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That was the reason I swapped mine out. The inexperienced detailer who did my boat hit the OEM ones with the buffer and spun the navy off, revealing the gold behind it.

Whaler has, for years, advised against using roller trailers for their hulls. They must know something, or have seen a multitude of claims. Personal preference is not to add another 24 or 48 things that require maintenance, but I know you NE folks find them easier to launch and load from...

I bought the ones on eBay that were a dead ringer for the OEM ones that aren't produced anymore, with one minor exception - they are about 1/8" shorter. Polished out most of the ghosting and the rest faded over time. The eBay seller offers them in both black/gold and navy/gold. I went navy.

I don't love soft scrub on the deck but some swear by it. I use Clorox clean up and you literally can see the mildew disappear before your eyes....

Call these guys....if you are coming down to get the boat you will drive right past them. https://www.diamondmarine.net/default.asp?page=xNewInventoryDetail&id=5418775&p=2&s=Year&d=D&t=new&vt=cargo%20trailer&fr=xNewInventory

Maybe I missed it but I don't see brakes on your list. If you are doing both axles you could be looking at another $800-1200 depending on whether you do Dacromet or SS. Given what your time is worth, plus axles being out of stock, plus the few hundred that trailer will bring on trade, are you...

Ancho 52-16 truck blade. You may have to move the bracket over. I’ve purchased them with and without the bracket. Seems like you won’t know what you are getting until the package shows up.

Maybe a 258 Journey? Plenty of them around with twin F150s.

That powering steering box in the console is the trim tab pump. It's not connected at all to your hydraulic steering. You likely have a leak somewhere. Open the round cap on the top of the helm and top off the fluid. See if that brings your steering back.

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can convert it from fixed to tilt without replacing the helm. I can't find any part numbers for a conversion kit, either.

Why Why Why do they use a side mount binnacle? I'm 6'3"....at running speeds the throttle is too low to comfortably run the boat standing up. That's why I sold my 205 less than two months after I bought it.

Don't be surprised if the Adventure returns based on the new 215 Freedom/Fisherman hull.

Pretty sure that era 192 has a poly tank, not aluminum, which is why GW didn't leave a panel to remove. The access panels are to get to the sending unit and hoses. The boat is definitely not worthless.... I don't think you have a stringer issue...you may have an issue where the deck is just...

The hardtop, box and frame is closer to 400. When I owned a 226 with an HPDI, I had to get it scaled....with half tank of fuel it came in at 6300 on the trailer. So you are guesttimate of 6500 is pretty close. The EcoDiesel 1500 is a beast. Should be a nice setup.

Yes but where is your lower unit? For those of you that saw my thread over on THT, I too am now a proponent of replacing the "chinabombs" with Goodyear Endurance, or - as another option - Carlisle Radial Trails in LR D. I went back with chinabombs again because Tredit honored their warranty...

Don't replace the guages. You have a good setup. They can be repaired. Remove them and send them to gaugesaver.com They are the real deal. $75 and your gauges will come back good as new. I've used them on 2 different occasions. Worth every penny. www.gaugesaver.com

232 is a 9.5' beam. So, doubtful that's the case. I could see an updated 228 based on the newer 235 Freedom/Fisherman hull design. Considering the Tournament/Fisherman/Seafarer all shared the same bottom, it makes sense.

This is reality. The more interesting thing is when does GW get paid for the boat? Or, when does the dealer start paying floorplan? When the boat hits his/her yard? Or when the motor(s) show up and it's actually saleable.

Last time I bought one, the adapter was in the package, along with the screw and a nut.

If the arms are OK, just replace the blade assembly and go boating. Anco 52-16 or equivalent is what you will need. It's considered a "truck blade".