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Can you be more specific as to what you're looking for? Is this to repalce the one you already have, for example?

There are tons of options for these at local marine retailers and even online. All depends on exactly what you want... rungs, overall size, quality of SS, etc, etc.

You said you ran 14g because that's what the pump came with... but did you verify that 14g is sufficient based on the total run of wire you installed? You may need 12g to prevent the wire from possibly overheating and causing a fire. I didn't look it up - but it's worthwhile for you to do so...

I have an '82 Offshore. I don't have anything like that onboard - but I'm not the original owner, either. HOWEVER... it looks like it would be a drawer pull handle or an interior hatch door kind of thing.

What model year boat do you have?

Is that a "brand"? What made you want that brand? Is it a good brand?

Spring of replacements... sometimes it feels like it never stops!

Hi Lum. Something to keep in mind is that each one of those "repairs" is going to be three times bigger than what you think. It always is. For the two hatches... just make them out of HDPE and be done with it. For the pulpit, if you can't find a good used one (will be tough), repair it. Or...

What quantity of fuel was in the VST when you drained it? We're still just kind of guessing on some of this - still need to know exactly what model you have. You originally said the primer button turned on a pump... but now it doesn't?

Try running the engine and do the same test. What did the impeller and housing look like when you replaced it?

It could be from a repair... but chances are it's simply because the owner had wanted more "grip" In the cockpit to keep from slipping.

All that matters is the poundage and the compressed/extended length. 10mm ball stud is the most common - but you can measure to double check. Cheapie ones will rust out in a year or two.

I was only guessing as that is a commonly used manufacturer in this business. Look at the parts on your boat for the manufacturer.

The cross linked part is a moot point. But you and I are saying the same thing. Glue doesn't work. However, that's a CYA answer from a manufacturer. While I haven't had a need to do this, one can "burn in" a new fitting. But the tool to do it is relatively cost prohibitive. But a...

Hard to say without personally owning it :) Is it inside the tank?

What brand is it? Maybe Scandvik? There should be info somewhere on the accessory.

Old fuse/breaker... corroded wiring/connections... jammed up motor (either bad motor or physically jammed with crap)

PronNautic is excellent - one of the best chargers out there without being too expensive. Best practice is to use a 4-bank charger. Using a 2-bank is "OK", but you'll get better charging and the batteries will last longer when the charger monitors and charges them individually. It's not a...

No, this is not correct. Glue... no, HDPE doesn't take to glue very well. This has nothing to do with Moeller - all plastic tanks are made of HDPE. Neoprene gaskets work well, though. Just like the fuel sender that is screwed in on hundreds of thousands of boat gas tanks.

It's just fibeglass/gelcoat, right? Sure - paint it (after you fix the crack). Something like Pettit Easypoxy.