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Ridge Runner, The way I see it.....there is 16 years of corrosion working against you so it will be unlikely a less than ideal tool is going to give satisfaction. There is also a possibility of damaging the gripping point on the housing so even the proper tool could have trouble holding...

A call to Grady with your hull ID #, you may be able to find out what was in the boat originally.

Every doctor has their own diagnosis but before you start treating for Atherosclerosis you might should consider that depending on the age of the patient it could just be the beginning Prostate enlargement affecting the rate of trim.:)

Before you start ordering parts, Get that oil on your finger and smell it. If it is gear lube it will have a strong/strange smell compared to engine oil. If its the crankcase corrosion problem you will have plenty of time to test out the lower unit while the engine is apart.

I have an older Raymarine Smartpilot S2G. It works very well down to less than 2 knots.

ncprgrady,....Lite tackle is right. 15 amp is far too heavy for that circuit. I've been tinkering with both my washdown and freshwater pumps lately and they both use 15A fuses and I wasn't thinking straight. My bad. Thanks for straightening me out Lite Tackle. Here is how mine is rigged...

Soyboy, be aware that that charcoal filter gizmo in the vent is required by the Feds to meet the emission standards that have gotten very restrictive. The boat builder had to include it but you don't have to live with it. If you remove it and your boat fills properly then you know what to do.

To remove air from the system there is no need to disconnect anything or open the system at all. As per Bennetts instructions, merely cycle the the tabs through 2 or 3 full cycles from fully retracted to fully extended. That will remove any air in the system.

I second the vote for Starbrite...can't beat the results.

Warm the liner up slowly with a hair dryer or heat gun. Be patient because you need to get it warm top to bottom without melting the top portion. When it is hot to the touch full length, push a long screwdriver down between the liner and the rod holder and force the wall of the liner toward the...

A little word of advice on your new bag Russ. Slather lots of zipper lube on the full length of the zipper before you take it in the salt and exercise them regularly. I wasn't vigilant enough and I wound up breaking both levers off the sliders trying to get them to move after they dried out. I...

Dammit birdawg!!!! There must have been some real firedrills during all that action.:) Great pictures, thanks

That isn't a cup holder. It is a catch cup under the inner seat post which protrudes through the top of the storage box. Even if the seat post flange is sealed to the top surface, water can still enter around the inner telescoping part and drain down into that cup when spraying with a hose and...

Beautiful fish Lee. Beautiful lake with a heartbreaking history.

Don't forget the Kahlua for the coffee!

That is indeed a fuse holder. Depending on the size of your pump the necessary amp rating may vary. On my boat there is a 15 amp. It was probably removed by a previous owner or dealer to make sure there was no battery drain. If it is an older used boat it could have been removed due to an...

Randy, To clean up those old zincs, just brush on some muriatic acid and rinse with a hose. Takes seconds and the results will make you smile. They will look new. Its the same stuff you use to clean /etch concrete or balance your swimming pool water. Get it at any pool store or Home Depot.

You need to do a load test of your battery cables. Sounds like what I experienced when one of my cables had corroded inside the insulation. I finally hooked my load tester on the far end of the cables and within less than 5 seconds one cable was smoking and melting the insulation at a low point...

I'm no boat builder but if I had to guess, I would say that's an old repair gone bad.

Dead zinc???