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Not sure jbloom is still active here. This post is over 3 years old and his latest activity on the forum was 2 years ago.

My blue is for cruise and dockside, didn't do it for fishing. Here's what I'm using. Drain plug light replaces garboard flange. Didn't want any more holes through transom, so I went this route. Drain plug light came from BoatPlugLight.com

Mine were to far gone to even consider removal and the washer. Ended up just recovering.

Only thing I've done as far as cockpit lighting, is change out the bulbs to blue LED on the steps. Here's both cockpit and the drain plug lights on while we were dockside down in the Keys.

If your panel is up on the dash like SkunkBoat's, I can see the issue with the blue lights at night. Nice addition with the dimmer. Where mine is down low beside me, I should be in better shape.

Only thing I use my fresh water tank for is a rinse off after sandbar hopping. Nice to rinse off saltwater. Rest of the time it stays empty. Mine is removable once floors are up.

Almost equal square footage in the cockpit. Gulfstream has 56 sf and Journey has 55 sf. Gulfstream is the heavier and wider of the 2, which will help with ride. No replacement for displacement, so they say. Journey is 1'4" longer along centerline length so not a big difference there. Was just...

Thanks for the Dremel tip. As I'm assembling and putting ends on, I'll be using corrosion guard on all connections, it's messy, but piece of mind. I've got a little over $1100 in my panel as a reference to your quote, which includes the back-lit Grady-White logo, which of course is extra.

After talking with SkunkBoat on the phone, (Thank you), I'm taking a different line of thought. My molex connectors appear to be good on the panel side as far as corrosion is concerned, I'll check the boat side, but would think it will be the same. I will put electronic corrosion guard on the...

They didn't offer and I didn't ask. That would be a New Wire question.

Unfortunately no. New Wire disassembled my old panel to use it at a template. I have the wiring diagram in owners manual to go by.

All my wires came through the molex, I had no loose ends going to panel. Sent you a PM.

Correct. I removed the old panel and unplugged the molex connectors. The new panel is just bare wire ends, no molex. The new panel has all grounds running through each switch and ending with a single black. The old wire bundles were similar, but since I have two bundles and possibly the...

12 AWG feeding the panel.

Removed screws, unplugged molex connectors and hand carried it to New Wire. They are in Charleston SC, so I was there already, personally delivered to them.

I didn't realize I had them until I removed my panel. It was buried behind the side console. New Wire gave me a second set of labels to put on the boat side wiring as I'm finding the circuits.

Yep,,, I have one ready to go. Just have to make time to work on the boat.

Those are the red/black coming through the molex from the boat side of the existing harness?

Thank you my friend!! Already looking at the Ancor heat shrink snap connectors. Makes perfect sense to keep the hot ends shielded when working on the panel.

Thank you! I posted my last reply before I saw your post. Going direct seems to be the cleaner option at this point.