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You can buy the hose as a pre-formed 90 degree. Consider silicone hose - more expensive but easier to work with.

Google "steering wheel cap marine" and know your diameter. I replaced mine but not sure where I got it.

I pulled the Groco pump and installed a new one with silicone hoses to make taking things apart if necessary. No Y-valve needed. I do like MAX366's idea of inverting the pump - reduces lift and will keep impeller wet.

I got a similar response from Carolyn @ GW but if you look at my photo it is clearly plugged. I don't pull the hatch every year so I don't know if its holding water. Maybe this year I'll replace the fuel tanks and see what is really going on here.

I'm not sure about that on mine. The one to the left has a solid plug in it. I tried to get an answer from Grady White on this. Get conflicting answers. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/removing-aux-tank-on-1999-268-islander.30598/page-3

3M 4000 uv stable, not as aggressive as 5200/4200. This Grady White washing the tanks recommendation is confusing. No water should get in there if the hatch and ports are sealed up. Unclear how the water gets out of the compartment.

I have Grady White lettering off my 1997 Islander when I painted it. They are hanging up in my trailer and will now be used. Check size and I'll check mine. You are welcome to them.

Chartplotters are not that deep. You may have enough clearance. Hold the wood plug in with duct tape and epoxy the plug in.

You should glass in a piece of plywood. Back it with something to hold in place. Grind out a tapered edge around the compass. One or two layers of glass cloth over the taper. Gelcoat over the repair and sand smooth. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get this optically "flat". Probably a few...

Yes. Older Grady White hardtops and hatches have problems with chipping gelcoat. Potato chip size chips! I did the work myself. Repaired rigger base cracks, added reinforcement, refinished including non-skid. The 1/2 tower was sanded, then sandblasted, aluminum primer, primer and 4 coats of...

I'm assuming you are talking about the aluminum 1/2 tower and rocket launchers. I went thru this last year. I took the hardtop off for repair. Then decided to tackle the pitting of the aluminum. In the end I wound up sandblasting and painting it. Look at some of the suggestions in this thread...

Latest version of rope chain splice. Been working great for a few dozen drops reef fishing. Lewmar Profish 700 sucks it right up! All strands are fed through the first link criss-crossed as with a normal rope/chain splice. From there the strands are separated. One strand from each of the four...

My experience was with GW original thru hulls which were nylon. My below the waterline thru hulls are metal assume bronze but not sure. https://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml

Surveyor told me that most boats sink in the driveway now days. As SkunkBoat says - get the bow up high and leave the drain plug out. I own a self storage business and allow customers to store boats. I have had several that left drain plugs in, batteries went dead and they filled up with water...

What do you expect to accomplish with new props? Write it down before you talk to Prop Gods. I swapped my 3-blades for 4-blades and dropped 2" of pitch. Remarkable improvement in mid-range performance. No loss of top end. Fuel economy wasn't a priority so I can't tell you if it changed. Exactly...

I didn't see a mounting template but here is the manual. Like DennisG01 said - make one out of cardboard. https://raymarine.app.box.com/s/rvhycb6x1brzo64921k5tsqwv2ica3j6/file/3274104049

I know it's a little late but Marlon thru hulls below the waterline are not the best choice. I would go with bronze. Above the waterline the Marlon is ok but stainless is a better choice. Marlon thru hulls will pop the mushroom if hit against a dock or something inside the boat. I broke a...

I did my above the waterline thru hulls this past Summer. GemLux stainless. Nice pieces competitive with other stuff out there but better quality. Water most likely coming in thru anchor locker/windlass. Possible you have a rub rail leak but you should see evidence of it inside. Best answer is...

All power washers are not created equal. A high pressure rotary power washer can help remove some of the ablative bottom paint. Maybe smooth it out a bit before painting. I painted my boat this year and freshened the bottom up with a coat of Pettit Hydrocoat. The bottom still looks good even...

Piezo horn is a separate part that I have changed in the past. Not sure what the black box is/does but it's on a new dual switch assembly ($450 at dealer!).