After reading Fishtales adventure with a wet transom I took a closer look at my own Marlin transom. What I saw did not please me but I'm glad that I took the time to inspect.
I found a small crack in the gel coat in the well that ran the entire length of the well. I also noted the jello like...
My 2007 Marlin with 250's turning a 4 blade prop run at 1 mpg. That is in the PNW so I can rarely open her up on the ocean. The 4 blade may cost mpg but it has better control at slower speeds.
I had that happen and had a repair kit I bought off a gentleman that cruised the inside passage, several relays were included. It turned out to be a plug and play module. In my case the relay was not allowing fuel in. I'd suggest you take a look at the 2 relays.
What I did when I bought my used boat was to unseal the rear floor section and remove. Had to change the fuel filters anyway. I used a 12" wide board to slide my fat self in as far as I could to reach the rear of the genset. One handed I undid the wingnuts, and remove the cover and the...
The 12.2 was off the Yamaha gauge. I am pulling the batteries one by one and testing them. I'm trying to revive the bad ones by using a jumper cable to a good one, then putting a charger on the good one. Just following a YouTube video.
I would have preferred a loose connection.
So it is battery bank #1. Found the cause.
During move water shifted to the bow, turning on the bow bulge pump. It stuck on. Completely drained one set of batteries. Engine raises fine on all battery settings.
Batt bank #1 shows 12.2 v after 4...
If I'm lucky it will be the first point I check. I don't want to take bets on my luck.
Something that 80 miles and 2 sets of railroad tracks could loosen. I'll see if setting the battery selectors to ALL has any positive result. That would mean one bank ist kaput. Could be an issue with...
I finally got the starboard engine all buttoned up and went to test the engine with a 100 gallon tank. Of course I had lost the bung. I grabbed a foam plug I keep on board and was able to test the engine. She ran fine after I pumped the bulb enough to get cramps in my hand.
Now for the...
Not very well. It broke on the first try to get 177 ft lbs on the flywheel nut. I was using a pipe for more power and you can see where it broke. There is little metal right where the stress hits. Oh well, I'll have to find some metal stock as you did. Thanks for the photos.
I hate timing belts.
The closest I've come to lining up those top double marks. As I tighten the belt that port cam moves a bit. I must be one tooth off. But don't see how to overcome this. I'll keep trying.
I'm as slow as a retiree. All the time, for my yard right now. I took the VST tank off today to change the filter. All that work to change a clean filter. That is good news I guess. I'll start putting it all together tomorrow.
Those knots sound good. I'd take off 10-20 yards and closely inspect the line. The only time I've snapped braid was accidentally kicking the nail over. Even then most times the 150g jig comes back at me.
Good luck, let us know what you determine.
Talking tools, I bought this adjustable pin spanner for the torque needed on the flywheel bolt. I'm hoping it will work with a pipe stinger. I'm not paying $200 for the Yamaha version. I'll update if it holds up to the torque required.
My bolts were 8mm, but some came with a basic puller from Napa. A large rubber mallet provided enough of a punch to make the fly wheel release under tension.
I finally got the new belt on the first engine. I loosened the rear center idler to get the belt on.
I called a mobile marine...
Thanks so much for the advice. Heading out now.
Also called a mobile tech to price the second engine. My old fingers HATE the wire disconnects. I find it painful to get those suckers off.