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Has the engine been sitting unused for a while before doing the test? Was the engine cold or warm when you did it?

Other companies could make something similar, aside from Moen. Measure the diameter of the hole and just stop by a HD or Lowes - or even a local mom& pop hardware store. Even if it's a little bigger than the hole, it should work since you can form the SS to fit.

Cut-off wheel, grinder, handsaw, file. Take your pick. Why is there so much extra? Did you do something different? Maybe post a pic. I'm a little confused because this would be the easiest part of the job so I'm wondering why the question - meaning, there must be more to it than just what's...

I removed the old hoses the same way as Doc's mechanic did. Cut them right at the end of each barb. You can use a good set of dykes to cut the wire and nibble away at the hose. Be as destructive as you want on anything that you're not saving. Depending on access... sawzall, Dremel cutoff...

The main deck hatch was built differently than the little livewell hatches. That one will be a solid fiberglass shell - more like what we've been discussing on this thread and the other one. You can make the livewell hatch more like the main one by adding some glass to the shell before adding...

A $30 come-a-long will do the trick. A large, overhead tree branch will work. Or, in a garage, put an eye bolt through the ceiling and into a 4x4 that spans a couple rafters. When you break it down, you're only lifting 5 or 6 hundred pounds and it's just 4 nuts to remove.

Not so sure I agree with your shop. Measuring on land is one thing, but real life experience is another. You had real life experience showing the plate was under water - that trumps measuring on land. Whether raising it will make the difference you are looking for, or not, has to be done to...

Agree - and good point.

Correct to everything the guys were saying about what I was asking. Plus... knowing that you were using muffs (which is fine)... when you first turned on the water (before starting the engine), water was squirting out all over the place (out from underneath the muffs). Then, when you started...

How long did you run the engine for, checking to see if water came out the pee-hole? Was this backed into water (or a tub) or on a hose? If you hook up a hose to the flush connection on the side of the motor, does water go through?

I don't think anybody particularly didn't like that option. It's just another option, that's all. We use them on our dog so we don't have wipe her feet after being outside in a muddy yard. It all depends on the dog - some of them won't like it and will gnaw at it constantly. Probably not...

Probably referring to the fuel line size. Two pickups would be one for each engine. Most times, if an ASV is sticking, it can be cleaned out with Brakleen. It's just a spring/ball setup.

That's what I would think, too.

Could also be a clogged vent fitting or a dip in a vent line with fuel/water in it creating the clog. Try taking the fuel cap off to verify.

That's really weird that there's no strainer. Either Grady never used one or a previous owner changed things up. Odd.

Squares or full sheet of ply... Both ways can be equally successful. Go with whatever method you're more comfortable with. Along the lines of what's been mentioned above when using full sheets, you do run the possibility of NOT getting full adhesion -- air pockets between the plywood and the...

How do you plan on using the batteries? Will you have lot's of time of battery use with the engines off or will the engines be running most of the time. Big difference in what a recommended battery type may be. However, within a "bank", never mix battery types.

Just thinking outloud here a bit. We (you and I and every other DIY'r out there) are also rebuilding things backwards as compared to how Grady (and any manufacturer, really) does it. Once we tear things apart, we're building the core THEN adding the topskin (deck). Grady builds the deck...

I suppose. It hasn't been my experience, though. But at the same time, it's not like I do this for a profession. The entire floor is straight and level - both hatches are flat as could be - and the transom I did on a smaller boat looks flat to me. Couple other hatches and such on other boats...

Gotcha. So, the normal thing to do with a normal-rotation prop is to rotate the aft end of the anode (the one under the anti-ventilation plate) to starboard. Or, looking down at the anode, rotate it CCW. It's not an exact science, but idea is to offset prop-walk (the prop wants to pull...