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Langski, I like what you're doing and also that you're sharing with us. As others have noted, though, there are much easier and less time consuming methods for the end of the season (like just filling up and treating the fuel). But here's the thing... there's nothing inherently wrong with what...

Scott, what do you mean by "metal"? Chunks of metal or just shavings on the magnet? Shavings on the magnet is normal... the rest, well, not so much.

That is not impact damage - this looks like a poor job of fiberglass layup. It appears the gel and the resin the glass never fully bonded. My guess is that if you started prying on the gelcoat it would, pretty easily, keep chipping off. The "fix" could be anywhere from "do nothing" to a full...

Give the tank top a good cleaning and double check. This is something you need to SURE of, not "sort of". FYI, there is a greater chance of holes being under the wood than a lesser chance. The reason is because aluminum does a good job of self protecting itself... but it needs good air flow...

In the picture, that plate looks pretty good -- that's all we can see. Were you afraid to hold the metal in your bare hand? :) Why not just shine it up with some metal polish/protectant like Flitz? Southco is a common mfg used for things like this, but I can't say for sure. Check out their...

Wait a minute, guys. Joe, based on what you wrote it kinda sounds like you are putting them on the deck AND the hull? As far as the hull goes, clogging depends on the water you are in. But as noted, and kinda obvious, putting them on the side is a bad idea.

The purpsoe of using the portable tank was just to make sure the engine runs and get that part (a big part) off your mind. I'm not concerned about it starting hard - in fact, that would have been expected. Nothing there troubles me. No, I would not expect water to get into the fuel system...

Hence the reason that "solution" was my first suggestion, as well ;)

:)

FYI, the heater I used was an electric, oil-filled type.

If you wanted more time, build a square-ended frame over the transom and have it shrink wrapped nice and high. Put a zipper door on the backside and you can work on it all Winter at your leisure. I did this when I replaced and re-built (different than stock) the entire cockpit floor and I even...

Use the flush port WITHOUT running the engine. Yamaha specifically says not to run the engine while on the flush port. I do know that some water drops down the water tube to the impeller - but how much, and if it is enough to keep it properly lubricated - who knows. There are other factors...

Regardless of where you are, the "best practice" is to store full or empty, never anywhere in between. This is not to say that a tank filled 50% WILL have issues - I'm simply saying that it increases the chances, whereas full/empty (and ideally properly treated) virtually eliminates the chances...

No, there are no "kits". Unless you consider calling your dealer and say "get me what I need" and then let them earn their money. But they're not pre-formed, either (they never were).

First, are you sure you have a fresh water tank? If you have two fills, they could very well be for two gas tanks. Being unlabelled means they were likely changed somewhere along the line. At 30+ years old there could have been MANY changes to the boat by previous owners. If you're sure you...

Another vote for the most likely issue... a wire that was missed when reconnecting the batteries. Or even connected to the wrong battery post. Otherwise, yes, check for voltage at the starter (relay). What is that 40amp breaker for? Where does the wire go? Coud it be the feed for the dash...

I do think Tony is correct to pull the floorboard and check the tank for probable leak points. In his first post, he said the tank was nearly empty and then after the "near sinking" it was registering full on the gauge. Tony, in the meantime, if you wanted to run the engine, connect a portable...

Check with that hazardous waste facility - they may already have a way of removing the fuel - may already have a fuel-safe pump. Running on muffs is fine. Yes, use the primer bulb to first fill the on-engine filter and then the VST.

Not out of the woods - but at least you verified the problem. The reason water came out first is because it's heavier than gas. In order for water to be there, it means it's in the tank. You got to at least siphon/pump water out of lowest spot in the tank (based on the level that the tank...

"mind starts thinking"... yeah, I get that. Understood. The premise of a water separating fuel filter is to do just that. Stop the water and only allow the fuel to pass. Do you also have a boat mounted filter? If not, you should. So, in theory, the water shouldn't make it past the filter...