Search results

Sure, water could have gotten into the tank. Especially if the sender gasket is old - or maybe there are holes in the top of the tank. You never mentioned what boat you have or even the year, though. Do you have a plastic or aluminum tank? Next step? Kinda obvious, right? Check for water...

Being out on the water won't make a difference - it ain't that smart! :) But here's another idea to verify/check... disconnect the two plug connectors and short them to each other on the boat side. I "think" that doing that should show full bars while unconnected should show 1 bar. It might...

First, check to see if the arm is actually being moved by the motor. No, there's no reset needed. Next, try manually moving the arm by hand - note that there is a short delay in the readout so take that into consideration. If manually moving it works... see my post in that other thread you asked...

First, check to see if the arm is actually being moved by the motor. No, there's no reset needed. Next, try manually moving the arm by hand - note that there is a short delay in the readout so take that into consideration. If manually moving it works... see my post above. I still can't...

The hoses being a few feet higher than the tank shouldn't matter. However, as Glacier mentioned, the pumps are typically mounted close to the tank for a reason. But I think you'll be OK. I have a similar pump that I use for winterizing the cottage and it pulls from a bucket of antifreeze...

That ain't a bad idea, Glacier. Along those lines, a 3-way ball valve before the inline filter is another means to the end.

I don't know that offhand, but if you go to Grady's website, you can download the owner's manual - that info should be in there.

Without an electrical/mechanical means of transferring water from the new tank to the old tank (where the pickup is), you'd need to rely on gravity. This can be done with a hose connection between the two tanks. The hose connections would be mounted as low as possible - essentially allowing...

Any fossil fuel will produce CO as a by product of combustion... gasoline, diesel, propane, natural gas, etc. The amount of CO produced is dependent on how "complete" the burn is and the fuel being burned (some naturally burn more efficiently, like propane). Even a properly functioning propane...

Seth, you already have bottom paint, though. After protecting the exposed glass, your options are to leave it as is or re-paint to make it look uniform. A third option is to remove the bottom paint... but that is a VERY lengthy process that also requires wetsanding the gelcoat to because, if...

Your welcome! "Or is that just to make it that much harder on my knees, back and neck working in a bilge?" Well, that's part of it ;) But this is really just a "best practice" thing and not entirely necessary. However, the reason is because the clamp doesn't fully "clamp" 360*. Underneath...

FYI, it's not the "resin", it's the actual fiberglass which has resin in it to bind it together. Will you be continuing to use bottom paint? If so, just put a coat or two of epoxy resin on it and call it a day.

OK, that's good. So the tank platform/box is an entirerly separate entity from the bulkhead, then. And what we were all talking about originally is NOT a stringer. During construction, the bulkhead would have been glassed in first. Then the box would have been added. So, worst case, the...

First, using 5200 on screw-on plumbing connections (it sounds like that's what Mermaid is saying?) is an absolutely ridiculous recommendation. Can you cut the starboard longer so it extends past the stringers a couple inches - then mount the L-brackets on the outboard side of the stringer...

You guys know that area better than me, but it looks like there would be a short stringer inside that area... running from the red circle towards the bilge pump. If so, my concern would be water intrusion into the wood. I'd be tempted to cut some of the fiberglass away to fully check out the...

That doesn't surprise me.

The ad says it's a 1991. Did he change it after your conversation with him, Glacier?

I think your biggest obstacle is whether or not you have a structural bulkhead between the two tanks. Do you have that? If not, go for it. If you do, I wouldn't feel comfortable getting rid of something that is structural. I'm sure you remove it and add "some" type of bracing across the top...

A good winter cover is going to be pricey. For indoor storage, just get a big, lightweight tarp. Drape it loosely over the boat and you'll be good. You may even find some thin, clear, plastic drop cloth material that would work (Home Depot).

For dust? For rain? For snow? For summer? For winter? Will you have easy/quick access to the boat while it's covered? What's your budget?