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Since it just started happening, it sounds like the switch failed in the on postion. Weird as they would normally fail in the off position. But, since as you said, it just started happening, that seems like the only answer.

Sounds like "crazed" plastic. It's only held in by adhesive caulking you see running around the edge - it's first bedded in the caulk. BoatLife Life Caulk would be an excellent choice, although there's certainly others.

As noted above, because of the oxidation, there is no all-in-one answer here. The older a boat gets, the more options there are. You'll just need to do trial and error. I assume you'll be compounding the hull, first, to expose good gel as it wouldn't make sense to paint over an oxidized...

You're welcome! We all started our "boat knowledge" at zero. Some of us just started at a younger age ;)

Rubber dimples are simply a waterproof cover to keep the little pop-up breakers safe. As long as the rubber covers feel floppy, the breaker isn't tripped. Otherwise, just push the breaker back down/in.

Just thinking outloud here... any "rack" or "dividers" that you create will cut down on the amount of space you have for Plano boxes. You could just simply stack them on top of each other (it's not like you're going to have 10 boxes up there). Then maybe a little bungee or two to keep them in...

No, but it won't be hard to adapt a different one. A cover plate can be made to cover the old hole and screw holes (using starboard, for example) then cut the new chute and through-bolt through both the starboard and deck. Wiring is wiring is wiring so that's even easier.

I don't have the answer, but... The 1/4" bolts are more than adequate. Since it seems like you might be able to get to the washer/nut (or bolt head... whatever is on the "boat side" of things... maybe add a small backer plate for good measure? It wouldn't have to be big, at all, to make...

Sometimes the pre-mixed gel works, sometimes it doesn't. Actually, plenty of times it doesn't when going to an older boat. One experience with it working doesn't mean it always will. FYI, don't use sand. It's can be uncomfortably rough and doesn't last as long. Get the non-skid additive...

Non-skid is still gelcoat, so if you want to shine it up, the process is the same as the rest of the gelcoat. To repair hairline cracks, drill a small hole at the end to stop it from spreading. Widen the crack before filling/repairing. There is a good thread in the tech forum about...

What tore? Can a local upholsterer help?

FYI, under normal circumstances, an OB can be manually titled up by hand. You shouldn't need a jack or a winch. Just lift it up. HD sells a strong vinegar solution - 30%. I've use that to help free up a stuck release screw. Other times, I've used a manual impact screwdriver... and other...

It depends on what you're doing. If you're using DC accessories, then leave the DC switch on.

Mine started out as an I/O, but no, not very common. Back in the day, it was an easy way to get big power. I think they even made an inboard at one time.

Danforth/fluke-style will work well in mud and sand, too. It doesn't do really well in heavy weeds though since it can float/skip along the top of the weeds, sometimes. But, if you're happy with the performance of a fluke style (which is a good anchor style), then stick with what you know...

I would definitely not mess with it. If it's a good trailer, let her be! Trailers are, by no means, a piece of sophisticated engineering - but at the same time, they designed a certain way and they work perfectly well that way. Don't mess with it. If it's the wrong trailer for the boat...

Interesting. When you say "softwall" hose - do you mean something like in that picture? A reinforced vinyl hose? Reason I ask is that my Sea Ray used PEX lines directly off the tank fitting and that was never an issue (nor in any other setup that I know of with PEX). Just wondering if you...

For my motor, I haven't found the need to alter the factory gap spec. I also don't change them every year - I check them - and give them a quick brushing/cleaning/gap checking - but I put them right back in unless there's an obvious issue.

Yes, I always check the gap, first. If you're questioning them, go ahead and pull them out and check. You can "read" the plugs, too. Make note of which cylinder they come out of.

You should be able to fully verify if it's SS or Al by tapping on the edge with a tool or seeing how a razor blade feels against the edge. You could also just take it off and feel it. Of course, this is assuming you have experience with props to be able to do the comparison. However, you said...