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Every prop has it's pros/cons and will behave differently for different boats. I'm shocked the eco worked better with a larger diameter than the Solas. Initially I thought the issue was ventilation, so I thought the larger diameter would make it worse. It didn't because it was a 'traction" issue...

I started out with Solas (Suzuki) L3 Plus 15 ⅝ x 23 props. Traction was awful. I could only get them to bite if the engines were 100% tucked in. I could only slightly trim out before they would lose bite unless I was +35 mph. Sent them back to Ken at Prop Gods. He suggested Mercury Eco Enertia -...

Are those Hondas you are considering? Yamaha 4 cylinder 200's aren't too much heavier than 2 strokes. Even the Merc v6 weighs about the same, but are impossible to attain. 4 cylinder zukes are about 50 lbs heavier than the Yamahas. The v6 Honda 200 is a porker - about 150-160 lbs over the Yamahas.

The Gulf stream is 3 in narrower and 400 lb less than your boat. It runs very well with 150 Yamahas. Taking that into consideration and the power that the 150 Merc puts out, I think it'll get the job done reasonably well. The Merc 150s are so light I doubt you'll need to make an adjustment on...

The older Islanders were lighter according to GW. The reason doesn't make sense to me, but they claimed the newer models had more options contributing to the weight. I find it hard to believe options added 1k lbs, but that's their story. Based on the weight of ours I'm confident the 2003 - 2005...

Engine definitely needs to be lower 1-2 holes.

S = single engine D = dual - twins For whatever reason that is the nomenclature NADA likes to use.

Most cut an access hole. Some have claimed to have paid others who got it done without cutting a hole, but no one has posted how to pull it off. I haven't seen the 282 first hand, but would imagine it is similar to the Islander. I've kicked around a couple ideas. One was a battery or air...

Found him!

Skunk. From what you are describing, the GW wiring diagram, and what I'm seeing in the bilge, you are spot on. Thank you. FWIW, when the dealer started the engines on muffs, they had each switch set to "both." Previously with the f150's the port switch was set to "2" and the starboard to "1"...

My Dad waiting for the truck: Only 2 hours on the engines. 4k rpm's = 30 mph @ 2.1-2.3 mpg! I'm now a fool for digital controls!

Would I still be able to set the engines up like the f150's were, or would I need to buy the parts you mentioned? Sorry for the dumb questions. Some of this I have confidence in, but I want to make certain I don't make an expensive mistake.

I was reading through the factory manual last night. To my surprise the only way it shows to wire the engines is directly to the batteries. I'm not saying the factory GW set up is wrong, but Suzuki approves and instructs wiring directly to the battery. I also came across this. I'm not familiar...

Reading and comprehension skills are not a prerequisite to attain THT membership. I'm often facinated as to what posseses people to latch onto or fabricate specific details that at times have nothing to do with the topic. I double-dog-dare you to start an "Evinrude is superior to everything"...

It isn't much worse than the factory wiring, but it could use a little work. Since it looks like a need to reroute a few things I'll throw some OCD at it for you. ;)

I'm fairly certain that's how the f150's were set up. They were definitely not set up like they are now. Aside from having power to the tilt units, what other advantage would there be to have them set up as is now?

Yes, the 2 black batteries are in parallel. Looking at the engine factory leads again, it appears they are long enough to reach the switches. I looked at the GW wiring diagram. It would be easy enough to run the positive lead to the battery switches. I think get what you are saying about the...

Skunk, looking at your 1st comment on the thread - that is exactly the issue. Looks like the leads for these engines is shorter or were not extended to go to the switches. Do you have longer factory leads to go to the switch or is there some type of extension?

Here is a different angle. You can see the wake-up wire on the left battery. They only have 1 for both engines.

If you look at the middle battery you will see a heavy gage black wire with red at the end going to positive. Another line just like it with a shiny black end is on negative. The left battery is the same.