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I would use the hacksaw blade by hand, as well. Brass is soft - it's easy. Or a take a chisel and cut one of the ends off and then deform the other - you may be able to just pull it right out. If you're comfortable with the zip saw, though, sure that's fine. Personally, I like using the two...

Zipwakes and Bennett hyrdraulic tabs (what you have) are both doing the same thing. Zipwakes are newer tech and do it quicker, is all. But both will level the boat side to side (list) and fore/aft (pitch). They will both help to keep the bow planted in a choppy sea. They will both get you on...

It might just be that you have to get used to a "bigger" boat and they way they perform. It's naturally going to be a little different than a lighter boat. The twin 150's are not really "small" - you have two of them with two props biting into the water. Twin 150's is a very sought after...

It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but the boat appears to sitting pretty close to level with the bow just a bit high (which is proper). Twin 150's should be pushing that boat along VERY nicely. Having the motors on the bracket INCREASES performance, including hole shot. Is this...

Super easy install - nothing really to write about from that standpoint. As far how wide to set them - my personal preference is to set them so they are the same width apart as the widest part of your boat - which is typically at about the windshield... or just look at the specs for your model...

You can get your manual right on Grady's website. It may or may not have your exact switch layout, but should at least have the icons listed. It looks like most of yours are recognizable. Compare to the manual. Try wetting the switch covers to make it more readable.

Original tank would be Al, not SS. Is yours actually SS? "Suspect" fuel... since you just emptied it, what did it look like? Get in there with a scope and check it out. It might be just fine... or maybe not. But check it out and see for sure. But if you were running a good fuel/water...

It wouldn't work at all if the wrong size chain was on there. Gypsies only work with a certain size chain.

And/or... since the boat is 2 decades old... who knows how many previous owners it has had and what has been changed.

The newest style of Taco's ball/socket mounts (probably been around for 7 or 8 years now) have a different locking pin that can't work it's way out by accident. I'm not sure what Hometeam bought, though. Just an FYI.

Sure, it becomes a small tripping hazzard. All depends on "priorities". An easy solution would be to make them drop-in/removable. But 4" or 5" higher than the gunwale shouldn't be a problem for most people.

Saw that, too. Thinking, though, that it could be superficial (at least at this point). Meaning, it may not be from water finding it's way in elsewhere and then leaking out through that crack... but instead water entering that crack and then right back out. However, the aluminum bang plate IS...

I would venture a guess that, regardless of how they attached (which, at this point, is a moot point since you can do whatever you want), they were probably short and no higher than the gunwale. Go to Grady's site - you should be able to find pictures in the old brochures. For real support...

From that picture, it looks like the transom is still flat. It's quite possible that the core is still good and the crack is not nearly as bad as some think. It could be a very easy fix. Point is... as you said, hared for us to tell for sure. More investigating needs to be done on site...

Keep in mind that not all anchors work with all anchor rollers. It could just be that you have the wrong anchor for your roller. In that case, the ideas of letting out a bit of slack just before anchoring are good ones - let the anchor "wiggle" it's way loose as the boat moves around. You...

There's absolutely no way for us to tell you if there's damage underneath, or not. Even a picture won't help (other than for curiosity sake, anyways). Start by asking the owner. Usually keel guards and stuck on with double-sided tape, though - not glassed on.

Could also have a restriction in the vent line/fitting. It may not be strong enough to cause a problem when the engine is running at higher RPM, but possible at lower RPM (less suction by LP pump). At idle-ish speeds, the engine will run until the VST tank is emptied. Inability to (easily)...

See that, kids, we CAN use math in everyday life! :)

There will definitely be a circuit breaker or fuse for an electric motor. I don't own the same model as you, but yes, there will be something to protect the wiring going to a motor. I assume you know where your circuit breakers/fuses are so start there. If you don't know, it shouldn't be too...

I think you have enough variables to check into that you need pop the tank hatch off and look/measure. If you want to know if it's going to work, that's really the best way.