. As to strength, if 5/8 is needed for strength then you would have other problems. Half is fine in most cases. A little easier to work with on the cleats.

The way I read (Q#3 on ref.) it is you are required to use it , if, it is installed. Therefore, since most smaller vessels (< 26') have them installed, they will be required to be used regardless of manufactured year.

This requirement was written into the Coast Guard Authorization Act by our politicians. Of course there are wireless versions. The requirement to have it attached is only when on a plane or above displacement speed. As a former USCG boarding officer, I wonder how a boarding officer would be...

If you are referring to the hose, it is most likely a drain for a compartment at the top end. All of the compartments on Grady's that could collect water, have drains to the bilge.

Coat them with silicone grease and they will last a lot longer and seal better!

Mine are opened by twisting the entire bezel to the left. Those dimples are into slots in the housing. I replaced mine with LEDs and have been very happy!

I would guess that any good electrical shop that deals with electric motors (rebuild/repair) could help you out or at least point you in the right direction. It's not a complicated piece of machinery.

Cost?

I’ve always heard that seasick had it right. You seem to be saying that a discharged battery is more cold resistant? I don’t know for sure, but I had always heard that a discharged battery would freeze at temperatures higher than one fully charged. Do not have the problem in Florida, but up...

Pictures? How does it attach to the deck?