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No, not upset at all. Sometimes it's probably hard to tell someone's mood via typing only. I've just found that in some boats there is sometimes a dip in a water line and then the tank either doesn't drain or, at least, takes a long time using a faucet. My only point is that opening the...

Actually, based on my actual experience doing this, I have NEVER had one NOT reseat. It's a simple valve, there's really nothing to go wrong. My "experience", to qualify -- so you don't think I'm making it up :) -- 10 years with the hot water heater in my Sundancer... 30 years of doing this...

OK, using the word "Sandpaper" changes things. That sounds more like it IS a scratch? Needs to be polished out. Multiple ways this can be done - depends on the extent of the damage and what tools you have and your experience level at doing this.

To the original question... a number of years ago, I was showing my 13-year old son how to maneuver a boat we salvaged out of our back woods. I knew the transom was soft, so I took it easy. I took him out for about 45 minutes and all was well. Got back to the dock and offered for him to take...

$37,000? That's got to be a misunderstanding or typo. Are you sure you don't mean $3,700? But, it would be best to start your own thread on this since it's not related to the original intent.

Oh... you probably know this, but... when you drain it, be sure to open the expansion valve so the tank drains completely/better. You can open hot water faucets, as well/instead of, but the expansion valve seems to work better/faster.

Since you said it's not really scratched, then the mark you have is transfer from whatever you bumped into. Goof Off, Goo Be Gone, Mineral Spirits, etc, etc.

Drain it - just like you would do with your home HWH. Bypass it by connecting the cold and hot water lines together. When you run the pink stuff through your cold water line, the pink stuff will also go through your hot water lines.

Thanks for the update. Truthfully, I would have thought it would have gone directly overboard given it's height above the waterline!

Looking at the side of the boat for the thru-hull will tell you. But don't worry, a little bit of air won't hurt anything, The string won't either - just don't force it too hard. Sometimes there's info in manuals about this stuff - not sure about this, though.

I don't know the answer... but it stands to reason that if it drains overboard, it would be the shortest route possible - so there would then be a a thru-hull on the side of the boat near the helm. Do you have that? Try a little bit of compressed air or weedwhacker string.

Sounds like your tank is different than mine. I only have a cap that gets removed to fill the tank directly. But you're saying that you have a barb/nipple off the tank that is connected to a remote fill area by a hose? Can you lever it off with a large screwdriver/pry bar/wonder bar? Or is...

Plug either the vent and fuel pickup (either at tank or at hose end). Use a short hose off one of those tanks barbs and clamp an air line fitting into it or barb down to a simple schrader valve. Put a couple PSI into and look/listen for a leak. If your fuel fill deck plate is a combo...

SoFl, did the pump ACTUALLY run for a couple days straight... or are you assuming that? If just assuming, as mentioned above, try "freeing" the float switch. A blast from a hose could work. Otherwise, if there's nothing you can remove to get to the float/pump and you can't get to it with...

Correct - either direct to the battery or indirectly to the battery through the battery switch, using the supply cable - in other words, the battery cable the goes from the battery to the terminal on the switch.

Are the engines mounted the same (height)? You'd have to drop down in pitch quite a bit to get that amount of RPM back... and that doesn't seem right.

Yeah, for this one your best bet is going to be to to a local shop and have it made. Plus, there's no way to know if the existing bimini is original - which means IF there is original full enclosures out there, it may not fit. Besides, this gives you the opportunity to have it made the way...

Welcome aboard, Steve! No, the typical transom issues you read about generally don't exist with an I/O since the transom is fully sealed. Now, if the transom plates are leaking... then that could lead to water ingress. But that is WAY down on the list of possibilities - NOWHERE near as...

Just like in a home faucet - it's the thingy that screws onto the end of the faucet. In the case of the shower, there may be a screen where the hose connects.

I've run into that guy so many times over the years... I can't belive he ain't dead, yet ;)