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The motor is original GW part. The wiper is probably an Ancor automotive black anodized aluminum. Originals were stainless "school bus" type. The lid does flip up and is part of the wiper arm. The arm attaches to the splined shaft and has a setscrew to retain it. I removed my wipers and horn...

Those lights look great!. Do you remember what they are? I'll probably start there. Maybe do some under the gunnel. Strictly for show - no functional value for me. What is a drain plug light? Underwater lights? I don't have any. Maybe if I take the transom apart I'll add a pair.

You will have to make them. I did mine.

I think there is a setscrew to keep on splined shaft. I’ll check.

One of my favorite movies along with Jaws!

That would probably work for older units. Newer units make their own power internally. They can take 12 to 36 VDC without changing a switch. But 10 VDC is the low end of what they can tolerate. My issue has been low voltage alarms.. If you run bait pumps, refrigerator, electronics, stereo, etc...

Yes that cover flips up. Aluminum cover may be galled up. You may damage it but you will change it out anyway. Arm attaches to splined motor shaft. My old ones are on the shelf. I’ll look at them this am.

My panel is where your Minn Kota control is. I rarely use the boat at night either. I like the Contura V switches better. I may add blue cockpit lights in the cockpit and put them on the dimmer. Have you or SkunkBoat done cockpit lighting?

Trying to get the orders in tomorrow. 6x2 to match original. A little wider but should be ok. Blue backlit with dimmer. Trimmed old harness out with Molex connectors to boat out of old panel. No reconnectoring/rewiring planned. If something isn't working I'll re-crimp. Ordering a dash panel too...

ICOM 506A Last Call Voice Recording: The last call voice recording function automatically saves the last two minutes of the last incoming call. You can replay the received call and not miss any incoming call.

I had similar problem with low voltage while fishing in Florida in the Winter. I'm running bait pumps, refrigerator and electronics the whole time I'm out (daytime). I have 4 Duracell AGM batteries (2 starting and 2 house separate not paralleled) and a ProMariner Pro 20 3-bank charger and a Noco...

It may be a little late to suggest this but those Molex connectors might be easy and cheap to get. I did a Google search for 15 pin Molex and it sent me to Digikey. Going direct to Digikey is too complicated - too many selectors. If you do this you should have a Molex crimper not just any...

Same conclusion I came to today. The Molex connectors can't be eliminated on my boat - not enough access. They are available from Digikey though. The harness will be the expensive part. I think I'll only go half way. I can make and replace all the jumpers. Replace the connectors and re-use the...

You got me interested! I can't see not going back in with new Molex connectors - assuming they can still get them.

So what did you do? Cut the old panel and harness out and send it to them?

That is a common thru hull but you need to know the hole side and the hose size.

There are a number of wire label makers out there. Prints on shrink tubing. May have to invest in one. On the Molex connector - I have never had to dive that far into my panel wiring to see if there is a connector. I'll look though. Decide later what I'll do.

The connectors on the back of my panel are working but not in the best of shape. I see the 15-pin Molex in Skunkboat's photo. Is the switch panel pluggable?

Pic of the back of the panel would be nice. I'm thinking about doing mine.