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I should add... UNLESS your lower unit has a second set of intakes at the nose cone. I don't think it does - but double check. IF that's the case, tape those nose cone inlets.

You need to run the engine to get flow through the engine when using muffs. It should work perfectly, then. Have been doing it this way for many decades on my own stuff... and hundreds and hundreds and hundreds that come through the shop.

It's not all that uncommon to see issues like this - a sporadic/erroneous code. Everythign now-a-days is so voltage sensitive (sometimes to a fault) that it just takes one little dip of V to set things off. Flaky connections... dirty connections... etc, etc, etc. All of this plays a role into...

In theory, good idea. In reality... not the best. Hydrogren gas... bad for the batteries (harder bouncing/pounding). PLUS the $$$ for large cables... which will likely need to be larger than current... and the length of the cables... and the time/labor to do this....... there are much better...

There would have to be A LOT of extra weight to make a "healthy" trailer squat down like that. From the picture, it looks as if the boat isn't centered on the trailer - note the bunks vs lifting strake. I'm not sure if it's enough to make the difference - but center it up and recheck to be...

Oh, I see - it's studded hinge. Thanks for the picture. As noted above, try Southco or Gemlux - but also as noted, it might be easier/quicker to contact your local Grady dealer. If needed, switching to a thru-bolt design will probably be easily done, as well.

I'm not sure what you're asking, either. All bolts have threads. Hinges can pretty much use whatever type of hardware someone wants to use - hinges simply have holes in them. A better description or pictures would help.

I think this all comes down to how much fun you want to have with it :) Careful use of a blow torch or heat gun will soften it enough where you can collapse it in on itself... making it skinnier top-to-bottom. Other than that, yes any cutting tool would work. Downside to something like a...

Why, because I tried to help (based on what you wrote) but you completely dismissed it? And then when I explained that maybe it's simply the "way" you wrote what you did that led me to try and help in the manner I did, you couldn't even see things from another's point of view? Whatever -...

Well, you must have something different in your head than what you wrote. We can only respond based on what you write. You started by asking about installation (it's even in your title) and then based on saying "looks like there is only one place they can be installed"... which reads as though...

Ugh. OK, nevermind. Tried to help - guess it's not wanted. A hull like your boat is a hull like thousands and thousands and thousands of others. It's all the same in the end.

When you say "experience", what exactly are you looking for? Self levelling tabs, whether Bennett or Nauticus have been aroudn for a long time and I've used them on lots of boats. They do exactly what they say - the fact that you have a "Spirit" really doesn't make difference here. It's just...

Hi Steve - you "may" find info like this in an owner's manual that you can download from GW's site. But the reality is that the boat is about 35 years old and has had who-knows-how-many owners that could have changed things who-knows-how-many times. Your best bet is to just keep the detective...

I haven't done it on that particular hull, but have done it numerous times. What specifically are you wondering about? It looks like a pretty straight forward job from what I can see. What is your port/stbd mounting distance for the hinge compared to the hinge dimension? You can cut/rebend...

No, not a stupid question at all. Nope, nothing wrong with doing that.

I forget where I heard this years ago... maybe I called a winch manufacturer. But the number that sticks in my head is that the winch capacity should be roughly 1/3 that of the boat weight. Best thing to do... call a winch manufacturer and talk to them directly.

As noted, switches should NOT be energized/not energized based on the key switch. You wouldn't want that. -- How would you turn your anchor light on when you're anchored over night? -- What if you needed to quickly use the horn? -- Those are just two examples of why your thought process...

I've been getting knocked off of wifi and my post, and subsequent edit above, may seem out of place because of that... To better clarify... the dash switch supplies thie power to the pump. If flipping the dash switch off does NOT turn the pump off, then the switch must be bad. In other words...

Yes, dash switch. Edit: If it wasn't clear from my first post... Based on his info provided, it has to be that.

Airbound/number of pumps/etc... that's a discussion for later. According to your first post, the only way you can get the pumps (yes, that's odd to have two pumps for such a small system) to turn off is to pull the fuse. With the info at hand, the most likely culprit is a failed switch.