Shot the hardtop yesterday. AwlGrip coarse non-skid. Couldn't spray it - too large for my gun. Salt shaker method. Didn't like it at all. Clumps up, poor distribution.
Sanded off this morning. Re-shot it using Interlux non-skid. Smaller granules - able to spray it. Much better. I didn't want an...
Got the tower painted. AwlGrip. One coat aluminum primer, 2 coats 545 primer, 3 coats of AwlCraft 2000. Did an awesome job bringing back the pitted aluminum.
Photos: Pitted corner of tower sanded out, after sandblasting, after paint.
I disagree. There is a lot of information on this site, available from GW customer service and the old brochures. The internet and this site are full of unqualified opinions and incorrect know-it-all answers. Every member (every internet user for that matter) has to sort out who is responding...
I have taken the cable tie mounting squares with the adhesive back, pull the paper off and put a dab of 4200 or 5200 and stick up there. When cured you can reach up and install wires and cable tie. Also a good ides to clean the fiberglass off with lacquer thinner first - nothing sticks to the...
After a marathon starting last night when the rain stopped I prepped the primer and today got 5 coats on the Starboard side. Port side has 6. Over 2 1/2 quarts of topcoat + converter + reducer + accelerator for each side. A few defects but that's the beauty of AwlCraft 2000 - repairable finish...
OK so here's the teaser! For this FL winter it stays this way. But in the Spring we start again. What do you think? Leave bottom black or go white? Swap rub rail for white with dark insert? No striping or GW logo?
Console bubble has been painted but gunnels have not (Spring 2023).
I was quoted $10,000 for a job like that.
If you are looking at older GW's (mine included) it's just a matter of time before the transom will have to be re-done. Difficult to keep them completely dry. If the repair is being done by a good shop this may be an opportunity to buy a boat with a...
Carolyn at GW Just Service got back to me. Discontinued but they suggested this:
https://www.integritymarinecorp.com/grady-white
They are REPRESENTING BARBOUR PLASTICS.
Thanks. I have a email out to GW customer service too.
In the spring I'm pulling the deck rail and the rub rail. The gunnel's have cracked gelcoat. I'm going to refinish down to the diamond non-skid. Install new rub rail. Put the deck rail back on. The present one is all beat up and the wrong...
I'm looking to replace the complete rub rail on my 268 Islander 1997. Going to a white or slightly off-white with a color insert. Anyone know of a source? I want something with the same profile as OEM.
The bilge water from the forward compartment to the aft compartment flow through a void under the fuel tanks. It starts and ends with a piece of 1" PVC but I don't believe its continuous. I tried to snake mine but could only go so far. Probably can't find the hole in the bulkhead to the next...
I would not use the 3M filler or polyester resin. Same with MarineTex. They are only good for cosmetic repairs. What you are looking at is a double layer of fiberglass - top and bottom half of the boat. Screw holes have been damaged and won't hold screws. You need a hard and strong material. See...
I had a few panels under the helm that were that open-end plywood with a melamine finish. Ends swollen and staining the deck. I went with "Seafoam" color King Starboard. They look factory new.
I think that is the right choice for your repair.
I have a 1-bank NOCO installed. When the ProMariner 3-bank goes I will consider the NOCO. Not sure it fixed amperage or load shifts to charge batteries.
Not sure why it's blistering. They look like repairs or plugged holes. See if there is fiberglass under the blisters.
You can do a quick repair with MarineTex. It's an epoxy and works well. You will have to tint it with a tiny bit of brown to get a color match.