Crack in Transom

[Tucker]

Re: '99 208 Escape
Gents,
Just noticed a crack in the transom. It's at the corner on the "U" right where the horizontal part of the transom meets the vertical part. There's a screw in the plastic molding where the crack starts. Bad place to put a screw. I tried squeezing 5200 in it but It's so fine I don't think anything got in there. There are no bulges, looks like a stress crack in the gell coat. Is there any reason to be alarmed.

 

[sfmac]

Probably just the gel coat layer...... I would fill crack with Marine Tex and keep an eye on it. You can read more at www.marinetex.com.

Good Luck!

 

[wahoo33417]

Steve: I note that your first post is to help someone else. Nice to see and welcome to the forum.

Rob

 

[BobP]

You will not know for sure unless you have it checked professionally.

If your model has the alum trim covering the top edge of transom, when the trim is removed, all can be checked out.

I suggest you wait until end of season to look into it.

Monitor condition in this area regularly until then, if it remains the same then there is nothing to be alarmed about.

If you want to try to seal it, you will have to get an old fashioned soda can opener and v shape the crack a bit, then marine tex it or finger wipe it with caulk, for the time being.

 

[merlin25]

If you remove the aluminum trim covering the transom can it be reinstalled or do you need to get a new trim piece?

 

[BobP]

It is screwed and caulked in place, you can reuse existing one, you may want to do a better job at sealing the wood than just using caulk though.

 

[BobP]

Depends how easy it comes off, in other words, how well it was bonded in place.

 

[fishhrd]

My 1996 209 has done the same thing. It has aluminum trim but the cracks are in the corners coming from under the trim. I have not done anything with mine yet but it has concerned me. My boat has been in the shop for a month though with motor problems and will be there for atleast another month. 120 hours on a 2006 honda 225 and it through out a lower unit. My fishing season is over anyway.

 

[gw204]

If you remove the aluminum trim covering the transom can it be reinstalled or do you need to get a new trim piece?

If you go through all the trouble associated with getting the trim off, don't bother reinstalling it. Throw it in the trash and glass the joint.

 

[Tucker]

The screw for the plastic trim is right in the radius of the motor well. I can't believe that the factory guy that installed it didn't think it was the perfect place to begin a stress crack. I'm a little confused with the aluminum trim mentioned? Assuming this is the piece directly under the motor. How's water going to get in there. Through the screw holes? It's glassed under it right?

 

[gw204]

It's glassed under it right?

Wrong. Just caulked. Over time the caulking breaks down (or isn't even applied properly to begin with) and lets water get under the trim piece and/or come in through the screw holes. It's probably the no. 1 cause of transom rot on Grady's w/ transom mounted outboards.

 

[merlin25]

If water had gotten in the transom over the years under the trim or through screw holes.... what are the signs of transom rot?

 

[BobP]

Wood rot, in any part of the boat, starts with first getting wet.

The wood weakens but still looks normal, then as it goes further it eventually turns very dark, looks like cinders from a fire, and crumbles in your hand looking more like a handfull of top soil. You basically shovel or shop vac it to remove it.

The nature of boat construction allows water in but never lets it out, so it can never dry on it's own.

Takes 5- 10 yrs for this top soil creation process, I would say, from first time of point of entry.

If you have access to the end grain via taking at least two screws out, try to drive into it an ice pick, see what happens. If you don't know the response of plywood end grain expected, get a piece of plywood even the cheap sheating stuff and try to shove into the end grain the same ice pick, then you will know.

By the way, surveyors will not do this since it involves a screwdriver- taking- something- apart.

If you shove the pick into the boat's wood end grain and it goes in like butter, enough said.

Cracks or no cracks in gelcoat doesn't mean or not there's a problem or potential problem brewing, but instead something one needs to know when boat shopping since the value is effected greatly by the findings, and what you expect to have to take care of or not as a new owner.

Can use same procedure on deck/tank cover screws, not just cutout transoms.

Recaulk screw holes when going back in.

 

[Tucker]

Sorry guys, I'm still not getting it. You mean to tell me that if you remove that aluminum strip the transom isn't completely fiberglass under it? The only exposure is the screw holes right? Take the screws out, run in ice pick probe. If it stops at the end of the drilled hole we're good. If it goes in like it's made from cardboard we got problems. Am I getting it yet?

 

[BobP]

Why do you think Grady used the alum strip ?

 

[merlin25]

With my 226 the outboard sits on the aluminum trim. In order to remove the trim one would have to remove the engine or leave the section of aluminum trim under the motor intact and replace f/g the rest. Neither seems like a good option.[/img]

 

[BobP]

I see I've been responding to three different members, Tucker it' s you post. I'm good for multitasking so no issue, but this is routine, it's all related.

Yes, say it ain't so, but it is!

There are many other places, dozens of individual ones, where water can penetrate the transom, by the way. I bet most don't know it's actually that many.

 

[Tucker]

We'll that's real disapointing. I waited all this time to get Grady-White because I couldn't afford one. Comparable boat is $5k cheaper. Now to know they cut corners and do this simple shit! Should have bought a Bayliner!

 

[BobP]

Merlin, not to leave you out.

You seem more interested in the alum trim than transom (?)

If you are a DIYer, go to Pep Boys and buy the portable engine hoist for 129 bucks, perhaps 10 or 20 buck rebate, get the spreader bar accessory, assemble and lift the motor a few inches after removing the four engine bolts, no reason to disconnect harnesses, lines, etc. then you can save the trim.

While you have the bolts out, ice pick one upper and one lower bolt hole core, in a diagonal selection. Note any water coming out when bolts are removed (not good).

Then sell the hoist on ebay for 100 bucks, it's worth it, I own both.
Good value for the price. The legs actually fold up and it takes up little room in garage.

You will pay about 400 bucks more for this work doen by marina.
Don't forget to caulk engine bolt holes when going back in.

 

[merlin25]

Thanks Bob.

Yes more interested in the trim. When I bought my 226 it had 5200 (I hope) along the edge where the horizontal trim meets the f/g. I also had small cracks in the gel coat at the corners of the motor carve out. I was assuming (hoping) the 5200 was just to get a seal for the trim against the f/g.

This past weekend I was installing a port side swim platform/ladder from a dock (boat was in the water) and when I drilled the hole for the platform closest to the horizontal trim piece there was some moisture/water on the bit like it came out of the transom, but I am not sure if it was water from inside the transom or just water on the hull that had dripped down onto the bit. Needless to say seeing that and a few old posts about transom rot has me a little worried. I guess the first step is to see what is going on under the trim piece. Thanks for the instructions.