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Are you referring to the large rectangular pieces down the center of your deck, or the round pie hole inspection ports, and their frames?

Don't you have access to the anchor locker via the vee berth in the cabin? I did something similar when installing a windlass on my 225. I replaced the original hatch with a thick piece of starboard, so that I could restore to original if I wanted. Mine has 2 hinges on the port side, but I...

The foam should be covered with a layer of batting. The wrap makes it a lot easier to keep everything together getting the covers off and on.

"That’s why I asked for measurements from the deck to the highest point of the top." Not every one here was in the Navy. I suspect that when you ask for a deck to top of hardtop measurement, a lot of guys are going to be starting from the deck of their boat :wink: I am also guessing that the...

Don't assume that the wood braces/cross members are just supporting the hatch. I suspect they are also giving some support to the deck, as well. I think they run side-to-side on my 220.

Remember that overall height can vary by several inches, depending on trailer type and set-up. Will the boat go in with the bimini up? If it's long term winter storage under the garage, and a single axle, you could put really small trailer tires on it for the winter.

I see that you have not done the Gulf coast, yet. Have you read Peter Jenkins' book, Along the Coast of America? Not a Looper book, but a very entertaining account of a non-boater who bought a Grady White, and really got into the details of a slow trip from the Keys to Brownsville, Texas. He is...

This might be interesting, description says it is 1 1/4 inch tubing. For that price, cut it to fit and pay someone to weld it together. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fishing-Rack-B ... Swcu5UMh53

That picture makes me want to order a new gasket, tale the cover off, and grease the hell out of mine, if not too late.

The problem with the one you pictured is the angle of the rod holder is fixed by the top and bottom mounting design. If that bimini were level, the rods would stick back over the cockpit at the same angle as the rear leg on the bimini top frame, getting in the way of casting and fighting fish...

You will probably hear from Tom the Tabman at Bennett before long. They now have the electric Bolt line, and I am pretty sure there is a conversion.

Green Mountain, what did it cost you to have your hatches re-cored? I am looking at doing the same on at least the rear hatch on a '93 Tournament 22. Mine is getting spongy to walk on, as well. Grady told me that marine plywood had not been invented in '93, and they were cored with small blocks...

Also look at Palmetto Trooper. https://www.thehulltruth.com/fishing-mi ... s-too.html

When in the water, make a mark, or a mental note, where the water line is. On the trailer, measure from that mark to the ground, and subtract from the ground up to the bottom of lower unit. That is your actual draft at float. On plane or plowing will differ.

With that design, you definitely want to find a way to cushion the ends of the steps, and have your winch handle on the opposite side, because it is only a matter of time before you stand up and a step catches you in the back of the head.

See if this works. https://www.thehulltruth.com/g/picture/8534073

The fixed ladders in front are great, had one on my Glacier Bay trailer. I am 68, and every advantage helps.

I think that if I had to load solo at a ramp similar to the one at the top of the pic, that when I backed my trailer into the water, I would have a line to the front of the trailer, and already between my guide posts, and I would walk the other end to the boat and attach it. That way, you are...

An old post from 10 years ago. Post your # for comparison. Postby Maguire208 » Dec Thu 27, 2007 10:05 pm From what I've been told your grady's HIN's should look something like this- NTLAD(xxx)G900 NTL-Grady's manufacturer code AD-Adventure model xxx-your hull's serial # G-This letter...

Don't know where you are, or how cold it gets, but if you want to leave the lower unit tilted up, pour it full of RV antifreeze and put a plastic tub over the prop to keep water out. I would want mine out to prevent corrosion from stray electric current, especially in a marina.