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Thanks! I’ll give that a try later this week. Someone asked the same question on Facebook and got the exact same response that you gave me. Great advice on the leader length. I blindly made my hi-lo rigs without knowing that and had hooks sailing behind in the early summer when underway...

Think so? I’m definitely not a fan of it as the rest of the non skid is in great shape except whatever this is under the rails. Seems to be flaking off in a few spots and not sure if it should stop cleaning it so as not to make it worse.

Tried live lining an eel today in the bay to see how it goes before taking my nephews on the boat and we head out front later this week. However, hooking one through the lip was painful on flat waters. Any advice on how to do it? I tried bare handed and with a glove but it kept squirting...

For the longest time, I thought that my nonskid around the deck rails had mildew and required a stronger cleaner. However, it looks like it’s starting to peel off. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? It’s a 20 year old boat and the main deck is fine, but everything under the rails...

OK - I have nothing on there right now. Should have done before I put the boat in, but will now be doing it in the off season.

Congrats!!! Well, you proved us wrong about it not fitting there....

What was the consensus on how to seal the bracket? I am planning on doing this once my boat is out of the water. 4200? Boatlife Lifecaulk? Boatlife Lifeseal? Thanks!

How is the clarity between the front panels and the rest? I plan to replace just my front panels as the rest I can live with. They did a really good job on yours.

Agreed...I know a lot of people want to convert to Stainless and thought these were a great option. How long have you had them for?

Is there a 12in that can actually fit flush mounted in the electronics box without modifying? Seems like the vertical length of the back would be about a 1/4in too tall to fit... Maybe Grady made the opening bigger as the years went on

Where are you putting the 12? Hardtop?

Depends on the cover. I went with a Fisher canvas cover and had no issues. My hardtop has a dome, spotlight and some old school GPS receivers.

Curious if factory was doing double clamps as my boat has lots of original equipment and I do not have double clamps anywhere. That’s changing this offseason when I replace a lot of the hoses.

I haven’t lifted my panels up yet over the tank but definitely look at the access hatches on them. I thought I was good in the beginning of the year with buying new gaskets but the water was still sleeping between the outside of the access and the floor panel. I recaulked this past weekend but...

Ok...I was struggling understanding what you did as underneath it looks really thick but fits in that recess rather than over the top. Thought the pics were playing an optical illusion on me

Why would you prefer one 10 or 12 vs two 7s??? If you split a 12, wouldn’t two 7s using full screen be a better view?

How thick is the panel? What arm did you use for support? That was my original plan but I didn’t think the hinges would fit with the units but I’ll measure again. I like the carpet piece you have in there. My dad did that with my boat when I was a kid. Very clean...

In case anyone is interested, I bought these stainless steel cupholders from Amazon for my 228. They fit nicely and have a thread on the bottom so you can attach a hose if you want (5/16). If you want to upsize it to a larger hose to connect to the livewell drain, get a female thread that is...

Can you share a pic of your flush mount? I think I might have saved it already but debating on how to do the panel. Either on top (over the lip) or recessed where the current hatch is (on the lip). Think most folks do on top...

I have the noco genius g3500...bought for $35 and was happy with it.