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Perko makes bronze thru-hull with an integrated flapper. Are you sure it's 2-1/2" to 3" where the thru-hull will go? Sometimes it's thinner there.

That may not be a full 1,500lbs - but I'm sure it's at least 1,200lbs. At 1,200lbs, it puts you pretty much dead on with the weight carrying capacity. Load range D's would the solution - but I wouldn't rush to do it. It's not like if you go over the capacity by small margin that the trailer...

FYI, the question about greenwood was from 2007 :)

Well, actually, that's not too bad. So the boat/trailer is 6,440. If you have a galvanized trailer, subtract about 1,500 lbs. If you have an aluminum trailer, subtract about 1,000. With the aluminum trailer you're currently (as weighed) 240lbs over. You'll be fine with that. BUT, you MAY...

Honestly, I'd be surprised if anything. The likely answer is that you should be using a better wax and/or waxing more often. Oxidation happens from the degradation of the gelcaot by the sun when not protected. Even fully protected, it can still happen to some extent. It sounds like you're...

Don, what the weight of the truck and boat? And what was the weight of just the truck?

Yup, understood. But at the stanchion base would be totally fine for this application. It wouldn't be something where I would leave a fender there 24/7 without being there - but for your use... more than adequate and it's free!

You could hang it from the stanchion base as that would be much stronger. Or, install a fender cleat - the kind with the little, nylon peg would work perfect and be super easy to install. You can screw it into the horizontal surface there - that area will have MORE than enough meat for a...

Don, I think you're making this more complicated than it has to. Deducting the weight of your OB's and fuel, etc, is not what you want to do. You need to keep those weights in there. In fact, you should be weighing the boat with full fuel tanks, batteries and all gear that you would normally...

You should be able to pull them off. Just old wiring.

True! Just an FYI, on the stbd side of the bracket, there is a hole (about an inch in diameter, give or take). If it's still legible, there's a small picture of an outboard embossed there with an arrow. Inside that hole is a slot for a large screwdriver. Unscrew that till it stops and you...

You're getting there! But don't fool yourself about the trim pump - air bubbles won't stop the motor from energizing, making noise and trying to the lift the engine... only electricity can do that :)

Cupholders come in many different sizes. Measure. Is the cupholder "area" sufficient for rod holder use? Most places where cupholders are installed are thin, maybe 1/4" or so, fiberglass. Even just for rod storage while running, make sure you beef up underneath.

That makes sense, Doc. The engines I've experienced that are down a cylinder have been V8s - no noticeable difference - not even rough. But they still had 7 good ones, whereas with a 4-cylinder, that's 25% down. 2-Strokes are beasts, for sure!

I've only ever had a loose plug on stern drives, but there was never a change in sound (at least that I could tell). I wonder why the difference in an OB? Especially... what would cause it to get louder? Curious.

Jason, you may have misinterpreted what I wrote. I meant it as a POSITIVE thing. No money involved. But, to be honest, expecting a small boat to be able to go WOT in rough conditions IS "user error". And, with lesser chop, you'd be able to use more up trim. Remember, you did mention that...

User error. As I said above, at least this was a "free" fix :)

Thanks, Fish. That boat originally only had a hawse pipe. When I added the windlass, the "hole" for the windlass would be slightly off center - so it meant filling the hole and then redrilling. Problem is, you would end up seeing some of the epoxy filler. So I either had to spend quite a few...

But... was I correct in what I was assuming? You didn't clarify what I asked about.

Did you check the fuse (or do you have a breaker?) for the pump? If that's good, I would at least start at where you had success before. Inspect the connections REAL well. You can also check for +V at these connections. Sounds like you need to do the same thing the T&T - check at the motor...