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That will work. I guess I should have said that I would recommend that the stern faces the sand bar assuming the area can have swells and/or or reasonable tide swings. Maybe I should have just said nothing:)

I believe that when sizing, a claw or delta style anchor will be lighter than a danforth style. You also have 10 feet of chain as compared to 4 feet. The longer chain can help the anchor set/hold better in shallow waters when swells are present.

Which anchor will face the sandbar? I ask because if your bow faces the sandbar and the currents or wind are pushing you towards the sandbar, if the stern anchor lets loose you could end up beached. In that scenario you might need a bigger stern anchor to hold your hull in place.

Poppet assembly is a little tricky. Make a note of the order of parts when disassembling. Note that when you remove the bolts, the internal spring pressure will tend to 'pop' the unit open and parts can fly:) Also make sure that the rubber poppet seat get inserted correctly into the block. If...

Sorry I didn't see your statement about just installing a new unit. In this case, the joker valve would be new, it is right next to the discharge hose port. Trouble shooting is different for vacuflush models. Here are some troubleshooting steps for a few kinds of vacuflush problems...

Not knowing your msd type, backflow is often a sign that the joker valve (duckbill valve) needs replacement. it is a fairly easy but sometimes nasty job:(

A stuck open poppet will cause overheat at low revs but normal cooling at higher revs

Without knowing what msd option you have, I can' tell but it should be fairly easy to tell sea water from fresh water when you flush. In addition, if you close the sea water seacocks ( close all of them for now) and no water fills the bowl when flushing, then obviously the system is raw water (...

What is the model number? I looked at a few pumps and it seems they draw typically a few amps but have a max draw of 50 amps! I don't know what situations would cause a 50 amp draw. Was the pump factory or added later. It is possible that the factory wiring and fusing is undersized for the pump...

Just add the check to your routine end of season or start of season maintenance. While you are working in that area, you should grease the zerk fittings on the major bushing rotation areas. There iare one or two fittings on the casting that holds the shaft that the motor turns on ( as opposed to...

It is easier to top off the level rather than try to determine where it is. You have to be consistent also in how you check. The most consistent is to raise the motor all the way, engage the stop level and then lower the motor till it just rests on the stop lever. The reservoir will be it lowest...

One more tidbit about an oil slick. The best time to check is not when operating but rather a day or so after tilting the motor up for dockage. In addition the waters have to have been fairly calm. Before doing anything with the motor, gently rock the hull side to side and then look aft for any...

Prior to this issue, how often did you check the fluid level? I bet rarely:) Every time you use the trim and tilt, a little oil is left on the rams. Over a long time time, that can add up. As the rams age, they also become less smooth and that uses up a bit more oil. Oil leaks through the seals...

The thing that doesn't support this theory is that the motor started and ran for a while.

Good point. Did the primer bulb ever get firm when squeezing?

How big was your previous boat? What motors on old and new and how many? I ask because in some cases yoy will benefit by having a lesson or two with an experience captain/friend especially if you are going to twins and haven't had them before. If you haven't taken a Boaters Safety course, you...

Let us know what you find and good luck.

probably not original. It is hard to tell if it was a repair or more importantly a repair done well. It could be that a previous owner chewed up the keel beaching the boat, a fairly common issue. The surveyor should be able to tell if the keel is sound.

It can be done in the water but the difficulty increases as the number of parts you need to remove increases. One piece of advice is to rig a tarp under the motors. If you are in a private slip, all the better for rigging the tarp. Should you drop something, hopefully the tarp will catch it.

You didn't state what HP the older 2 strokes were but power wise, I think they will be fine. You may need to fiddle with prop selection to tune for your needs. In general the 2s had better low end torque but new 4s have made big improvements. That said, you had 12 cylinders firing once per rev...