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Yup, you are correct, you reckless Hoon! :) Yes, caps pop off. The price of those batteries are only around $100 and they do last for a long time - which is why they are still readily available - good bang for the buck. But, yes, we use sealed batteries over here, as well.

Repair or make a new one - trying to find a good one for sale (why would someone get rid of it if it's good?) is going to be a needle in a haystack with a haystack the size of Montana. Post some pics - it may not be as bad as you think.

Yes, Deka is a division under East Penn Manufacturing. I know the Duracell brand is made by Deka and also made to the same specs. I'm not sure about WM. But it's a pretty much a moot point since the WM is not going to be "better" AND they're more $$.

But, do you know who makes the battery? It's not WM. Either way, Deka is top notch.

Deka makes excellent batteries. Who makes the WM battery? Look at the specs - how do they compare?

The door/cupholder area should be pretty easy to verify by using a hose with someone on the inside. But, you need to check to see if this is, indeed, happening after you wash the boat... or is it after a rain... or is it after running the boat? Possible leak sources are a portlight and the...

Good points above. This isn't your fault, of course, but one of the worst things for a trailer is when it just sits. Things corrode in place (especially in a salt environment). Trailers need to be driven to keep things moving/operating. I've seen this more times than I can count...

Maybe what you were reading, Trapper, was a (very) old recommendation? I don't see why it would be a problem. FYI, WRX, those are NOT sealed. You can (and should) pop the caps off to check level. Those are standard, Deka batteries - but they are very good batteries, none the less.

That's crazy. So they were out of stock and sent an errand boy to buy some at the Merc dealer across town and then probably marked them up from there? Just a WAG on that, of course. I don't mind paying a little more to support a local business - especially one that can answer technical...

One side note... the boat is 21 years old and has who knows how many previous owners. This means that the current setup could be different from the stock setup. Your best course of action is to just go and look at and follow wires - that way you know for sure. You should also find info on...

If you want, I'll take that expired stuff off your hands at no charge so you don't have to pay a recycling fee.... No, it'll be fine. Maybe at some point - but certainly not just a year, or even a few.

In that case, I would wonder if maybe your measuring just isn't spot on? It's an awful hard area to get an accurate measurement at. And/or, you might find where the anti-vent plate sits changes based on the speed you're going. Possibly you're measuring when you're "just" on plane? Try going...

The anti-ventilation (cavitation is a totally different thing than ventilation) plate on your setup will be roughly even with the bottom of the keel. If you are confident in your assessment that it's 2" too low while on plane, raise the engine one hole and go for another ride.

If you use the Colder part number and google search for it, you should be able to find a retailer that way. However, I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that your local (or any) Grady dealer may have these in stock and your "time investment" into getting this part would probably only be about 5...

Along those lines, is the scum line you are referring to on the bottom paint or on the gelcoat?

None that I have ever, personally, found over the years. A better solution is to have a grill, like a Magma, onboard. Then a simple aluminum or SS coffee pot (like a perculator). But don't use the perc part of it - just boil the water - then use a french press to make the coffee. The plus to...

What's your end game with this - how much heat are you looking for? Just to keep your hands warm at the wheel?

You shouldn't need to do much - especially if you get on it right after pulling it out since everything will be soft. It should just be, if anything, a soft scum/algae. Rinse it down, use a soft brush and soap - that should do it. Power washing can be done, but tends to take more of the paint...

If you install a shorter pulpit, would the anchor now hit the bow keel? And... what exactly are you trying to say here? Ever heard of proof reading before clicking submit? :)

Take a look at Barbour Plastics and see if they have something that would work. If you don't care about it being chrome (stainless?), then this probably becomes a much easier find. Taco Metals is another manufacturer to check into.