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I think this deserves repeating... Trailering has nearly nothing to do with the skinny pedal and nearly everything to do with the fat pedal.

Yeah, it can be a bit of a PIA sometimes. Hookup's is a little deceiving because of the way the hull/stern is. But VERY generally speaking, it seems like Grady's like to have the axle/axles centered around the "dip" in the gunwale. I think it's hard to come up with specific rules for how to...

OK, try this first... move the winch stand forward about 6" and see how that works. I wouldn't be surprised if the rig is heavier than you think/are calculating... they usually are! It's a heck of a lot easier and quicker than moving the axles. If that helps, you put it back and move the...

Alright, I would still go back to some of the points I made above. But it does "look" like your axles are decently placed. IF anything, DO NOT move them forward like you are talking about. Measure the tongue weight, though, to be sure - and then possibly move the backwards. 10K gross...

Depends a lot on the model year, too.

Family... Oh, OK, NOW I understand what you meant by a "confusing thread". So... the picture in post #2 is your setup?

Hookup, sway is most commonly caused by too little tongue weight. It looks as if you that might be the case, but go ahead and physically measure it to be sure. Shoot for about 7% of total weight. Another factor could be underinflated tires and/or tires that aren't of the proper rating for the...

I don't know if it's still the case, but it used to be that the max trailer weight rating... you had to subtract the payload in the vehicle to get the real max trailer weight. Just an FYI. It was mentioned above, but deserves repeating. Regardless of "pulling power" (and, yes, you're...

Thanks, Seasick. Misinformation spreads way too easily on the 'net - especially when an opinion is made without knowing all the facts. For what it's worth, Rlloyd, I'm not trying to convince you against using bronze - of course bronze is excellent - just, as SS mentioned, helping to further...

Nope, no issues. Seal the core and screw holes with epoxy or poly resin (those would be "best" practice) or a very good adhesive caulk like Life Caulk or 5200 ("fine" practice). Seal the rod holder with something less adhesive like LifeSeal or even silicone.

Just an FYI regarding your comment about not wanting to use "plastic" below the waterline. Seasick mentioned "Marelon"... that is a VERY special type of fiber-reinforced composite. It's not really "plastic", though. It would be an absolutely fine choice and would last many, many years. Just...

When I start to hear/feel slipping :) It's noticeable - RPM's start to spike without "bite" in the water. A lot like a manual car where you're travelling at a certain speed with the throttle at, say, 30%... then slightly depress the clutch. Since you're getting them tuned, replacing the hub...

Regarding how quickly you could unscrew them in an emergency. First, you would somehow have to know THAT'S where the leak is. But as far removing a few screws... the little bit of time it takes is inconsequential to what would be happening - an extra 30 seconds isn't going to mean much...

It's not really a problem that's specific to a 268 - it's a problem that's specific to any boat with a cored hatch - and especially older ones that may have had previous owner's putting holes in it and not sealing it properly... or owners not regularly re-sealing the access plates. In other...

So here's a little outside the box thinking... or, in this case, "in the box" thinking... can you just take out the current speakers and put better ones back in? I'm not sure if the new speakers would need more "air space" to perform their best than what's inside those Poly boxes, though...

Suggestion... skip the speakers that attach to the hardtop tubes. Those are designed for higher volumes and, while they'll work at lower volumes, you're kinda throwing money away. Plus, I assume you'll be mounting them on the underside of the hardtop which means they could end up being a "head...

OK, well that's different. any other information you "forgot" to mention? :) However, are you sure it's not just the normal OX66 cylinder deactivation/activation feature you're feeling? It wouldn't hurt to have the props sent out to be tuned, though. It's a good idea to do that once in a...

Don't forget to look at other manufacturer's - like I mentioned, Sea Ray has a very nice setup - and I'm sure others. But even the "normal" floor mount base, as I noted, are NOT a tripping hazzard. They are close enough to "flush" to be called "flush". I'm not sure of your experience, but...

Glacier, in case there was a question, my repsonse was not directed in any way towards you. It was just in general agreement to Mustang about the commonality of so-called "experts" on forums. Which, again, is not in response to anything you, personally, said.

Mustang, in case it helps for next time... That said, I don't disagree one bit with your sentiment. Self proclaimed "experts" on subjects, even though the only experience they may have is reading someone else's response on a forum... which may or may not be accurate to start with. Then you...