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If that positive feed somehow connected to the sender lead, I am sure the senders are toast. That is why a diagram of the switch pinning is important.

Keep us informed about the durability and operation. Interesting mod. My only concern are the brass couplers.

Why do you need to get on plane to get back home? On a separate issue. I wouldn't want a boat with 350s unless (and even then probably not) they were 350Cs

Yup read the user manual .... OK, I got that said now for some hints Hopefully you know and have used the battery selector switch. The batteries will be within about a 2 foot circle of the switches. If the battery switch is under the helm ( I don't know for sure) the batteries are probably in...

Oh NO. :)

Can you post the switch make and model number?

Not if the waters are salty.

in my earlier post I said 'If you will never reuse the old transducer, another option might be to cut the cable aft in the bilge, tie on the new cable with the loop I described and pull the old out from the helm which will pull the new cable in.'

The scuppers are not supposed to be below the water line. So if yours are, either you repowered with heavier motors or your hull is heavier than original and that may be due a wet hull, too much gear, a lot of bottom paint etc.

Towing a boat on the water is safest using two wide spaced deck cleats, one on each side and a bridle. Although I have little doubt that the Grady bow eye is strong enough and would be fine, I would prefer the bridle arrangement

If you mean, will Grady rate your boat for more horse power and document that, the answer is no. The rating is one part of the ABYC certification process, a complicated and expensive task.

I have no big issues with the lower transom. Sometimes water will overflow the transom ( usually my own wake or motoring in reverse) but is stopped by the fold down (and up) barrier between the motor well and aft deck. In addition, the motor well and aft deck are self draining should water...

t looks to me that the last diagram is probably correct and will allow the original lanyard to work as long as the run clip is in the kill switch. The brown and grey (close to top) would be used to connect to the multi-engine connector. One set of the white black wires from the kill switch would...

OK found something. The Yamaha kill switch make connection between the ground (black wire) and the white when the lanyard is pulled. In other words, grounding the white wire will kill the motor

Your installation instructions that come with the new kill switch should have the wiring options info. There may be options on the switch itself too that need to be set since some engines use an open circuit to kill the motor and some use a ground connection. I can't remember what the OXs use...

Your best approach is to remove the old transducer cable at the helm, tie a thin rope (drag line) to the end and then find where the transducer cable enters the rigging tube (wire chase) in the aft bilge area. Pull from the aft end and as you pull the old cable out you will pull the rope...

Cabin wise the two hulls are very similar. The aft deck is larger on the 228 and may be better for fishing with more people. On my 208, we can fish 3 people comfortably but 4 is tight. With a 13 year old, I expect she will want to invite friends out for a 'sail'. A larger boat may be an...

My advice is to look at what's available if any are, but don't set your sights on buying one for this season. That doesn't mean you won't buy but taking that attitude will help keep you from making a decision you may regret later. As you are aware, this is close to the worst time to buy a used...

Also try CLR . I am curious why you have so much rust.

I should also mention two things about connections; Even though a terminal or lug may be tight, the crimp of the terminal to the cable may be bad. So in addition to checking if the terminal is tight, yank on the cable to see if the crimp is tight. Battery cable crimps can be tricky to check...