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That looks great. Obviously the CNC cuts with the curves and borders are way better than my straight lines. My deck was well worn and getting a little slick from 20 years of sliding coolers. I had nothing to lose to try it. I'm not sure how well it would stick on brand new diamond non-skid. It...

Took it off the top of the tank today was pretty easy. The motor is seized. Floats for level sensors were all broken off and rattling around. I’m just gonna block up that outlet. Put the top back on hook up the vent hose and I’ll just use a pump out station.

This is a 265 express Smaller pulpit but probably same bow configuration

I've used GE Silicone2 (outdoor type for gutters,windows not bathroom) for years. I like it . holds up well and comes out easy when you want to get in there (I remove the deck every year to clean tanks) Edit: They call it GE Supreme Silicone now not Silicone2 I used 4000UV last season. Very...

I kicked it around and decided to try it on the cheap . $268 for 4 strips. Lots of leftover because of where I put seams. Started today after lunch mostly done by dinner. Needs some black silicone when I seal up the hatches. No it’s not a professional job. If I like it then someday maybe pay...

well, yes, the originals were aluminum too and the screws got stuck after many years of salt. They do make SS rivnuts but you need an expensive tool. I was able to use a cheap kit from Harbor Freight with aluminum rivnuts. I spray them with WD once a year. You will need new gasket material I...

look at RIVNUTS...

separated by a common language eh?

They should be the right prop. I have the Suzuki 4x 15.25 x 22 (pn 990c0-00510-22p and 990c0-51L-22p )which have worked well on several 265s with 200 zukes. If I didn't already pay for zuke props I would have tried those LSF4 16 x20s.

Bless You! hehehehe I'll stick to twisting it in with the twins!

I have a big top opening with a tempress hatch, the toilet is out, and the bulkhead behind the toilet is off I'm thinking maybe I can remove the Groco unit without pulling the tank. I got the vent off just need to get the "out" hose off. Looks like I could remove a bunch of screws (or Nuts?)...

I have mine torn apart to get to it. Can't get hoses off. No leverage to pull or push or twist. I wanted to pull the Groco macerator out and maybe be able to fix it. Clean out the tank.. I don't want to cut hoses and commit. Hoses actually look great. I will probably button it back up and...

once a year while its out for the winter. I pull up the full deck hatch. Clean with soapy water. Let it dry all winter. Reseal the hatch in the spring.

The slip is a bonus.No trailering....It would make me look for wider 25. Sea Hunt makes an 8'11' beam 25 CC "Escape" that looks like a nice fit for your needs. It can handle a single 425. Sea Hunts 25 Gamefish is more of an offshore boat with 9'2" beam.

hehehe Are you sure there is one? Is there an antenna? Speakers?... follow the wires. Is there a remote? Is it a black box stereo?

yep the point is that if you go up with the "small" end and out the hardtop, you have a smaller hole and to remove you can pull it back into the hardtop. The other way you have to have a bigger hole or pull the whole cable up from MFD, thru pipe and out the hardtop..

My AP pump is under the outside sink, behind the tackle drawers. Power cable reached my under gunnel Stbd side On/Off switch. 9ft I think...maybe 11? Your windlass is not ideal on that 10awg from the terminal block. When you run it, it will cause a big voltage drop. I suppose people get away...

bigger is bigger. BUT... the 257 isn't any wider. Thats when you start noticing a difference. You really need to stand on them to compare. IMO if you aren't going offshore, skip the twins. Even the 257 can run a single 300 or 350.

The AP draws a lot of current and its on a lot. If you connect it to the fuse panel it will share the 10 awg wires feeding the panel with everything else on the panel. Its not so much a problem of too much current for the 10 awg to carry but the voltage drop across the wire caused by everything...

I think there is still a mfg date stamped somewhere on the block. There is no "Model/Year" anymore. All outboard makers did that precisley because they don't want to have to discount "old" new inventory. New is new no matter how old it is. If the model makes a big change, they change the part...