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That area you are talking sounds fine. I wouldn't worry one bit about the screws protruding into the anchor locker. Keep them short so they don't tangle with the rope. Epoxy the holes to avoid water intrusion into a wood core and finish with a good sealant and there will be zero issues...

Although... :) ... a strong argument could be made either way. 1) I don't trailer often so I don't want to spend the money on the guides 2) I don't trailer often so I'm usually "rusty" and want any extra help I can get 3) I trailer a lot and feel very comfortable without them 4) I trailer a lot...

I don't, but I've been there (wondering which bank is which) with other boats. Rather than me asking others and hoping mine was wired exactly the same, I just disconnected one of the bank's negative leads and then took note to the switch as to what 12V items were still working. Then I wrote...

The gas, nowadays, definitely doesn't last as long as it used to. But in 2-3 weeks? No. Especially not to the point that it's as obvious as you mentioned. But as you elluded to, who knows how long it was sitting in their tanks and what type of additives, if any, they added. Could it have...

If you have the optional, "aux charging wire", that most Yamahas have... then both batteries will always be charged, regardless of the switch position. If not, then which battery is being charged is dependent on the battery switch.

GW doesn't make paint. However, SEM is a manufacturer of vinyl paint that would work well.

Sure, go for it! I know you were just joking around, but just in case... the only place they really rub will be against the rubrail.

The white PVC tube ones will be just fine. Just look for a brand/model where the metal part extends a bit further up inside the PVC. I think some of them only go 18" or 20" while others may go closer to 3'. The PVC won't have any chance of marring the fiberglass or smoodging your stickers...

They are definitely quieter - no question about that. Do they last longer? 50/50. Compared to standard-issue spring suspension, the torsion will balance the weight better between the two axles. Some spring suspensions use an equalizer in between the two springs to help.

Although pulling batteries and such isn't a huge deal, before you do that... Can you reach your cell phone in there? Put it on video mode. Or, tape it to a stick so you get it up in there further.

How long ago did you send it? It may take a couple days for email responses - not abnormal from companies - they probably get lot's of emails so it takes a while to respond to all of them. Best to call them directly (have an email/pic ready to send while you're talking).

No question - you gotta keep a close eye on things, for sure.

" I could hear the water running out in the hull of the boat." <<< That sentence isn't very clear. But, it sounds like you are saying the pump-out hose has a leak or is not attached to the tank and the water that was being poured into the hose was leaking out of the hose and inside the boat...

Use the tabs more. Drop them down a bit more and you can probably keep the engines up some for better efficiency. Dropping the tabs affect efficiency less than dropping the engines. Use them tabs - that's what they're there for! :)

Try wetsanding/compounding the gelcoat that was NOT under the sticker a little heavier in your blending process. That way you'll expose fresher gelcoat. The color that is under the sticker will eventually fade and blend in better. But from my experience, there's no real "quick fix" for this...

It's not adhesive. It's the "original" gelcoat. It's higher underneath the sticker because that was never degradaded by UV or compounded. Very normal - as is the color difference. Which, by the way, the color of the gel under your sticker... that's your original color - not the other way around.

Your welcome. I should add that I don't know FOR SURE that your hole size is 20x20 - just that it's the most common. But, either way, it's easy enough to measure then find one that fits. Most likely, it's still going to be a commonly available size. I have "heard" that some people have...

The most commonly used size for a deck hatch is 20x20. In the end, it's just a 20x20 hole - fill it up with any brand you want. Replacement is dirt simple. Depending on how bad it is, you could try buffing it.

Most transducer's are made by Airmar - you might be able to ID the transducer by looking on their website or, better yet, contact them directly. You could also call Furuno and ask them if they would know if it would work.

It sounds like it's not a huge piece? But, regardless, yes, go ahead and run the boat. You will see absolutely zero difference in performance. The skegs primary job is simply to protect the prop. Personally, I'm not a fan of those skeg guards. The material is typically SS, which is harder...