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If it was me, I'd probably put them in with epoxy. If you're going into solid wood, there is zero chance that they'd pull out. I think the only tricky part is making sure you get them centered with the existing holes in the panel. But ti shouldn't be too bad if you follow the existing screw...

I do not have that - maybe in the owner's manual? You can try looking on Grady's site. Not sure if the manual is that specific, though. It may, however, list color coding as that's standard in the industry and you can compare to your wiring. For example, grey wires will be nav lights. A...

(Boat model doesn't matter here) That's a good idea. You may want to just install a nice, waterproof access plate above your fuel sending unit. That will give you easy access to the pull the sending unit to make pumping out the water quick and easy.

As noted, the big "data point" is your top end speed and WOT RPM... along with what the old engine HP was. From your description, it sounds like you're not maxing things out. The way you said "rarely" leads one to believe it's more about conditions than a true top speed. There's more...

Yes, you're correct - I've seen the deformity. I've really only ever seen it on "cheapie" boats, though -- they weren't cored - just thin :) That REALLY surprises me that Boston Whaler states that!

There's usually a second HIN plate somewhere (hidden). Try behind a dash panel or something like that. You might ask Grady to help you find it.

Do you know of any smaller boats that have cored hulls? This isn't a "challenge" - I just, personally, don't know of any cored-hull (bottom, especially) small boats. Although, I suppose it's a moot point since we're all here to talk about Grady's! :)

They both have their merits. Less expensive, less maintenance is a plus for bunks - plus they "typically" center the boat better as it comes on. However, there are times when a bunk trailer just doesn't work - if someone is launching/retrieving into a shallow area then a bunk trailer...

You won't be able to fix that - replace the damaged section of tubing.

Most of the time they fail "inoperative" at E or "sketchy" readings. But VERY occasionally they fail like it did for you. Moral of the story... don't assume they ALWAYS fail like it did in your case :)

No, that is your steering pump. It is completely different than power trim. Your trim pump is mounted inside the engine bracket. I'm not convinced you eliminated both batteries. You mentioned you load tested one of them at 334CCA. That's not good. This is assuming you have a reliable load...

Trim has the same kind of LCD "bars". Probably just gotta wait till you're at the boat again and can look closer. Unless the sender wire is shorted to ground.

That white connector looks way to big to be a fuel line... and not the right kind of connector, either. Looks more like a water line/flush attachment. Follow your fuel line from where it enters the cowl. From there, it may go through a filter and eventually to some type of pump. Try...

There should be bars going vertically on one of the gauges with a picture of a gas pump on the right side of the bezel.

More like 3' deeper :)

I'd also be checking all of the connections at the battery and the battery switch. If a connection is loose, it may pass volts... but not enough amps for certain items. Also check at the starter. Your batteries should not test at 14+V without the engine running or battery charger on. Either...

I often say... a depthfinder tells you where you've been, not where you are going. And, yes, there are forward looking sonars - but that's not what we're talking 'bout. :) FYI, most depthfinders have a setting for "keel offset". That said, yes, any of this is just "general" info in regards...

Yes, you are correct. But as I understood his question, he was wondering how close he could get when using a trolling motor?

If you look at the specs for your boat, note the "draft". This is how much the water the boat can float in. As you said, though, wieght and weight distribution can affect this by a few inches.

You NEED to make a template for yourself. All "templates" they have are from a boat owner. It's very common for it to not be correct. Do it the right way and order the company's templating material and make your own. Or order the template if they have it and then make your alterations...