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On my last boat (28' Sea Ray), the anchor locker was completely sealed from the cabin and was 3' deep and quite wide, as well. I could plug the drain holes and wash/soak it right there in place like Seasick mentioned! I like my Grady, and realize it's 4 decades old, but still... who in their...

No worries, guys! I didn't mean anything negative by my last comment. I just thought it was interesting! :)

Absolutely! I paint the inside of the scupper tubes (best I can) with anti-foul paint. I just kinda slop it in there - sometimes with something as simple as some rolled up paper towels.

Polypropylene rope is not ideal for achor line. It is NOWEHERE near as durable and long lasting as traditional nylon rope. It also has no stretch (nylon does) which is highly recommended for anchoring. Poly rope will get degraded by UV, as well. It is also wears/cuts very quickly against...

Man, I only used the word "Vernier" as a general reference for the OP since he probably isn't familiar with this stuff and if I just said "caliper", he might think I was referring to a braking system. I didn't realize it would cause such a stir! :)

Yes, see my comment above. :)

Good thinking!

Wrap a string around it make a match mark. Stretch out the string and measure accurately between marks. Divide that number by Pi. But since you probably already know that Pi is 3.14, if you measure 3.14 (or awful darn close), then you don't have to divide. Could also use a set of Vernier...

Do you need 24"? No. You would have nice results with a 12" span. But it can ONLY help to have bigger ones.

Check the vent hose, itself, for a low spot where excess fuel could have accumulated. That would cause the exact problem you're seeing. Fix the low spot if this is the case. For now, open the fill and remove the vent hose from the tank. Blow into the vent hose - do you hear/feel a gurgle...

Span is more important than chord. Go with the largest span you can comfortably fit there. Does the size that Bennett recommended physically fit?

Just thinking outloud... it's not a complicated piece of machinery, so, in no particular order: -- Poor shear pin quality -- Excessive drag in the motor -- Changing direction too fast, too often -- An obstruction However, I wouldn't necessarily say (just yet) that you have a problem. Breaking...

Yup, got one at the shop (not sure which brand, though). It works as advertised. Although, I have to admit, I still just usually put a piece of tape over the forward inatek slits!

Since it happened after you disconnected Batt 1, the first step is to retrace what you did. Look for a wire that wasn't put back on #1, such as a shared ground.

Yes, sounds like motors aren't travelling (or starting) equally or throttles aren't being advanced simultaneously and evenly.

More correct than you think... see my post #4 :) This one was just a follow up to info already stated.

Are they all bad? Pull the panel, look at the back of the breakers - there's usually manufacturer info on them. But probably Blue Seas.

You got it! Just a side note... King Starboard is simply a brand name for HDPE (like Kleenex of Xerox). They're probably the most widely known version of HDPE, but it doesn't mean you have to buy that brand.

Try Taco Marine or King Starboard. Look at the colors they offer then find a retailer. You could even try a materials supplier like McMaster Carr. Make sure you're getting a marine-grade material (one that is UV stable). BUT... maybe think about a contrasting color (light grey, for example...

Just out of curiosity, are you using a pole(s) to "tent" the covers so that they're taut? I've owned a half dozen boats with snap-on bow/cockpit covers, family member have them and I work with boats that have them... so I have experience with, literally, hundreds of them. What you're...