Hard to say without seeing what you have, but if it's what I'm thinking, Bomar/Pompanette makes a different window seal that has a groove in it to accept the pop-in screen. Check out their website.
I have a 2-stroke Yamaha 250HP on a bracket. It gets up on plane VERY easily with minimal throttle input. I can touch 40mph on a good day - not a speed demon by any means, but plenty fast enough and low to mid range power is great. I run about 27-29MPH around 3,800RPM burning around 11gph...
You should still really verify directly at the battery, but yes, it sounds like something in the charging system is kaput. There are a couple parts in the system - the stator is another one - so you really need to follow the diagnosing steps in the service manual to avoid throwing parts at it...
OK, making more sense, now. Now, the "water to the bowl" could simply be due to a clog... whether it's from an agressive eater or wiper or things being flushed that shouldn't have been.
Are you 100% sure the tank was ACTUALLY full or were you basing that on other factors (like the water...
Nicholas, I hope you don't mind that I "LOL'd" a little bit... since the kill switch has been right there in front of you the whole time! :)
One thing to add... sometimes the little clip gets partially broken and doesn't pull the "pin" out far enough to fully disengage the switch. You could...
Adding on to what Doc said... get yourself an inexpensive volt meter and measure directly at the battery. Using readouts at the dash is not helpful without first knowing a TRUE baseline. Dirty connections are another "error" factor.
As noted above, you should be seeing 13 to 14 volts with...
What kind of system is it? Vacuflush? You said you were initially thinking of fresh water filling the tank.
Can you elabaorate on what "water to the bow" means and how you're thinking this plays in with a full tank?
Is it "full" based on a gauge or based on you looking at the tank? Either of those could be misleading... floats for the senders can stick... tanks can "look" full based on discoloration on the inside.
It may help to know the year/model of boat.
It's not that simple to just "pop something in there and re-gel". There's much more to it. To do it right, the plywood that you fit in there has to be properly glassed in. This requires sanding the existing area down/back at least a coupe inches (ideally, it would be more, but this isn't a...
Jack, I keep a wax ring on the boat for plugging holes (emergency type stuff), but I'm curious about one thing... it seems plausible that some of the wax could end up staying IN the tube. How would you easily remove that?
If you shoot water into the fuel compartment and water drains into the aft bilge, you have confirmed there is no plug.
Put your phone on a stick if you still find the need to.
Agree with not letting it sit too long. I don't know how long is too long - but I don't think I'd do more than a week when doing the "power clean" ration - maybe that would be fine, I don't know. But it doesn't take that long to clean things so I've never tried. A few days is the longest I've...
Bleach. Put about 5 gallons of water in there with a cup of bleach and push it through your faucets, too. Drive around for a while like that for a few days. Empty it. Check the pump filter. Fill and empty a couple times with fresh water and you should be good. In the future, treat your...
I've never used one, but if I couldn't figure out, for sure, if it was salt water or rain water, I'd pick up a salinity meter and compare it to the water the boat is sitting in. If it IS salt water, I would imagine the reading shoulds be close.
Yes, there is no worry about issues with the tank, itself. But there could be with the various electrical connections and metal hardware. Yes, any water that gets in there will drain to the aft bilge as long as you don't have the drain tube plugged.