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Good to know, at this point, if I go with the bait pump, leaning towards the Shurflo Bait Sentry as it can handle debris and has shown reliable results from other posts, my existing Pro Blaster will be used for the wash down. Shurflo responded back to me in regards to an inquiry about the 5gpm...

I would reconsider putting the Starfoam blocks back in there so that they can help displace any water that might get in during an offshore trip. New foam of course. Think about it...If the bracket leaks for some reason and has room to hold let's say 100 gallons of water, that is a lot of weight...

Yeah, thanks guys..kinda leaning this way. So I take it you do not have a check valve installed? So that when you run the washdown pump it does not pull from the livewell line and suck air?

Thanks seasick. The ProBlaster I have now is rated for continuous duty to support the livewell, so ok there. The washdown model will not be continuous, so I prefer the Extreme Pro Blaster model. The pump that I replaced last year was the same Shurhold that was just over 20 years old and still...

Ok, somewhere, I had found a post a while back where someone showed pics where they had 2 pumps connected to a tee to their sea cock valve. I recall asking about it and seem to recall that they said they had no issues running both pumps from this one inlet. I have not been able to find this...

Lining up my winter projects. Seems my old Groco still locks up occasionally and hit with hammer and it always frees up, but it is time to replace it. I will go with the external pump like you guys have done in pics. One item I am having a hard time finding is the 3/4" to 1" barbed reducer. Did...

From all I have read about, even closed cell foam will still accept water, whether through condensation,or other seepage. If I were you, I would check more into this as once you do it, it will be tough to remove it. Also, it will not add any structure in a bracket situation. Think about it, the...

I am told it helps, but mine is still original and sticks sometimes, so hoping to help it go a little longer. Might just replace it this winter as a project. When it sticks, I tap on the top with a dead blow hammer and she is good to go again for a while.

The magnet issue was from my subwoofer, which I had to move to very front of the vberth to not cause interference. Ant magnet near the RC42 will make it inaccurate. How much isdependant upon the field strength. You can watch the radar compass rotate as you move the magnet.

Now that is thinking! Those magnets should work well with the nails. Sorry, just had to be a joker today! Must be the weather and land locked too long!!! Seriously, I had epoxied in a magnet already to hold the door up, so this is a great idea. Only thing I can think of now is that will cause...

Yeah, that is the scary part giving me the option! Use 16 penny galvanized nails or lag bolts? :jaw My guess would be that they would have matching vinyl straps sewn on the sides and snaps in edge of hatch, but that would mean I need to find an upholstery shop to do that work for me. Kinda...

Grady installs 2 3/4" seacocks for the head. One for intake, the other for pumpout from macerator tank. I also just empty tank, flush well with fresh water and then pour in a bottle of vegatable oil for pump lubrication and also for seacock valves and antifreeze and pump out until I see pink...

There is no evidence of any snaps for them. I am guessing that someone purchased all new seat cushions before selling as they all looked brand new when I got the boat in 2011. But even then, would have thought there would be some evidence of the snaps near where the cushions would be. But nope...

Anyone out there have any ideas? I normally don't put my rear facing seat cushions out since I would forget they are there and risk blowing them out of the boat and not notice. There is no way to snap or strap them down. Or at least the one's I have do not have any evidence of every being...

Read a lot of posts on this bracket situation on how to stop leaks, seal, etc. Everyone recommended to NOT fill it with foam since foam will still soak up water over time and get heavy, then removing it would be a chore. I think that condensation alone occurs,even if sealed somehow....dunno...

I used marine tex epoxy to fill in the low spots. How heavy were those foam blocks? You mention water logged. I broke off a couple of pieces on mine last year when I had the access ports opened for reseal and they were damp, but not water logged. The chuck I broke off was still very light in...

You might try this..... The oring is likely preventing any penetrating fluid from reaching the metal threads. They could be somewhat corroded causing difficulty in removal. See if can find an old filet knife with long thin sharp end point. Push it down between the gap of cap and outer fitting...

For caulking, I have been using the GE Almond Bathroom caulk and it has done a great job and still looks good everwhere I have used it. Easy to work with as well. I had just removed my cabin deck cover to change out a Seacock with a Marelon and I used a filet knife to cut the caulk that I had...

The trim is thin so it warps pretty bad at times. Moer screws would help but would start to look bad. New boats are using some type of vinyl flex trim but thicker toe rail out of starboard. I did notice some slight warp from the grady toe rail but not enough to worry about.

I replaced all 13 of my thru hulls with SS. Got all of them from Grady except for one that they didn't make in that size, so found it from Attwood. I have a post here somewhere on it. I had 3 plastic ones that were already cracked and leaking! I don't see plastic on the new Grady's either. Not...