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Don't know where its made, but this one says, Yamaha New OEM Dual Twin Engine Mount Binnacle Remote Control 704-48207-22-00, for $300. "Brand new, genuine Yamaha Dual Twin Engine Mount Binnacle Remote Control. This is a factory original equipment accessory, not aftermarket."

Takes about 30 seconds to find it on Amazon for less than a third of the price. Another 30 seconds and you can probably find white, if not from the same vendor. https://www.amazon.com/HERO-LED-WL-SQ-1 ... +led+white

Look at the hoses connected to them, and see if you can get a size off the hose. Actual hole size might be a quarter inch larger than inside diameter of the fitting, not the hose. If some are cracked, just give a jerk on the hose, and you will know the hole size right quick.

Did the hulls actually change, or just the numbers. Boats always grow, they never shrink.

There are plenty of other plastics that will serve the same purpose, and have better gluing properties.

So, it took a year to list it, and a day to sell it?

And, on second look, this is the only one of the 105 that has what appears to be a threaded hose connection, instead of barbed. For whatever reason?

Just a suggestion, I have not used. Had not noticed the top mount screws, but after an ebay search, of 105 stainless deck drains, none had the threaded ring on the bottom. Here is a very low profile Gemlux: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gemlux-89522-Lo ... Ls&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90D-MIRRORED-ST ... 1438.l2649

While you're down there attaching new ends to those handles, I recommend replacing the drain plug in your seacocks with a grease fitting, to keep those moving easily. Pump the grease in with the valve closed, or it will go into your system.

If you don't run it over 16mph, it must be a new to you boat. Are you sure you know what the tabs are doing? It sounds like you may be running with one down, either operator error, or malfunction. Visually inspect them on the trailer, or at the dock, while someone else operates the switches to...

If you have a stern piling, run a line from it to a point on the dock in front of your boat, so that you have a foot or so of clearance at the nearest point of the bow and the line. That gives you a Vee shaped slip to practice in, and takes the neighbors boat out of play. Also with a stern...

Picture of your slip? Floating docks, or fixed docks? Piling or no piling between the stern of your boat and your neighbor? Tide swing in feet?

350 YAMAHA FOUR-STROKE Single Engine Size: 5.3L Test Date: 4/26/2007 Prop Size*: 16 1/4 X 17 SWS XL SDS Weight as Tested: 7799 lb. (including persons, fuel, water, gear, engines & accessories) Hardtop: No Bow Pulpit: No Bottom Paint: No Optimum Cruise: 29.2 MPH @ 3700 RPM Top...

Working in a tight spot, I find it simpler to use a pump with a built in float or sensor than trying to do separate.

How do you get a warranty for your own lifetime on a Chrysler 300, unless you are a hundred years old?

Yeah, GW told me the original ply was in little pieces, which doesn't make sense to me. It's not like they were using slices of end grain wood.

I am on my third Suburban, with over 200K on each in NC. I bet that I don't have 10 miles total in 4wd, and I have never used it on a boat ramp, lake or coastal, and I have owned boats for 30 years.

Thanks for the reply. Do you know what thickness plywood was used for the core on the rebuild? GW told me that marine plywood was not produced until 1997, which surprised me, and all their boats after 1997 had it. Mine is a '93.

As a brick and mortar retailer, I suggest that you buy local, but a simple search turns up many sources. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... d&_sacat=0 https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... +starboard