Replacing 1983 Seafarer floor/gas tank

[mac83]

So...found out some bad news today. I took off my bracket on the transom for my aux. engine and found something I didn't want to find. :bang The transom is shot. So next weekend, I'll start deconstructing it. I've read through a tutorial that Boatbuilderscentral did on a Seafarer actually, so that should help a lot. I'm a little nervous about starting this project but it's going to get done. I'll post some pics this upcoming weekend. Any tips or recommendations before I get started. Anyone with some expierance in this, how thick is the new transom? Did you use 1/2 or 3/4 inch? Thanks guys.

 

[gw204]

So...found out some bad news today. I took off my bracket on the transom for my aux. engine and found something I didn't want to find. :bang The transom is shot.

Based on how the rest of the boat looked are you really that surprised?

New transom should be 2 x 3/4" at minimum. I've seen conflicting opinions about whether or not to put glass between the layers of ply. I put a layer of 2415 and a layer of 1.5 oz mat between the sheets of ply in my Mako transom. Others says just trowel on some thickened resin. My personal opinion is that both will be adequate for bonding the two sheets together, but the glass may do a little better job of isolating the two sheets should one of them get moisture in it.

 

[Grog]

If you're using epoxy you'll have a strong bond with or without glass between the layers. Polyester doesn't stick that well to wood and vinyl sticks better but not as well as epoxy, the glass helps bonding.

Aren't boats fun? (I'll be tearing a lot apart next year too)

 

[mac83]

So if I were to go with three sheets of 3/4 inch that would put me at 2 1/4 in just wood. Do you think I'd make up the differance in fiberglass?

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Two sheets of 3/4 and one sheet of 1/2", then 1/4" glass (5 layers of 1708) is what you need and what you have. If you use epoxy, just use thickened epoxy between the layers. If you know where all the screws and bolts will go into the transom(make a template of the existed outer skin of your transom), drill your plywood with the exact place and size of the screw holes while you dry fitting it, then take out the plywood transom and over drill by double the size all the holes(if 1/2" hole required, drill 1" hole) then lay flat the transom plywood and fill all the holes with thickened epoxy. This way ALL your holes that penetrate your transom plywood are WATERPROOF.

Then use the existed holes to "pull" tight the plywood against the outer skin.

He approved everything :mrgreen:

 

[Grog]

NEM, nice dog!

Have you ever had a problem with the epoxy chipping/cracking when drilling the hole out?

I'm getting ahead of myself but still on topic, I'll be doing my transom from the outside in 2 years. I've been using vinylester for my work so far but may use epoxy for the transom since the wood has to be a little smaller to fit in requiring more filling. Have you had any issues with gellcoat sticking to glass laid with epoxy?

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

No problem on chipping when drilling, it gets hot and soft around the drill, but that's about it.
I never gel cote , i am painting, but there is a way to do gel cote on epoxy.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Oh, Diamond (the dog) thanks you. :wink:

 

[gw204]

Another option is to sleeve your holes w/ sections of PVC or fiberglass tube.

 

[mac83]

Well just got done building my outboard stand to keep it on while I'm redoing the transom. Ill post some pics tomorrow. Ran into a bit of a roadblock. I dont have the right part to pull the engine. Looks like I need a special bracket to get this old Johnson off the boat. Anyone know where I can find the lifting ring I need. I've searched on the internet but see a bunch of differant ones that dont look like they would work. Looks like I have to lift the 235hp engine from 3 threaded bolts on the top of the flywheel. Should I just make a welded bracket? I just am not sure on what type of bolt to use if I make the bracket. I want to make sure they strength of the bolt will be enough to lift the 500 lb motor. Someone help me. Thanks so much.

 

[gw204]

Go to your local Autozone and rent a harmonic balancer puller.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 55524_0_0_

All you really will use is the yoke. Then go buy some bolts to thread into the flywheel (sorry, I forget what size they are) and a big eye bolt at your local hardware store. The puller bolts that come with the kit aren't the right size, so don't try to use them. The big eye bolt goes in the center.

 

[richie rich]

The bolts may even be a fine thread...don't force a standard coarse thread if it won't go...get both...there's only a few of them needed so its not alot of money to cover your bases. Use grade 5 bolts at a minimum..(3 lines on the head) Grade 8 are normally used on things like engine stands..( 6 lines)

Maybe you can borrow someones puller instead of buying...thats a nice trick actually....but if you have a way of making your own plate (at least 1/2 inch thick...) you can use that as well

 

[gw204]

Definitely fine thread. I still have the ones I used at the house. Let me see if I can dig 'em up and put a thread gauge on 'em.

 

[mac83]

I have not posted in a long time. Since my last post, I've taken the outboard off, made a stand for it, and removed a rotten transom. Here is my progress along the way.

Here is a motor lifting eye that my dad and I fabricated for my Johnson 2335HP. I can't believe how much these things are to buy and not half as good as the one I made.

This a motor stand that my brother and I put together. Not great but it works. SOLID AS A ROCK!

One of the main reasons I decided to pull the engine and see what I've got under that dreaded aluminum piece.

After pulling the aluminum piece, I decided to cut back the top of the transom like a fellow member did to see what he was working with. NOT GOOD!

I can't believe how much wasn't there. Both sides were like this.

Just like another member, I took the advice and got this out in one piece. I did have to unscrew the cap to get the back piece off.

At the grind...it never ends!

Brother at the grind.

Water sitting at the bottom of the transom. It's amazing how much water that wood can hold.

Last ply left before we get to just glass. The semetrical holes that were drilled; were those holes put there when they were pressing the (3) boards together. Did they bond them with screw clamps?

Alot of sanding and I'll be ready to start piecing together the new transom. Am I correct in that the transom is three pieces of 3/4inch marine plywood?

This was the largest piece I could get out. You can definatly tell it is rotted.

I'll keep everyone posted on the progress. I was starting to feel defeated with this boat. My buddy offerred to sell me his boat and I really thought about it but after today, I'm going to keep on keepin on! HAHA. At least I will have a much better built boat than you can buy and I know every part of the boat is in GREAT shape.

 

[richie rich]

You've got lots of nasty grinding still left to do on the hull, getting down to clean, smooth glass is a key for good bonding......but you've come a long way even with the time off :goodjob .....all that rotted stuff is gone...get a bunch of 25 or 40 grit discs and go nuts until the dirty work is done...just get it out of the way.......then take a break to rejuvinate....then the rebuilding stuff can take place and is alot more fun......keep pressing on!!

 

[mac83]

Thanks for the advice... I really appreciate it. I'll keep it up.

 

[gw204]

UGH...geez I hate grinding. It's the worst. :cry:

Nice job! :goodjob

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Before you start grinding the heavy woven roven try lifting it from one end and pull using an old thick spatula or a chizel, you'll be surprised how easy will come apart. Ugh, old polyester...........

 

[mac83]

I need some advice guys. I've been ordering most of my supplies from boat builder central in vero beach, fl. I'm at the point where I need to get some marine plywood. I don't know if I should just buy locally (save about $10/sheet) or buy what boat builder central is recommending to me and pay around $100 for freight shipping. The are recommending:
http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/p ... =MERBS6566

They have been very helpful and honest with everything I have asked them. Just so y'all know, that isnt the most expensive marine plywood they offer. My concern is with buying locally, I really don't know how good the plywood is. Should I be concerned?

Thanks for everyones input.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I also bought/buy my supplies from them for my Formula restoration, but the plywood i bought local( i bought 1088BS meranti) just because it did not pay for me to get it delivered from them and Shine understands that, besides, i have access through my business to buy pretty cheap all kinds of plywood, if i was local i would gladly buy from them though. Their help is second to none.